Kraton Hot racin shock bodies Help cant get rid of the air bubbles☹️

[Surchaufeur]

I use a shock pump to vacuum out any air. At Full compression there shouldn't be any air within the shock body of a bladder type setup. Air is above the bladder and separate from the fluid. Emulsion shocks work with a preestablish volume of air above the fluid.. In a perfect world....
Also, Why do you remove the bladder? You like emulsion?

Well was not able to remove the oil quickly i had to press really hard even the shaft started to leak oil at that point.. a shock vaccum how much that costs? I lost a bit of shock tarver and my stock oil tune in the rear is so hard and low rebound

 

[SrC]

A shock vacuum pump wont solve your problem. Its used as part of the filling process to purge air out of the oil itself. Just curious, what cst or weight oil are you using? I see now No bladder. This is an emulsion shock with a bottom fill and top bleeder. You are getting hydro lock at some point. And not bleeding enough air. There will need to be some air for displacement reasons and that small amount of air will emulsify and aerate with the oil. If done correctly the shocks will have little shaft rebound or compression. It should be dead. Shaft should not move in or out after it is sealed, closed and pumped several times. Bottom filled shocks are hard to work with. Patience. @Camaroboy383 gave excellent instructions. Follow them till you get positive results. Front shocks should feel the same and rear shocks should feel the same. Always match and pair the shocks for each axel. The trick is to not aerate the filled oil before you bleed at the screw. You will have too much air in relation to the volume of oil. Getting Hydrolock. Compress the piston slowly as you bleed until the shaft bottoms out then tighten the bleed screw. Don't pump it. This is tricky with a bottom fill shock.

 

[Surchaufeur]

A shock vacuum pump wont solve your problem. Its used as part of the filling process to purge air out of the oil itself. Just curious, what cst or weight oil are you using? I see now No bladder. This is an emulsion shock with a bottom fill and top bleeder. You are getting hydro lock at some point. And not bleeding enough air. There will need to be some air for displacement reasons and that small amount of air will emulsify and aerate with the oil. If done correctly the shocks will have little shaft rebound or compression. It should be dead. Shaft should not move in or out after it is sealed, closed and pumped several times. Bottom filled shocks are hard to work with. Patience. @Camaroboy383 gave excellent instructions. Follow them till you get positive results. Front shocks should feel the same and rear shocks should feel the same. Always match and pair the shocks for each axel. The trick is to not aerate the filled oil before you bleed at the screw. You will have too much air in relation to the volume of oil. Getting Hydrolock. Compress the piston slowly as you bleed until the shaft bottoms out then tighten the bleed screw. Don't pump it. This is tricky with a bottom fill shock.

I tried so much already even when it was hydrolocking at 1/4 of the shaft in still had air when i turned the shock upside down i tried what he said if i understood it correctly same thing idk . Im using 32.5 shock oil and its easier than my stock shocks now i think because of the compressed orings its making the shaft movement a bit harder so i will need to go 25wt now because i have almost no dampening hapenning when bottoming out

 

[SrC]

I tried so much already even when it was hydrolocking at 1/4 of the shaft in still had air when i turned the shock upside down i tried what he said if i understood it correctly same thing idk . Im using 32.5 shock oil and its easier than my stock shocks now i think because of the compressed orings its making the shaft movement a bit harder so i will need to go 25wt now because i have almost no dampening hapenning when bottoming out

Did you lube the o rings? I use Green slime or Silicone grease on the o-rings before I fill. It prevents the sticktion and binding you describe. Are the o rings properly seated? Shouldn't be too tight as you say. Going to a lighter oil wont help you in that regard to sticktion. It may hurt your dampening, which is what you want on your rig. more dampening. 25w too thin. IMO. I could be wrong. I only run 25w in my Crawlers. My 6S rigs I am running 90 weight/1000cst.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Did you lube the o rings? I use Green slime or Silicone grease on the o-rings before I fill. It prevents the sticktion and binding you describe. Are the o rings properly seated? Shouldn't be too tight as you say. Going to a lighter oil wont help you in that regard to sticktion.

