Hobbywing Max10 SCT Issues (Video)

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You can see how it did in my footage from this weekend in my stampede:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...-parks-and-a-new-to-me-grass-bmx-track.10966/

Somewhere near the end of the "stampede grass bmx" video, I didn't show the truck, but you could hear it as I put my foot to it to keep it from moving. Having a center diff, it spun the front tires. Then I stepped on it to put pressure on all 4 and pulled the throttle. It hummed for a second, then nothing. Took my foot off, gave it throttle and it was fine.

It does have an odd chatter to it, but the stampede always had that regardless of the system in it. I attribute that to the plastic chassis echoing amplifying all the sound from the motor/center shaft/spur and it's a bit noisier because when I busted the shaft on the 3800kv I took out, it nicked up a few of the teeth of the spur. I didn't replace it. So, between that, the amplified noise from the chassis and the MIP's... it chatters.
 
I usually bust something before I finish a battery so I really don't know, lol.
Ain’t that the truth... ah don’t feel bad I beat the piss out of mine too, I basically have a lead finger and full send without regret or thought.
 
So I made a video compilation of the last two times I ran the truck with the 18t pinion. I couldn't take the stuttering on the start and it also "stalled" in the mulch going uphill. Jump at the end for effect, lol.

 
And I was going full throttle from a stop. Bunch of chatter and then off it went. Did not care for that at all. Back to the 15t.
 
You drive too slow. Brushless truck, move!!!

Jokes aside, I don’t get what all the fuss is about. I guess it’s because I’m used to harsh cogging? This wouldn’t bother me at all. I don’t try to go slow with sensorless systems or give low throttle off starts, they’re not made for that.

You think this is bad you should see how the old mamba monsters were in 2009 with the first few firmwares.
 
I mean clearly the esc is defective, send it back. But really I don’t see why it’d bother that much. From what I can tell it only does it when the truck is stationary and with brushless trucks you don’t really stop too many times if you’re bashing. If you do I’d grab a sensored combo.
 
You drive too slow. Brushless truck, move!!!

Jokes aside, I don’t get what all the fuss is about. I guess it’s because I’m used to harsh cogging? This wouldn’t bother me at all. I don’t try to go slow with sensorless systems or give low throttle off starts, they’re not made for that.

You think this is bad you should see how the old mamba monsters were in 2009 with the first few firmwares.

I was hammering it from a start. I'm not sure what you are talking about.
 
I was hammering it from a start. I'm not sure what you are talking about.
Is your punch set down all the way then or something? Because when it stopped cogging it looked like it was moving at quarter throttle speed.

Also it stops after cogging because it’s detected overamperage. That’s what happens when stuff cogs. It’ll resume operation when it feels that the obstacle is removed or after you unplug it.

And even if you are doing full throttle, I still don’t really get why this bothers you sooo much. Yes it’s excessive compared to the modern sensorless systems but they all cog, and we all know not to start at the bottom of a jump because of said cogging. What I’m trying to say is that if you drive it like a normal sensorless truck, it’ll be no different. If you stop a lot and showcase the cogging (like I demonstrate in my revo videos) it’s obviously gonna be a little more annoying.
 
I mean clearly the esc is defective, send it back. But really I don’t see why it’d bother that much. From what I can tell it only does it when the truck is stationary and with brushless trucks you don’t really stop too many times if you’re bashing. If you do I’d grab a sensored combo.
Is your punch set down all the way then or something? Because when it stopped cogging it looked like it was moving at quarter throttle speed.

Also it stops after cogging because it’s detected overamperage. That’s what happens when stuff cogs. It’ll resume operation when it feels that the obstacle is removed or after you unplug it.

Punch was max. My BLX100 system acted the exact same way on an 18t pinion. I'm not looking for sensored smoothness while crawling. I'm looking for it to behave like the blx185 in the 1/8 scale trucks and those don't do that.
 
Punch was max. My BLX100 system acted the exact same way on an 18t pinion. I'm not looking for sensored smoothness while crawling. I'm looking for it to behave like the blx185 in the 1/8 scale trucks and those don't do that.
Oh well then clearly it’s defective. It’s seeming like an esc on its way out. With no punch it’s not delivering close to full power upon startup and the cogging is worse than it should be.I’ve owned about 30 esc’s over the years and for the ones I had that died, they started to cog more and more as they got to the last few months of their lives till they let out the magic smoke. I’d send it back, use your videos as evidence.
 
Oh well then clearly it’s defective. It’s seeming like an esc on its way out. With no punch it’s not delivering close to full power upon startup and the cogging is worse than it should be.I’ve owned about 30 esc’s over the years and for the ones I had that died, they started to cog more and more as they got to the last few months of their lives till they let out the magic smoke. I’d send it back, use your videos as evidence.

I've already contacted them.
 
I've already contacted them.
What did they blow you off or something? That thing has no torque.

I saw you don’t want to buy another mamba x. I wouldn’t either. If I were you I’d buy a mamba max pro on eBay.. I had one, very useful for my 10th scales and lighter 8th scales and very powerful. Never used a sensored motor with it but the cogging on sensorless wasn’t bad. It’s the predecessor to the mamba x. Same capability, only difference being that the mmp isn’t waterproof. I have no problem avoiding water with my non waterproof electronics but if you do you can always just plasti dip it.

Or many try out a hobbystar esc?
 
