Hobbywing esc thermal proctection

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Mopsik_Klopsik

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Poland, Zielona Góra
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton EXB
Is it safe to switch hobbywing esc thermal proctection to 125C/257F. I reckon this will allow me to discharge a single pack without the risk of hitting thermal cutoff.

escprogr.webp
 
Should come that way default IMO. It’s an estimate based on internal material resistance. Your IR temp gun on the center or hottest capacitor after bashing is the best judge of consistent temp.

I have a 4 year old max8v3 that I use for 6 and 10 hour enduro races that’s hit 257* thermal cut dozens of times because of motor or drivetrain bearing seizures. Still going strong. 👍🏼

Don’t let scared people who overanalyze things dictate your fun. This isn’t castle cremations 🔥
 
Your IR temp gun on the center or hottest capacitor after bashing is the best judge of consistent temp.
Hmm never checked the caps, always the heatsink. Gonna need to try that and see how it compares.
My max10 spent 2 weeks hitting thermal before I stuffed a larger esc in. Its still going strong today. The thermal limits and max current protection seems to be set reasonably well for the max series.
If your hitting thermal, really should fix the problem rather than increase temp limit. Bigger esc, lighter finger, smaller pinion, ect.
 
The supplier doesn’t want warranty claims for negligence, can’t disagree with them being extremely conservative.

Any of you geniuses want to answer why a company would even provide that parameter option above and beyond default??
 
The supplier doesn’t want warranty claims for negligence, can’t disagree with them being extremely conservative.

Any of you geniuses want to answer why a company would even provide that parameter option above and beyond default??
Fair point. First time I was called a genius today, so thanks.

I am curious about those 6 and 10 hour enduro races though. Are they official or backyard type racing?
 
Sounds like 125 degrees at your own risk.

Another snippet from Hobbywing support page (last updated 6 years ago). My emphasis on immediately.

"If the ESC temperature (measured from outside at the hottest position) is over 85 degree (for low-cost thermal instrument with low accuracy) or 90 degrees (for high-cost thermal instrument with high accuracy), or the motor temperature is over 90 degree or 100 degree, your system configuration must be changed immediately that a load of vehicle is too heavy for your ESC or motor."
 
Fair point. First time I was called a genius today, so thanks.

I am curious about those 6 and 10 hour enduro races though. Are they official or backyard type racing?
Typical endurance races held at local indoor or outdoor owned tracks, multiple drivers and whatever team accomplishes the most laps in X hours wins. Swap packs/drivers/service in pit work areas

Ask around your local facebook group, they're not well advertised so the professionals don't overrun.

Let's not confuse 90-100 Celsius with Fahrenheit, I don't speed or drag my cars unless the motor temp is prepped above 140F for thermal efficiency. The speed runners only tell you about heating up Lipos, the rest of the electronics are no different.
 
Smaller pinion isn't an option. I once went down by 2 teeth, car was too slow and the esc cut off same way as before. Currently running 20t ( 4985 1650kv motor ).
 
Turning the punch down will help. If you turned the timming up definitely set that back to stock. If you hard on your brakes all the time, that is worse than full throttle all the time. Over use of the brakes will crank the heat up real fast. Have a long talk with that trigger 👉 finger he is out of control 😛😜🤪😝
And going to hit your pocket🤑
 
I'll try to make i work, but yes, it's probably my driving style that's gonna have to change... at least a tad.
Try avoiding hitting the brakes into every turn. Let the rc slow itself down, maybe off the throttle a little sooner.
You might have more fun having to think ahead,like driving a boat no brakes. Drifting is fun 😁 in the dirt. Look Mom no brakes🤪
 
It should be adjustable, it is on the g2 as well as the earlier versions of the other max esc's.
Timing increases top end power/rpm at the expense of lower end power to some degree. But draws a ton of extra power doing so. Drop timing to zero.
Can drop brake max % too, no point in having more braking ability than the tires can handle. And having the brake force up high takes more power.
 
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