Hot Racing alloy driveshafts

[bicketybam]

Tomorrow will be a week and they still have not answered me. Not looking good

 

[Michael2]

Tomorrow will be a week and they still have not answered me. Not looking good

I sent an email probably 3 weeks ago asking if there was any plans to develop those driveshafts for the Typhon 3s and no response from the as well.

 

[bicketybam]

Just a quick update. Hot Racing never responded to my original email sent on March 8th. On March 15th I emailed them again, but this time I included the form and all the information that is required under their Replacement Program (https://hot-racing.com/replacements/). 12 days later and I haven't heard a word. I am starting to think that I am getting the shaft, pun intended. What a joke.

 

[cootertwo]

That's OK Bickety, you may get the shaft, but letting all the people on this forum know how their customer support works, gives them the shaft!

 

[bicketybam]

That's OK Bickety, you may get the shaft, but letting all the people on this forum know how their customer support works, gives them the shaft!

If they fail to even respond to me (their website states it may take up to 3 weeks), I will definitely make a new thread detailing my experience. I'll probably make a YouTube video review of their wheel driveshafts as well.

 

[PowerDubs]

Sucks it broke. Rust isn't the issue- look at the 5 o'clock position in this picture. The part that broke is clearing hitting the lip of the cup it sits in and 'self machining' at best (low angles) or being driven into the lip hard and quick for a bust.

Maybe preventable by limiting axle angle movement (droop screws in one direction, preload in another, steering endpoints in the other 2??)... but still a design flaw.

Is there enough room to take a small dremel bit and grind down the cup lip prior to running without sacrificing the cup structural integrity?

Not that you should need to do so... but maybe possible and worth pointing out in whatever video you might make.

 

[Don mercier]

I think I will wait till arrma releases theirs. thanks for the input. those hot racing ones sure look trick though. they look like they are a time consuming part to make. i can see why the part has such a high price tag. your getting more than your typical bolt on hub, spur gear, etc. I am sure the market will be limited too.

I just found on ebay last night a new hot racing part I never seen before

they are 17mm axle hex adapters. they utilize the pin and barrel nut. its a combination between the integy hex adapters and the hot racing adapters. they look really cool actually. I might order those since I cant find any duratrac hex hubs anywhere.

here is alink
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arrma-Bigr...17mm-Hubs-10mm-Offset-ATF117XT02/273681476521

the only thing is they are much wider. the standard hot racing hex adapters are +6mm

these are +10mm. I don't think 4mm is going to be super noticeable but these look pretty skookum

the integy ones I bought are the same concept, but they don't have the barrel nut. there isn't anything that holds htem tight on the axle. I bought the integy ones and I didn't like them at all. they wobbled ALOT. I think they actually wore out my axle stub shaft out because nothing held them tight onto the axle. Its hard to see the back side of these so I cant say they fit over a 12mm hex. but from my guess, they slip over the axle against the pin and the barrel nut pushes against them for a tight fit.
MUCH better than the integy design.

They work great, and 20mm wider ?

 

[bicketybam]

They work great, and 20mm wider ?

What works great?

 

[Don mercier]

What works great?

The hot racing hex adaptors, I love the width

 

[bicketybam]

The hot racing hex adaptors, I love the width

Awesome. Keep them barrel nuts tight.

 

[Don mercier]

Awesome. Keep them barrel nuts tight.

Ya eh I noticed that

Ya eh I noticed that

I've put so much lock tight on that they won't come off even if the barrel nut is off, hopefully the bearing don't go

 

[crimsonfancy]

Ya eh I noticed that

I've put so much lock tight on that they won't come off even if the barrel nut is off, hopefully the bearing don't go

So in this case, do we still need the 14mm to 12mm hubs (like the old Duratrax we were using?) It appears we don't because marketed to Arrma 3s but not sure.

 

[Don mercier]

So in this case, do we still need the 14mm to 12mm hubs (like the old Duratrax we were using?) It appears we don't because marketed to Arrma 3s but not sure.

I put 17mm wheels on mine

I put 17mm wheels on mine

Straight bolt on

 

[crimsonfancy]

I put 17mm wheels on mine

Straight bolt on

Cool.
I used blue threadlock on those barrel nuts from the start and so far so good. I'm usually pretty good about using threadlock these days after some bad choices early on with my first couple 1:10 trucks (not Arrma)

 

[Don mercier]

Cool.
I used blue threadlock on those barrel nuts from the start and so far so good. I'm usually pretty good about using threadlock these days after some bad choices early on with my first couple 1:10 trucks (not Arrma)

I put locktight were I probably shouldn't have and things don't wanna come off now

 

[crimsonfancy]

I put locktight were I probably shouldn't have and things don't wanna come off now

same. I usually avoid plastic stuff but last night I decided to try blue thread lock on the body mounts to the shock towers screws. If I make a mistake here, no big deal. Plenty more on hand from various kits that I can use.

 

[jondilly1974]

I have the HR 17mm hex adapters and used blue loctite and they have still come loose twice. I may not have allowed the full 24hrs after the loctite tho

 

[slick2500]

Just a quick update. Hot Racing never responded to my original email sent on March 8th. On March 15th I emailed them again, but this time I included the form and all the information that is required under their Replacement Program (https://hot-racing.com/replacements/). 12 days later and I haven't heard a word. I am starting to think that I am getting the shaft, pun intended. What a joke.

This seems to be a common problem with Hot Racing, they never respond to emails.............

same. I usually avoid plastic stuff but last night I decided to try blue thread lock on the body mounts to the shock towers screws. If I make a mistake here, no big deal. Plenty more on hand from various kits that I can use.

You need 8 M3x28mm socket head screws.
8 M3 lock nuts.
And unlike my couch they don't pull out. But you break body mounts.....

 

[PowerDubs]

I have the HR 17mm hex adapters and used blue loctite and they have still come loose twice. I may not have allowed the full 24hrs after the loctite tho

Try the green next time. I have great luck with it on real full sized gas vehicles. I've put it on both the servo savers on my Arrma.

But yea- give it time to cure like any adhesive.

 

[Outcastblxnut]

I have them on my v1 erevo along with center drive shafts only thing I can't break if you believe that on a. V1 erevo. Expensive but tuff. Around 250$ all way around