Kraton Hobbywing Max 6

[ParkRacing]

Does anyone run the Max 6 in their Kraton? Fitment, thoughts, anything?
I have i lightly used Max 8 in there and i think it is already fried and am a little miffed!
Running 6s, leopard 1480kv 4092, never wet never overheated never driven too hard with very experienced user.

Any experience with Hobbywing service?

 

[jonUF02]

Pay attention to the motor support specs of the Max6 or Max5. Max6 only supports up to 1500kv on 6s, so you should be in spec with that motor. If you're burning up the ESC, then you need to gear down, you're pulling too many amps. That's why I love the data logging of the Castle MMX, helped me to figure out optimal gearing without pulling too many amps and overheating. Max6 is only rated at 160amp vs. 150amp on the Max8 you have, so depending on gearing you may be surpassing that as well.

 

[Vanning]

Love the MMX.... I could not hurt it in a Kraton. I used the data logging always to see how things looked. Adding caps is good in a heavy RC also. I added a cap pack to my Kraton with a MMX. The Max 8 says to add caps if over a certain weight. I forget what that number was. It cuts down on the back voltage that fries the fets in the ESC. Real good batteries help stop voltage sags also. Castle probably uses high quality fets and they have been programming their ESC's to cut back if it sees a certain criteria. For a while....speed runners were hating that. But for bashers.... it's great. Getting geared correctly is obviously key also.

Also.... isn't Hobbywing the same stuff you get stock in a Kraton ? Looks like the same stuff only a bunch nicer looking.

Looked at my Max8 directions. They say to add cap packs of running 6S and 15 pounds. I like the Max 8 combo in my Tekno....but it's 4S, light weight. I decided no caps needed. Just set and forget.

 

[ParkRacing]

Pay attention to the motor support specs of the Max6 or Max5. Max6 only supports up to 1500kv on 6s, so you should be in spec with that motor. If you're burning up the ESC, then you need to gear down, you're pulling too many amps. That's why I love the data logging of the Castle MMX, helped me to figure out optimal gearing without pulling too many amps and overheating. Max6 is only rated at 160amp vs. 150amp on the Max8 you have, so depending on gearing you may be surpassing that as well.

Thanks for the input. I already installed the max 6 today and am loving it. Frying the max 8 was completely my fault. I run the leopard 4292 1480 kv motor, so the actual size of the motor exceeded the esc's capibility. I didn't look into that before installing the motor.

Love the MMX.... I could not hurt it in a Kraton. I used the data logging always to see how things looked. Adding caps is good in a heavy RC also. I added a cap pack to my Kraton with a MMX. The Max 8 says to add caps if over a certain weight. I forget what that number was. It cuts down on the back voltage that fries the fets in the ESC. Real good batteries help stop voltage sags also. Castle probably uses high quality fets and they have been programming their ESC's to cut back if it sees a certain criteria. For a while....speed runners were hating that. But for bashers.... it's great. Getting geared correctly is obviously key also.

Also.... isn't Hobbywing the same stuff you get stock in a Kraton ? Looks like the same stuff only a bunch nicer looking.

Looked at my Max8 directions. They say to add cap packs of running 6S and 15 pounds. I like the Max 8 combo in my Tekno....but it's 4S, light weight. I decided no caps needed. Just set and forget.

Good to hear from you Vanning!
I realised after frying it and reading the directions i exceeded motor size, i have the same leopard you do the 4292 1480kv. I installed the caps right from the beginning just asking too much from the esc...
I do have a question for you, i am running 17/50 gearing and the thing gets to 200 degrees fairly quickly, i was hopeing with this motor heat wouldn't be an issue with tge sheer size and low kv of this motor, am i just expecting too much of it? I realize the truggy is a heavy beast!

 

[jonUF02]

The data logging is a huge help when fighting heat issues, would be nice if they had it, but ultimately the answer is drop a tooth or two on the pinion and test again.

