Big Rock Hooked on the Big Rock build thread

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Warby said:
I fitted the badlands to my bigrock as well. Their great but will balloon if you let a wheel unload. They give it better handling and more air control too and yes they look cool.
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Stockers ballooned like crazy too. Good to know about the Badlands. Need that air control for sure.

I’m just concerned about the weight of the aluminum hubs with some of these big jumps. We’ll see!
 
HooknBook said:
This is where I started the evening…remaining parts finally arrived for the 17mm conversion.

Did a lot of cleaning while it was apart and got all of the bearings lubed up real nice.
View attachment 271674

Remaining parts for the 17mm conversion arrived. So I got crackin after work.

Typhon wheel axles in. Stock Big rock for comparison.
View attachment 271683

Steering hubs and rear blocks. Old block failed bad right across the bottom.
View attachment 271684

Getting there.

View attachment 271685

17’s installed



View attachment 271686

Badlands 2.8’s on aluminum hubs. Definitely added weight. Hope they hold up
View attachment 271687

Ready for a weekend rip. Definitely dig the look with the badlands.
View attachment 271688
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Although I have no clue on off-road tires because I only do on road I must say those badlands look awesome.👍
 
HooknBook said:
Stockers ballooned like crazy too. Good to know about the Badlands. Need that air control for sure.

I’m just concerned about the weight of the aluminum hubs with some of these big jumps. We’ll see!
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They don't balloon as much as the stocks. I hated the stock Ragnarok tyres. Made it handle like shite. My badlands don't have the aluminum hubs. Older model.
 
New Badlands out in the desert badlands.

Major upgrade in handling vs stock with enough ballooning for good air control.

Great weather for a Saturday rip.
CF4990F8-B2B7-4760-B982-AC27603E39F4.jpeg
 
I just recently swapped in some softer springs for the silver on my wide granite. Silver help the landings, but if you’re wanting to corner hard without flipping, you’ll want the control arms to sit level with the ground. Keep the center of gravity low.

I also just put these on:

RCMYou Aluminum Front Rear Shock Tower Upgrades Part for 1/10 Arrma Senton/Granite/Big Rock/Vorteks 3S BLX &Mega550,1/10 Outcast/Kraton 4S BLX 4WD,1/8 Typhon/Vendetta 3s blx&Mega550,Red https://a.co/d/1IoS3oc

Really like them so far, but haven’t tested much. They sure up the towers and put a better angle on the shocks.
 
quiznatodd bidness said:
I just recently swapped in some softer springs for the silver on my wide granite. Silver help the landings, but if you’re wanting to corner hard without flipping, you’ll want the control arms to sit level with the ground. Keep the center of gravity low.

I also just put these on:

RCMYou Aluminum Front Rear Shock Tower Upgrades Part for 1/10 Arrma Senton/Granite/Big Rock/Vorteks 3S BLX &Mega550,1/10 Outcast/Kraton 4S BLX 4WD,1/8 Typhon/Vendetta 3s blx&Mega550,Red https://a.co/d/1IoS3oc

Really like them so far, but haven’t tested much. They sure up the towers and put a better angle on the shocks.
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Definitely noticed more bite on turn in , and on exiting turns. Only flipped once when I was on full tear across the desert and gave it a hard turn. I imagine I’d need to go softer if I was doing any surface bit loose dirt.

Also had a much easier time keeping the truck on line while approaching the jumps. Was able to come in with more speed. With the stockers it would get really squirrelly if I wasn’t careful on throttle.

I’m not close to being level but this seems to be handling the big jumps really well which is mainly I do with this one. As you can tell from the body, I’m no pro😂.

EBFF2331-C49D-444B-B097-4B4A0FD84539.jpeg
 
Officially started sourcing parts to make this thing 4s capable.

Grabbed a Spektrum 150a esc from Jenny’s and found a brand new 3668-2400kv motor/fan/heatsink taken from an OC4s.

Will be looking into the upgrades need for the rear diff and input gear next along with upgraded motor mount and likely some other money gobbling items.

Plan on installing the esc and motor unit with the stock 15t pinion for a shakedown to see how things look. I have 2 extra spur gears just in case lol.

I’ve been running Zeee batteries and they seem to perform well. Will likely grab one of those or upgrade to a gensacearespammers from the LHS.

That’s all for now folks! Always open to suggestions on how I can best complete this so please do send over the good, bad, and ugly!
 
HooknBook said:
Officially started sourcing parts to make this thing 4s capable.

Grabbed a Spektrum 150a esc from Jenny’s and found a brand new 3668-2400kv motor/fan/heatsink taken from an OC4s.

Will be looking into the upgrades need for the rear diff and input gear next along with upgraded motor mount and likely some other money gobbling items.

Plan on installing the esc and motor unit with the stock 15t pinion for a shakedown to see how things look. I have 2 extra spur gears just in case lol.

I’ve been running Zeee batteries and they seem to perform well. Will likely grab one of those or upgrade to a gensacearespammers from the LHS.

That’s all for now folks! Always open to suggestions on how I can best complete this so please do send over the good, bad, and ugly!
Click to expand...

Even the Firma 130A ESC will work since it is found on 4S rigs like the Losi Lasernut U4, etc. Maybe more torque on the engine like 3670 3050kv and to help balance heat also. I cannot find the post seen some recommend 2600kv or something in that range motors. I will try to locate it. 4S slipper clutch, metal gears, and CVD driveshafts.
 
parcou said:
Even the Firma 130A ESC will work since it is found on 4S rigs like the Losi Lasernut U4, etc. Maybe more torque on the engine like 3670 3050kv and to help balance heat also. I cannot find the post seen some recommend 2600kv or something in that range motors. I will try to locate it. 4S slipper clutch, metal gears, and CVD driveshafts.
Click to expand...
4s slipper, thank you for that. Added to my list!
 
In my own duncery, didn’t bother to research up front for any fitment issues with the new ESC.

Had to get creative and ended up creating a bracket that allows me to use the original mounting points. Put some rubber washers in for a little cushion. Was able to use an existing mount point in the chassis for the power switch. Probably not ideal but I think it will work.

Overall, seems like it’s going to work well but tbd once all the parts are finally installed.

CD3AFB38-65BD-4119-9C55-347BB9932276.jpeg

A0A10380-B1EF-4BF2-9E09-12F878144290.jpeg

3B41F498-5801-458A-98FA-5C228FDBA11E.jpeg
 
HooknBook said:
In my own duncery, didn’t bother to research up front for any fitment issues with the new ESC.

Had to get creative and ended up creating a bracket that allows me to use the original mounting points. Put some rubber washers in for a little cushion. Was able to use an existing mount point in the chassis for the power switch. Probably not ideal but I think it will work.

Overall, seems like it’s going to work well but tbd once all the parts are finally installed.

View attachment 275907
View attachment 275908
View attachment 275909
Click to expand...
I mount the 130 ESCs in reverse and they fit fine.
 
Velodromed said:
I mount the 130 ESCs in reverse and they fit fine.
Click to expand...
Looked at this again and the 150 ESC is just too wide no matter how I arrange it.

I can catch 1 of the original mounts, but when I do, the opposite mount for the ESC hangs over by almost 1/8” or so. It’s close but definitely not working in any way I have tried.

Would love to make it a reverse mount and be done. Obviously looks cleaner that way.
 
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