Kraton Hot Racing Parts

[arrma6snewbie]

Just checking in to see who is using hot racing shock mounts and basically anything hot racing.

 

[SrC]

Which shock mounts? You mean shock towers???
I use some HR stuff on my 6S Kraton and Noto. What parts are you looking into specifically? The Fr and RR chassis braces? Servo mount? center diff supports? I use PPS parts. alloy Diff carrier? I use the Arrma metal upgrade version. I think its better than the HR one.
When I can I use M2C chassis braces and shock towers. They are more robust but a bit more $.
HR servo mount is fine. Any brand alloy servo mount seems ok. I don't always need them though. I just use 8 longer screws on the stock plastic servo mount. 4 on top. 4 on bottom.(bottom chassis side)
I remove the rubber grommets from the stock servo arrangement and use 4 flanged servo washers along with longer than stock Flat head screws. Gets real solid. No movement. So for me not all my 6S rigs have an alloy servo mount. I realized it is not needed with this mod I use.

 

[FatCatRC]

Just checking in to see who is using hot racing shock mounts and basically anything hot racing.

Overpriced GPM or Integy parts. Same chinese crap. I own all 3 brands, an HR is no better then the other 2 just costs more. Some people will argue with me but it's true.

 

[Cheez]

I’ve had 100% success and 100% failure with HR parts.

 

[jhrc nut]

There’re a couple of things from Hot Racing that I like - the pivot ball retainer nut and servo horn/steering link set. My stock pivot ball retainer nuts kept coming loose, but the HR ones solved that problem for me. While I’m not convinced that the HR servo horn made any improvements, the aluminum steering link definitely cleaned up some steering slop.

 

[Rcproponent]

HR parts there are some you want and some you should stay away from.., the HR diff cases for the 6s lines are stout, not sure anyone other than vitavon makes them and they are a must have for hard bashers who are tired of busting their diff cases. The bell crank is also very good. No complaints with their servo arms either.

 

[arrma6snewbie]

I was just trying to justify 120 bucks for some m2c shock towers when the hr are 40 bucks

 

[FatCatRC]

I was just trying to justify 120 bucks for some m2c shock towers when the hr are 40 bucks

go m2c, they are much better.

HR parts there are some you want and some you should stay away from.., the HR diff cases for the 6s lines are stout, not sure anyone other than vitavon makes them and they are a must have for hard bashers who are tired of busting their diff cases. The bell crank is also very good. No complaints with their servo arms either.

GPM and Integy make both the dif case and housing. I have both hr and gpm housings and the gpm was way cheaper and you don't have to order 3 separate items like hr housings

 

[jhrc nut]

I was just trying to justify 120 bucks for some m2c shock towers when the hr are 40 bucks

Those prices don’t look right to me. HR towers are more like $35 each, while M2C are $50 each.

 

[arrma6snewbie]

Yeah 35 bucks. My bad I was thinking the chassis braces

 

[FatCatRC]

Those prices don’t look right to me. HR towers are more like $35 each, while M2C are $50 each.

Depends on what country they are in etc.

 

[Rcproponent]

go m2c, they are much better.

GPM and Integy make both the dif case and housing. I have both hr and gpm housings and the gpm was way cheaper and you don't have to order 3 separate items like hr housings

My bad I didn’t realize they made the housings. How is the quality on the GPM Housing compared to the HR? I honestly really like the looks of the HR stuff ??‍

I’ve recently started building a notorious with quite a few HR parts and so far the quality has been good. I’ve not had any of their shock towers but I’ve heard that’s one of their weaker parts ..

Couple shots of the build:

 

[FatCatRC]

My bad I didn’t realize they made the housings. How is the quality on the GPM Housing compared to the HR? I honestly really like the looks of the HR stuff ??‍

I’ve recently started building a notorious with quite a few HR parts and so far the quality has been good. I’ve not had any of their shock towers but I’ve heard that’s one of their weaker parts ..

