Kraton Hot racin shock bodies Help cant get rid of the air bubbles☹️

[Surchaufeur]

I got my hot racing shock bodies and started to assemble them everything went fine at first in my first shock but the bleeder valve was leaking making air to form inside the shock so i had to take it apart again and tighten the bleeder valve harder. And i still have air inside after bleeding everything up ?What a pain in the ass also the collar for the spring is not metal but metal painted plastic and reakly cheap one

but after im done bleeding them correctly im oretty sure they are going to be amazing
Its my first shocks who has a bleeder valve so in my mind there should be 0 air inside. And what the bleeder valve relies on to seal everything is a dam plastic spacer who compresses quite a bit when i make the screw rly snug. If someone has the part numbers for the orings and other spares for the shock bodies please let me know

 

[aznbaker]

I had no problem with my set.
Just a tip if you haven't done it but it worked for me. Hopefully, I could get my point across because writing or typing, I stuck at it lol...

Once I filled the shock body with oil, I then started thread/screw in the shock shaft. Once I couldn't tightened the shock shaft anymore, I opened the bleeder screw, did not take the screw out, crack it open enough to have fluid to seap out while keeping constant pressure on the eyelet of the shock shaft, (should note, shock is upside down/shock shaft eyelet is facing up), work back and forth with the shock shaft nut and the bleeder screw until you get the shock shaft screw to bottom out or, finger tightened to the shock body.
Once tightened, work the shaft up and down to work the air to the top (bleeder screw is snug at this point the shock is up right where bleeder screw is on the top) if the shaft comes to a stop, don't force it, just crack open the bleeder. Once I get the shaft base (drawing blank of the actual term for the part, to about 1/2" or so from the shock body. Work the shaft up and down in full stroke to that 1/2" mark, any tightness or locks up before that point, open the bleeder screw once again, close it.
Hopefully I didnt leave anything out and if I did, hopefully one of the more experience members on here could help...

 

[FHE_nld]

I got my hot racing shock bodies and started to assemble them everything went fine at first in my first shock but the bleeder valve was leaking making air to form inside the shock so i had to take it apart again and tighten the bleeder valve harder. And i still have air inside after bleeding everything up ?What a pain in the ass also the collar for the spring is not metal but metal painted plastic and reakly cheap oneView attachment 61236View attachment 61237 but after im done bleeding them correctly im oretty sure they are going to be amazing
Its my first shocks who has a bleeder valve so in my mind there should be 0 air inside. And what the bleeder valve relies on to seal everything is a dam plastic spacer who compresses quite a bit when i make the screw rly snug. If someone has the part numbers for the orings and other spares for the shock bodies please let me know

No problems with my shocks, after filling I left them breath/open for half an hour or more to let the airbubbles out. Gently close them and almost no air when final closing the bleeder screw.
I rebuild them with almost zero to no rebound.

 

[Camaroboy383]

The collar is aluminum.. not plastic..

if your getting air in the body your either not filling them enough or your bleeding procedure is faulty..

 

[Surchaufeur]

The collar is aluminum.. not plastic..

if your getting air in the body your either not filling them enough or your bleeding procedure is faulty..

Sorry but the collar in my kit is plastic i can see flipped paint inside the treads and the plastic is black
And weights almost nothing

I had no problem with my set.
Just a tip if you haven't done it but it worked for me. Hopefully, I could get my point across because writing or typing, I stuck at it lol...

Once I filled the shock body with oil, I then started thread/screw in the shock shaft. Once I couldn't tightened the shock shaft anymore, I opened the bleeder screw, did not take the screw out, crack it open enough to have fluid to seap out while keeping constant pressure on the eyelet of the shock shaft, (should note, shock is upside down/shock shaft eyelet is facing up), work back and forth with the shock shaft nut and the bleeder screw until you get the shock shaft screw to bottom out or, finger tightened to the shock body.
Once tightened, work the shaft up and down to work the air to the top (bleeder screw is snug at this point the shock is up right where bleeder screw is on the top) if the shaft comes to a stop, don't force it, just crack open the bleeder. Once I get the shaft base (drawing blank of the actual term for the part, to about 1/2" or so from the shock body. Work the shaft up and down in full stroke to that 1/2" mark, any tightness or locks up before that point, open the bleeder screw once again, close it.
Hopefully I didnt leave anything out and if I did, hopefully one of the more experience members on here could help...

