Hobbywing "Warranty"

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Stock is 15. Does not come with an optional pinion. People run the stock BLX 100 ESC with an 18t pinion (see RC Dude81) without issue. You would assume the Max10 SCT could do the same. Battery is a Turnigy Graphene, 65C discharge rate. 3s. ESC is rated to 4s.

Too many variables and I’m not familiar with the car. All I can say is if that was the stock equipment, and the stock pinion is 15 and does not come with a speed gear, then why would you expect them to warrantee anything higher than what the stock gearing was?

If you are mixing and matching parts other than what the stock vehicle came with then I can’t see any warranty whatsoever as there are so many different variables in parts put together that failures can quickly easily happen based on a mismatch.

Even on a stock vehicle they give you a chart that specifically says not to run a higher gear on certain terrain.

So I could be wrong, but it sounds to me like you were just mixing and matching your own parts and hoping that it works based on other people on the Internet. That has nothing to do with the manufacturer and should not fall under manufacturer warranty.
 
Ed – you have to understand, why would you expect them to inspect it for free if there was nothing wrong with it?

if you bought it, and it failed and it is inspected by them and yes it was a part failure then I have 110% agree with you that they should replace it at no cost to you whatsoever.

That being said if you send it to them and they inspect it and there is nothing wrong with it, then they should not incur any cost whatsoever for their time.

They are paying an employee of a business to take their time and knowledge to look at it.

If it was user error, which just means you either did not understand or did something wrong then they should not have to do any time or leg work for free.

I really feel way way too many people in the modern world do not understand how business or money works.

That is why you hear these commercials for get out of credit card debt, mortgage debt, or free college!

That is not how it works.

Again this is nothing personal against you as I do not know you or the situation.

But if you send it to them and it is nothing failed then they should not incur the cost.

And yes, if it actually is defective then you should not incur any cost and it should all be on them as well.

I owned and ran my own business for 30 years, but thanks for the insight. Based on the input I received here and from my LHS, it seems there is something wrong with it. A competitors 1/10th scale ESC runs the truck no problem. Have you followed my other thread at all? Do you even know what truck we are dealing with? No offense, but bone up on all the facts before you interject. No offense.
 
This is an aftermarket ESC , meant to go in any number of builds. Holy crap, dude. This isn't the stock ESC.
 
The way I see it is it's a manufacturers warranty. Even if I sent it to Amain, they would probably have to go through the same process with HW as me.

I don't disagree. I'm just thinking they might be more helpful than the manufacturer is being ?
 
Fine man. Just giving you my thoughts no offense intended.

I also run my own business. I have seen all sorts of people try to warrantee all sorts of stuff.

I’ll stick to my own threads. Good luck.
 
Fine man. Just giving you my thoughts no offense intended.

I also run my own business. I have seen all sorts of people try to warrantee all sorts of stuff.

I’ll stick to my own threads. Good luck.

I welcome input but you came in swinging from left field. I just want the the unit evaluated. Everyone here seems to think it's faulty and not an underperforming piece of crap. Their policy leaves it so I run the risk of finding out it is an underperforming piece of crap and have it cost me $70. Do you really think they have technicians tearing these things apart piece by piece? They are slapped together in China, lol.
 
Certainly not from left field. Go back and read my response again.


if you bought it, and it failed and it is inspected by them and yes it was a part failure then I have 110% agree with you that they should replace it at no cost to you whatsoever.

That being said if you send it to them and they inspect it and there is nothing wrong with it, then they should not incur any cost whatsoever for their time.
 
I planned to suggest you let them know (maybe by linking this thread) that there are many people interested in the outcome of this concern. Many people that could be turned off of buying Hobbywing specifically due to how they've treated you and your concerns.
They should be aware that you have two units underperforming and maybe they had a bad batch get shipped out to retailers? If they did have a bad batch, they would know but still try to save as much as they can by giving you the canned response. They're feeling you out as much as you are feeling them.
When our company (service industry) feels we could get bad press or a bad rap, we react differently. But, what I try to do personally in my department is rather than have systems in place to put out fires, I build systems that prevent the fire in the first place.

I've had a cogging stock esc before on the MT10E. It is a rebranded Hobbywing esc. In this case from redcat, I got an immediate replacement free but from what I understand, the 4000kv motor is too much for it. Over time the cogging happened and most noticeable on 3s. Worked fine in the beginning few months. Do Hobbywing manufacture electrics cheaply that seem to last just long enough til warranty is over?