Oh well then clearly it’s defective. It’s seeming like an esc on its way out. With no punch it’s not delivering close to full power upon startup and the cogging is worse than it should be.I’ve owned about 30 esc’s over the years and for the ones I had that died, they started to cog more and more as they got to the last few months of their lives till they let out the magic smoke. I’d send it back, use your videos as evidence.
My Max10 SCT RTR does not cog at all in my 4Pede geared 14/52 ona 3100kv 3665 brushless motor and that is less of an esc than the real Max10 SCT so I would have to agree that something is wrong.
 
This was the last correspondence with HW:

Hello,

Couple other Q's regarding the situation that are unknowns.
#1 - Has this system ever worked correctly?
#2 - If so, about how many runs did it get before this started to happen?

Assuming that this is a new system that is acting up, here is what we would suggest based on the info at hand thus far:

It never hurts to do some basic testing with a smaller pinion gear or two, even three, when shut downs, hesitations, or strange operation happens early on in a system's life span.
Often "Faster motors" mean Lower Gearing (Smaller motor Pinion) is needed on higher voltage setups.
It's common to assume a bigger pinion goes on a more powerful motor, but that is often not the case.
Over-gearing(Pinion Gear on the motor Too Big) can lead to simple shut down issues related to the battery not taking the loads being asked, or even the plugs not taking the loads.

Drivelines and gear 'mesh' topics can also come into play and make an ESC shut down or act like it's got a problem.
In either of the above topics, simple loads would make it not want to go, and hesitate badly in the times it did go.
Might also sort of feel down on power, but run "okay" for the most part sometimes.

We have seen many cases of the motor mounting screws being "too long" and driving into the motor's internals. It's worth double checking the motor mounting screws are not "too long" and shorting the motor internals. This would make it cog very badly.

If the problem suddenly came up, after it was working fine, we would suggest simply replacing the ESC and Battery power plugs with fresh ones to make sure a "Bad plug" has not caused a weak connection that makes the system not work smoothly.

If you have any additional information, or details, please share them with us. Most of the problems that are not related to the "Electronics being damaged", come down to basic mechanical topics in the vehicle, or basic connection problems in regards to solder joints or weak/fake plugs and plug adaptors.

In the end, if the conclusion is that your system is damaged or bad in some way that is making this all happen, step #1 for all product service and support starts with our "RMA Support Form" online. HobbywingDirect.com under Support.

In the notes of your form, you can reference service email #182174 to tie it to these emails.
HOBBYWING
Innovation Powered by Passion
 
This was the last correspondence with HW:

Hello,

Couple other Q's regarding the situation that are unknowns.
#1 - Has this system ever worked correctly?
#2 - If so, about how many runs did it get before this started to happen?

Assuming that this is a new system that is acting up, here is what we would suggest based on the info at hand thus far:

It never hurts to do some basic testing with a smaller pinion gear or two, even three, when shut downs, hesitations, or strange operation happens early on in a system's life span.
Often "Faster motors" mean Lower Gearing (Smaller motor Pinion) is needed on higher voltage setups.
It's common to assume a bigger pinion goes on a more powerful motor, but that is often not the case.
Over-gearing(Pinion Gear on the motor Too Big) can lead to simple shut down issues related to the battery not taking the loads being asked, or even the plugs not taking the loads.

Drivelines and gear 'mesh' topics can also come into play and make an ESC shut down or act like it's got a problem.
In either of the above topics, simple loads would make it not want to go, and hesitate badly in the times it did go.
Might also sort of feel down on power, but run "okay" for the most part sometimes.

We have seen many cases of the motor mounting screws being "too long" and driving into the motor's internals. It's worth double checking the motor mounting screws are not "too long" and shorting the motor internals. This would make it cog very badly.

If the problem suddenly came up, after it was working fine, we would suggest simply replacing the ESC and Battery power plugs with fresh ones to make sure a "Bad plug" has not caused a weak connection that makes the system not work smoothly.

If you have any additional information, or details, please share them with us. Most of the problems that are not related to the "Electronics being damaged", come down to basic mechanical topics in the vehicle, or basic connection problems in regards to solder joints or weak/fake plugs and plug adaptors.

In the end, if the conclusion is that your system is damaged or bad in some way that is making this all happen, step #1 for all product service and support starts with our "RMA Support Form" online. HobbywingDirect.com under Support.

In the notes of your form, you can reference service email #182174 to tie it to these emails.
HOBBYWING
Innovation Powered by Passion
From my experience that issue you have ain’t any of their symptoms. It’s a max 10 SCT. It shouldn’t have cogging issues with that gearing. That ain’t even that high. And you said you have to give it full gas to start moving??? That’s stuff that happens when you’re geared like 31/46, not 18/54 (or whatever it is) yes the cogging will be more then normal but not as bad as you say. A bad connection coulldddd be a culprit though. I’d file an RMA. Most likely not a bad connection.
 
Here are the things that have me scratching my head:

1. When first installed it barely cogged. It was definitely acceptable.
2. I purchased TWO of these combos a week apart and the same thing has happened to bothofthem. What are the odds of that??

This leads me to believe that 1) maybe I saw what I wanted to see when I first installed them and 2) this combo just can't handle the gearing.

Look - I don't need to run an 18t pinion. It runs ok with the 15t. I was just expecting it to be lightyear's better than the BLX 100 and it really isn't. It has more programming options, a motor temp sensor and I would think it won't just die like one of my BLX100's did. Now is that worth the $140 I paid for the combo? Probably not and I am a little disappointed.
 
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