What i did is i left the shock body with oil for 5-10 misn to let all the air escape and i start tightening the shock bottom end when its hard i open the bleeder valve to let a bit of oil escape so that i can fully tight the bottom with my wrench. Then i let the shock stand up until i hear 0 air bubble when i compress the shock to maybe halfway. In my first attempt my shock was hydrolocked and i let all the extra oil flow out from the bleeder valver until my shaft is fully compressed then i screw the screw back in. And still have air when i turn the shock upside down like how the stock ones did:/. I gave up at that point was tired my hand were always full of oil and i constently had to degrease the shock bodies with soap
When i bleed my shocks the shock is at an angle for the bleeder valve to remove all the air
What so you mean by shock shaft screw?

 

[Camaroboy383]

Sorry but the collar in my kit is plastic i can see flipped paint inside the treads and the plastic is black
And weights almost nothing

What i did is i left the shock body with oil for 5-10 misn to let all the air escape and i start tightening the shock bottom end when its hard i open the bleeder valve to let a bit of oil escape so that i can fully tight the bottom with my wrench. Then i let the shock stand up until i hear 0 air bubble when i compress the shock to maybe halfway. In my first attempt my shock was hydrolocked and i let all the extra oil flow out from the bleeder valver until my shaft is fully compressed then i screw the screw back in. And still have air when i turn the shock upside down like how the stock ones did:/. I gave up at that point was tired my hand were always full of oil and i constently had to degrease the shock bodies with soap
When i bleed my shocks the shock is at an angle for the bleeder valve to remove all the air
What so you mean by shock shaft screw?

Of course it weighs nothing.. its aluminum, and tiny.. lol, scratch it, cut it, snap it, and you will see its aluminum..


Your procedure is flawed.. fill the shock body to just before the machined land.. with shock shaft extended insert the cartridge and thread down 3/4 of the thread.. flip shock over and loosen the bleeder, with the shock upright and bleeder loose, tighten the cartridge down.. very slowly and gently push the shock shaft in about 1/4", pull the shaft back out.. do this a second time, but before you pull the shaft back out rotate it.. now leave the shock upright until it stops bleeding on it's own...

Now again very slowly push the shaft in about 3/4 of the way while the shock is upright, when you get there tighten the bleeder... operate the shock and see if there is rebound.. a tiny bit is ok, no rebound is ok as well... it's very important to move the piston slowly while bleeding, if you push it fast it will not pass fluid by the piston, instead it will just push fluid like a syringe, defeating the whole operation...

 

[Surchaufeur]

Of course it weighs nothing.. its aluminum, and tiny.. lol, scratch it, cut it, snap it, and you will see its aluminum..


Your procedure is flawed.. fill the shock body to just before the machined land.. with shock shaft extended insert the cartridge and thread down 3/4 of the thread.. flip shock over and loosen the bleeder, with the shock upright and bleeder loose, tighten the cartridge down.. very slowly and gently push the shock shaft in about 1/4", pull the shaft back out.. do this a second time, but before you pull the shaft back out rotate it.. now leave the shock upright until it stops bleeding on it's own...

Now again very slowly push the shaft in about 3/4 of the way while the shock is upright, when you get there tighten the bleeder... operate the shock and see if there is rebound.. a tiny bit is ok, no rebound is ok as well... it's very important to move the piston slowly while bleeding, if you push it fast it will not pass fluid by the piston, instead it will just push fluid like a syringe, defeating the whole operation...

I push the shaft slowly when i bleed the shocks i always try to tighten the shock bottom forst completly and them open rhe bleeder valve becsuse in my mind air going to rush in if the endcap is not nigh
And i fille the fluid until the threads start
Im trying to understand everything atm
When i push the shock shaft when its fully extented i only hear air bubbles so im just creating more air bubbles when im trying to copress the shaft after i treaded the cartridge. I let it set for 30 mins on a little hole for the shock to let all the air bubble go to the top

 

[Camaroboy383]

Air can not rush in to a pressurized cavity, think of it this way, shake a can of soda and open it.. does the soda come out? or does the can suck in air? A pressurized vessel cannot intake air, only expel the pressure..

 

[Surchaufeur]

Air can not rush in to a pressurized cavity, think of it this way, shake a can of soda and open it.. does the soda come out? or does the can suck in air? A pressurized vessel cannot intake air, only expel the pressure..