I'll certainly be watching for another manufacturer to give loyalty to and will hesitate to buy Hobbywing from now on.... Or until I see they give better post purchase support.
 
Here are some of the things that can reduce or eliminate cogging which is usually the result of too much resistance to get the vehicle moving at start up but this is not always the case.

1) Turn down the ESC timing all the way, which increases low end torque.

2) Turn up the punch, which gives more power to the motor at start up.

3) Use high C rated batteries such as 50C or higher.

With all that being said, I have also noticed that a particular brushless motor may play better with a particular ESC than other ones. For this reason, buying a combo is usually a better way to go since both components are usually matched together at the factory to perform really good.

Brian
 
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Here are some of the things that can reduce or eliminate cogging which is usually the result of too much resistance to get the vehicle moving at start up but is not always the case.

1) Turn down the ESC timing all the way, which increases low end torque.

2) Turn up the punch, which gives more power to the motor at start up.

3) Use high C rated batteries such as 50C or higher.

With all that being said, I have also noticed that a particular brushless motor may play better with a particular ESC than other ones. For this reason, buying a combo is usually a better way to go since both components are usually matched together at the factory to perform really good.

Brian

I don't believe timing is adjustable with this ESC. Punch was at max. It made it worse. The battery is 65C. The motor came with the ESC.
 
I took my Granite out yesterday which also has a Max10 SCT. I’m running a 17t pinion. It ran like ass, so much so that I took it inside and swapped IN a brand new BLX100. It ran better but still had too much low end stutter for my tastes. I’m really beginning to think there isn’t much difference between a BLX100 esc and a Hobbywing Max10 SCT.
 
I read this on another forum - "You can go with a smaller pinion to help with sensorless cogging. I was having an issue with my bl esc/motor and went from 18t to a 14t. haven't had any cogging issue since."

So it looks like gearing can also be a factor when it comes to cogging. The only time I experienced bad cogging was when I set up an ARRMA Senton with a sensorless 550 motor on 2S for racing. I was able to get it better by turning up the throttle EXP some and by changing some of the ESC settings. My final solution was switching to a sensored set up.

Brian
 
I read this on another forum - "You can go with a smaller pinion to help with sensorless cogging. I was having an issue with my bl esc/motor and went from 18t to a 14t. haven't had any cogging issue since."

So it looks like gearing can also be a factor when it comes to cogging. The only time I experienced bad cogging was when I set up an ARRMA Senton with a sensorless 550 motor on 2S for racing. I was able to get it better by turning up the throttle EXP some and by changing some of the ESC settings. My final solution was switching to a sensored set up.

Brian

It's definitely the gearing. The BLX100 works best with the stock 15t or lower (Granite, BRCC). The second you go one tooth higher it starts cogging. I was hoping a "better" ESC like the Hobbywing Max10 SCT could handle a lite more gear than the BLX100 but sadly it cannot. I went back to a 15t in my Granite.
 
As soon as my BLX100 gives me any grief I have a Hobbywing QuicRun-WP-8BL150 waiting on standby...?

I'm running 18T with stock electronics and mine doesn't cog as bad as yours..?
 
It's definitely the gearing. The BLX100 works best with the stock 15t or lower (Granite, BRCC). The second you go one tooth higher it starts cogging. I was hoping a "better" ESC like the Hobbywing Max10 SCT could handle a lite more gear than the BLX100 but sadly it cannot. I went back to a 15t in my Granite.
After seeing your issues with yours, I immediately starting surfing ebay for a deal on a MMv2/MXL-6S esc to have as a backup. I do not want to drop back to 2S in my stampede. If the Max10 SCT doesn't hold up in the heat... I have a MXL-6S to take it's place.

I did make a video with you in mind, but I haven't edited it or posted it yet. I just fiddled with the truck inside by making a ramp out of hardboard, so I could stress the system at low RPM in my office. It had enough traction to stress the system, but it would sit at the incline and spin the tires. I'm not seeing the issues you were, but I'll try my best to see what it does when I'm out with it next... which will be a while. I only have a few hours out tomorrow and I'm intending on taking my outcast and a nitro, then rain Sunday.
 
Hobbywing received my Max10 SCT on Friday. It supposed to take 3-5 business days to hear anything. I will keep this thread updated.
 
I still find it odd that it cogs like that. The only esc I ever had cogging issues with was my Castle Sidewinder 3 and it died after it started cogging.
 
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