Yes full of greenslime
Even the shaft

Did you lube the o rings? I use Green slime or Silicone grease on the o-rings before I fill. It prevents the sticktion and binding you describe. Are the o rings properly seated? Shouldn't be too tight as you say. Going to a lighter oil wont help you in that regard to sticktion. It may hurt your dampening, which is what you want on your rig. more dampening. 25w too thin. IMO. I could be wrong. I only run 25w in my Crawlers. My 6S rigs I am running 90 weight/1000cst.

Idk maybe it feels like its sticking to the shaft maybe not because its able to compress itself when i let the shaft stand up without the spring really smoothly
The 6s rigs have differant pistons they have 6 holes i think and bigger vs 4 and smaller on the 4s rigs

 

[SrC]

I sometimes take hours to do shocks. Be patient. Some are different than others. But in the end once you understand the design of a particular shock, it becomes easier. If you like playing with shocks, buy a Tamiya (large) shock pump. I cant say enough about using it. Especially for thicker shock oil. I also use it for my diffs. The pump is optional for most guys, But it does work for me. Im spoiled. But I like working on shocks. It makes the biggest handling improvement in my opinion.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Idk because for me when i bleed them there is air coming out but after it start to leak oil until fully compressed and makes a giant mess and still has air inside i just keep lossing oil more and more might not use it anymore(the 32.5wt) but frustrating. Noticed that i can barely make the arms be straight against the chassi so yes i definetly lost some shock travel there but i think it doesn't matter too much if the shafts menage to stay level to the chassi sithout crazy spring load
44$ usd becomes like 60 in canadien $ im going to go to bed its late here now

 

[SrC]

You r hydrolocking those shocks. Try watching some videos on shock rebuilding before you wast anymore oil.

 

[Surchaufeur]

You r hydrolocking those shocks. Try watching some videos on shock rebuilding before you wast anymore oil.

Thats the point when they hydrolock you open the valve and push the shaft up to remove the air and extra oil

 

[SrC]

Are you holding the shock vertical or upside down or sideways when you attempt to bleed?

 

[Camaroboy383]

Are you holding the shock vertical or upside down or sideways when you attempt to bleed?

Just so you know there are no bladders in the hr bodies..

 

[SrC]

That's what I thought. They are bottom fill emulsion shocks.....with top bleeder/ no cap. Correct?

 

[Surchaufeur]

That's what I thought. They are bottom fill emulsion shocks.....with top bleeder/ no cap. Correct?

Yup

 

[SrC]

Yup

You holding the shock vertical up as you bleed at the top?

 

[SrC]

You have a pet Rabbit?

 

[Surchaufeur]

You have a pet Rabbit?

Yes and im holding the shock streight when bleeding it
Vertical up

 

[Custnam]

I don't know if its wrong but when I am bleeding them I have them upside down and have the bleeder screw on a paper towel as I push down to get the rebound I want. Once I have it where I want it I tighten the screw and its all good.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I don't know if its wrong but when I am bleeding them I have them upside down and have the bleeder screw on a paper towel as I push down to get the rebound I want. Once I have it where I want it I tighten the screw and its all good.

The air will be towards the cartridge instead of the bleeder valve

 

[SrC]

I don't know if its wrong but when I am bleeding them I have them upside down and have the bleeder screw on a paper towel as I push down to get the rebound I want. Once I have it where I want it I tighten the screw and its all good.

Make a lot of sense doing it in that way But I would try both ways. Try filling with less oil initially. Air rises. In theory, a bottom filled shock should be bled upside down with a bleeder screw at the top. I think bleeding also occurs at the cartridge end. When upside down and loosely threaded at the cartridge. I have bled shocks in this way (a shock without a bleeder screw on the cap), treating it as a bottom fill only and forcing air and excess oil out the cartridge end upside down..

 

[Surchaufeur]

Make a lot of sense doing it in that way But I would try both ways. Try filling with less oil initially. Air rises. In theory, a bottom filled shock should be bled upside down with a bleeder screw at the top. I think bleeding also occurs at the cartridge end. When upside down and loosely threaded at the cartridge. I have bled shocks in this way (a shock without a bleeder screw on the cap), treating it as a bottom fill only and forcing air and excess oil out the cartridge end upside down..

You cant bleed them from the cardtridge its a big seal there even half screwed in. Thats why its hard at first to unscrew the cardtridge and then i hear the air rushing inside the shock