Idk dude i have to explainations to give on whats happening. I took my shocks off and decided to remove the bleeder screw and started gently to push the shaft and air bubles were coming out until 3/4 of the shaft in. And fluid started to come out idk what the fk was going on because i just bleeded it yesterday with fully compressed shaft inside.
Decided rhis time to compress halfway the shaft or a little more because i think whats happening when i fully compress the shaft its air is rushing in from somewhere i spun the shock shaft a lot like you sugested and puped it a few times 1/4. I can ear some noise idk if its the noise the orings and plastic spacer are making when rubbing on the shaft or actual mini bubbles
Just in case now i let the shock rest on the side so that the air maybe trap inside the cartridge can escape
Same thing still has air ...
:/ idk what to do at this point

 

[Surchaufeur]

I bleeded it again 1/4 of the shaft in closed the bleeder valve turned the shock upside down and shaft singes for maybe half a centeminter in and makes air bubble noise
I think those shocks are impossible to remove all the air idk from where tf the air comes from
Im about to completly overfill them so that the shock is complete rock solid from the begining then bleeding it knowing there is 0 air inside

 

[Camaroboy383]

You do know shocks make noise right? You sure your not hearing the oil pass the piston? If infact you have air in there you will feel it in the piston.. it will dampen then move fast in the air pocket..

I think you are way over analyzing this.. its a very simple process..

 

[Surchaufeur]

You do know shocks make noise right? You sure your not hearing the oil pass the piston? If infact you have air in there you will feel it in the piston.. it will dampen then move fast in the air pocket..

I think you are way over analyzing this.. its a very simple process..

It moves fast for half a centimeter and makes bubble noise i unscrew the cap and its a festival of bubbles
Idk how the hair gets there
I know there is air inside atm im bleedeing it no air coming out only fluid

 

[Camaroboy383]

It moves fast for half a centimeter and makes bubble noise i unscrew the cap and its a festival of bubbles
Idk how the hair gets there
I know there is air inside atm im bleedeing it no air coming out only fluid

Then you never filled them enough to begin with...

 

[Surchaufeur]

i filled it up to the point it was not able to completly screw the cardtridge on and the shaft was uncompressable i had to opend the bleeder a bit to let me completly screw it in

 

[Surchaufeur]

Then you never filled them enough to begin with...

I just learned something stupid. I thought i had to bleed at an angle because the bleeder valve was on the side and not on top. After hours of doing this i decided to remove all the hole and see what the fk is going on and what i see is the body was machined with a cavity in the middle inside the shock so that you do not need to bleed the shock sideways. So me bleeding the shock at an angle just bassicly made the shock to keep air inside
? ?

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

I know what you are talking about. Mine do the same thing. That's actually kinda normal. If I fully extend them that first 1 centimeter has like zero resistance. But anywhere else within shock travel is fine. I wouldn't worry too much about it. Your shocks are a ok. Run it around for a few days and double check. Add if needed but I doubt you will have to unless they are leaking and you will know if they are.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I know what you are talking about. Mine do the same thing. That's actually kinda normal. If I fully extend them that first 1 centimeter has like zero resistance. But anywhere else within shock travel is fine. I wouldn't worry too much about it. Your shocks are a ok. Run it around for a few days and double check. Add if needed but I doubt you will have to unless they are leaking and you will know if they are.

Still have air no matter what even if doing it proprely now i even started to turn to the sides to sides because there was a few bubbles trapped there. But still makes the bubble sounds and drops one centimeter down when upside down or to the side i gave up hope i have enough fluid for the front shocks-_-
I only got the rear ones atm

 

[Custnam]

I just redid mine a couple days ago and maybe I do it different but it wasnt hard. I fill them up almost to the line, let them sit. Keep checking with a flashlight until the micro bubbles are gone. Screw it together tightly. Then I loosen the bleeder just enough for some fluid to come out while I push the shaft down. I do this until I am able to get the shaft to bottom out, then tighten the bleeder. I like them to have a bit of rebound and this is how I adjust that amount. I can adjust the rebound from a lot to a little by slowly letting a bit of fluid out at a time as I push the rod down. Once I get it to where there is about 10mm of rebound I tighten it up and its done. Works great. I LOVE the design of these, even with the way the rods are built into the ends.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I just redid mine a couple days ago and maybe I do it different but it wasnt hard. I fill them up almost to the line, let them sit. Keep checking with a flashlight until the micro bubbles are gone. Screw it together tightly. Then I loosen the bleeder just enough for some fluid to come out while I push the shaft down. I do this until I am able to get the shaft to bottom out, then tighten the bleeder. I like them to have a bit of rebound and this is how I adjust that amount. I can adjust the rebound from a lot to a little by slowly letting a bit of fluid out at a time as I push the rod down. Once I get it to where there is about 10mm of rebound I tighten it up and its done. Works great. I LOVE the design of these, even with the way the rods are built into the ends.

Same but i remove the bleeder completly in my case

 

[SrC]

I use a shock pump to vacuum out any air. At Full compression there shouldn't be any air within the shock body of a bladder type setup. Air is above the bladder and separate from the fluid. Emulsion shocks work with a preestablish volume of air above the fluid.. In a perfect world....
Also, Why do you remove the bladder? You like emulsion?