 

[ParkRacing]

The wire end of the motor is getting the hottest, is this a sign of bad internal soldering, do I need to pull the motor apart? Vanning you said in an old post you run 20/50, no issues with this motor, I overheat quickly with 17/50?
I am running the Castle 6.5 connectors and I know you didn't like those but I still can't imagine those are the issue? I have a Toro 1550kv 4274 motor, I will try that with the same gearing and report results, then I will know if the issue lies elsewhere.
Please advise...

Results are in...
10 degrees less running smaller Toro motor with same gearing.

 

[Vanning]

Thanks for the input. I already installed the max 6 today and am loving it. Frying the max 8 was completely my fault. I run the leopard 4292 1480 kv motor, so the actual size of the motor exceeded the esc's capibility. I didn't look into that before installing the motor.


Good to hear from you Vanning!
I realised after frying it and reading the directions i exceeded motor size, i have the same leopard you do the 4292 1480kv. I installed the caps right from the beginning just asking too much from the esc...
I do have a question for you, i am running 17/50 gearing and the thing gets to 200 degrees fairly quickly, i was hopeing with this motor heat wouldn't be an issue with tge sheer size and low kv of this motor, am i just expecting too much of it? I realize the truggy is a heavy beast!

View attachment 11290

You should be running pretty cool. I had a 20 tooth and stock spur in my Kraton. If you get hot real fast...something ain't right. Mine ran ran 130-140 no fan but some days it could get hot. For example... My new rigs heat kept climbing on a hot humid day with no fan...the heat just kept going up as my run time went up. May be geared a tad hot. I've been using telemetry. It reached 170 by the end. A few days later, it was cooler outside, I ran my fan and the motor ran 100 F all day. So that goes to show you what can go on. And sometimes you just need a fan. These WTF fans are amazing. If you are getting super hot fast...something is causing that. Too many amps are getting used.

 

[ParkRacing]

You changed the spur size ? I lost my chart on gear ratio. You are probably geared wrong. You should be running pretty cool but you may be running for a long extended time with 6s and low KV. Let me figure out the difference. I had a 20 tooth and stock spur in my Kraton. If you get hot real fast...something ain't right. Mine ran ran 130-140 no fan but some days it could get hot. For example... My new rigs heat kept climbing on a hot humid day with no fan...the heat just kept going up as my run time went up. I've been using telemetry. It reached 170 by the end. A few days later, it was cooler outside, I ran my fan and the motor ran 100 F all day. So that goes to show you what can go on. I have not figured out your gear ratio but I'm guessing it's on the hot side. And sometimes you just need a fan. These WTF fans are amazing. I turn it on if needed. Hope all is well with you bud. Always good to keep in touch.

I did this motor following your lead because of your great results! I do remember you having this problem with your 1700 kv tho!
I have a 4800 mah 6s and I don't even go thru one charge before it is way overheating?
Solder quwalith is good.
The motor quality can be so inconsistent. Can I take it apart and repair something?

I did this motor following your lead because of your great results! I do remember you having this problem with your 1700 kv tho!
I have a 4800 mah 6s and I don't even go thru one charge before it is way overheating?
Solder quwalith is good.
The motor quality can be so inconsistent. Can I take it apart and repair something?

Solder quality..... lol
Keep going down on gearing and still hot

You should be running pretty cool. I had a 20 tooth and stock spur in my Kraton. If you get hot real fast...something ain't right. Mine ran ran 130-140 no fan but some days it could get hot. For example... My new rigs heat kept climbing on a hot humid day with no fan...the heat just kept going up as my run time went up. May be geared a tad hot. I've been using telemetry. It reached 170 by the end. A few days later, it was cooler outside, I ran my fan and the motor ran 100 F all day. So that goes to show you what can go on. And sometimes you just need a fan. These WTF fans are amazing. If you are getting super hot fast...something is causing that. Too many amps are getting used.

Awesome rig!
Love Tekno stuff!

 

[Vanning]

I did have an issue at first... turned out to be the solder on my Castle connectors. I was using a soldering iron to put them on.... no good. I have to use a torch to install them. So I went back to XT90....problem solved. My good results came from MMX and the big Leopard 1750Kv. So.... at the time I was using 20/50, MMX, 1750kv Leopard and a MaxAmp battery. Killer setup. Beast. The issue I had at first...temps would shoot up fast. Changed connectors...problem solved.

 

[ParkRacing]

I did have an issue at first... turned out to be the Castle connectors. I was using a soldering iron to put them on.... no good. I have to use a torch to install them. So I went back to XT90....problem solved. My good results came from MMX and the big Leopard 1750Kv. So.... at the time I was using 20/50, MMX, 1750kv Leopard and a MaxAmp battery. Killer setup. Beast

Ok
I will change out connectors to xt90 and report back. Just suprised Castle would have a poor product for big systems...

 

[Vanning]

Was my solder job... not the connector. I wasn't getting enough heat. Also... the battery's sometimes come tinned using cheap solder. When you go to solder...that cheap solder in the wire never melts. So it's like a cold joint with high resistance. Snip a little of the new wire off before soldering. Don't move the connector and wire before it cools. Also... all you have is the same motor as I did... so it's not apples to apples. However...I can only say...it sounds like bad solder joints. It's all I have experienced in the past. I knew my setup was good so getting hot fast made me go looking. I knew I switched to castle connectors right when I had issues. So.... I eliminated them first. Retested...ran normal again. Someone said you need a pen torch to get those on better. I just ditched them. Never looked back. A cold solder joint will fry an ESC. I installed a Max8 in my new rig...I told you I would try Hobbywing, I think the entire package I received is nice. Simple to use.

What were you running ? Amax 8 with the big Leopard motor I had ? It says to be under 2400kv on 6S but also says 4274 size motor. Not sure if that matters.

 

[ParkRacing]

Was my solder job... not the connector. I wasn't getting enough heat. Also... the battery's sometimes come tinned using cheap solder. When you go to solder...that cheap solder in the wire never melts. So it's like a cold joint with high resistance. Snip a little of the new wire off before soldering. Don't move the connector and wire before it cools. Also... all you have is the same motor as I did... so it's not apples to apples. However...I can only say...it sounds like bad solder joints. It's all I have experienced in the past. I knew my setup was good so getting hot fast made me go looking. I knew I switched to castle connectors right when I had issues. So.... I eliminated them first. Retested...ran normal again. Someone said you need a pen torch to get those on better. I just ditched them. Never looked back. A cold solder joint will fry an ESC. I installed a Max8 in my new rig...I told you I would try Hobbywing, I think the entire package I received is nice. Simple to use.

What were you running ? Amax 8 with the big Leopard motor I had ? It says to be under 2400kv on 6S but also says 4274 size motor. Not sure if that matters.

Yeah I just toasted the Max 8, didn't pay attention to the motor requirements and probably the bad connectors. I installed a max 6 this weekend and like it, it is the same thing it can just handle more power, but still chasing the heat issues. Looking forward to using the xt90.

 

[Vanning]

Nice Park... keep me posted. Hope it gets figured out. So the Max 6 is geared more to a 6s system? I would definitely proceed with caution on solder. The Xt90's are much easier to solder with shiny connections and I just prefer them. I ran them in my 8S rig but had the batteries split 4S 4S. They handle more than advertised.

 

[ParkRacing]

Nice Park... keep me posted. Hope it gets figured out. So the Max 6 is geared more to a 6s system? I would definitely proceed with caution on solder. The Xt90's are much easier to solder with shiny connections and I just prefer them. I ran them in my 8S rig but had the batteries split 4S 4S. They handle more than advertised.

Very good.
Yes the max 6 will run 8s and a bigger motor so it will be under its capibilities this time..

 

[jjl5590]

Pay attention to the motor support specs of the Max6 or Max5. Max6 only supports up to 1500kv on 6s, so you should be in spec with that motor. If you're burning up the ESC, then you need to gear down, you're pulling too many amps. That's why I love the data logging of the Castle MMX, helped me to figure out optimal gearing without pulling too many amps and overheating. Max6 is only rated at 160amp vs. 150amp on the Max8 you have, so depending on gearing you may be surpassing that as well.

I run a 2140kv 4092 with my Max 6 with no issues