Couple shots of the build:
View attachment 111211View attachment 111212

Same chinese crap as hr except you don't gotta order the housing ,cover and sway bar mount separately. And cheaper. Just buy black gpm and put an hr sticker on it.

 

[arrma6snewbie]

My bad I didn’t realize they made the housings. How is the quality on the GPM Housing compared to the HR? I honestly really like the looks of the HR stuff ??‍

I’ve recently started building a notorious with quite a few HR parts and so far the quality has been good. I’ve not had any of their shock towers but I’ve heard that’s one of their weaker parts ..

Couple shots of the build:
View attachment 111211View attachment 111212

As my name says I’m new to this. If I was looking to build an rc car like what you got am I looking at over 2k or who’s got a lead on totaled cars that I can build back up.

 

[FatCatRC]

As my name says I’m new to this. If I was looking to build an rc car like what you got am I looking at over 2k or who’s got a lead on totaled cars that I can build back up.

i'm into my kraton atleast 2.5k before battery (CAD) Noto around 2 ish. If I include replacement parts im into both for 5k easy (got spare everything ) Click my build badge under my name. I gotta update it I changed my fpv setup and got an unbreakable body.

 

[calebgilmore]

As my name says I’m new to this. If I was looking to build an rc car like what you got am I looking at over 2k or who’s got a lead on totaled cars that I can build back up.

I usually build mine from the chassis up. I do the m2c/jbi parts on them but still run plastic diff cases. I have only broke one and that was when my street typhon slammed a curb at speed when it skidded through a turn. I don't jump wild or anything, mostly rough terrain runs fast, across gravel and grass.

 

[SrC]

Overpriced GPM or Integy parts. Same chinese crap. I own all 3 brands, an HR is no better then the other 2 just costs more. Some people will argue with me but it's true.

Yeah they are all a mixed bag. Sometimes you get unlucky with them. HR support is a Zero as are the GPM's and Integy's My HR Crawlers parts gave me the most trouble. For example simple stuff like the $solid Brass$ axle diff covers for my Axial rigs were horrible. Expensive...yet Bad tolerances capturing the spool bearings. Needed careful Dremeling to get just close enough to barely fit.
I only use the Arrma metal diff cases. If you are lucky enough to find them. They go fast and mostly on B/O 99% of the time, since they were released. But I only use them on my Cnter diffs not the Fr and Rr. Plastic ones been holding up no problem. I would try them at fr and rr., but again are very elusive in finding them. So I gave up . Fr/Rr plastic ones are fine for me. Center needs a metal diff without question at a minimum. IMHO. Any 6S rig at least. I melted a few center plastic ones already. Not with the metal Arrma center metal diffs though..
I would try the FR/Rr bulkheads by HR, and most have no issues with them, But the 3 parts for each add up to $100. Thats $200. Cant justify it.
By contrast Vivaton has the bulkheads complete, Bulkhead, cover, and the sway bar bracket as one kit and is less money. I don't know of their quality though. But they do offer it in Silver and Red FWIW. HR is Black. If I am paying big dollars for alloy upgrades ,I want them to pop and stand out at least. I want to see that $Bling$. But I know functionally are the same.

 

[arrma6snewbie]

Yeah they are all a mixed bag. Sometimes you get unlucky with them. HR support is a Zero as are the GPM's and Integy's My HR Crawlers parts gave me the most trouble. For example simple stuff like the $solid Brass$ axle diff covers for my Axial rigs were horrible. Expensive...yet Bad tolerances capturing the spool bearings. Needed careful Dremeling to get just close enough to barely fit.
I only use the Arrma metal diff cases. If you are lucky enough to find them. They go fast and mostly on B/O 99% of the time, since they were released. But I only use them on my Cnter diffs not the Fr and Rr. Plastic ones been holding up no problem. I would try them at fr and rr., but again are very elusive in finding them. So I gave up . Fr/Rr plastic ones are fine for me. Center needs a metal diff without question at a minimum. IMHO. Any 6S rig at least. I melted a few center plastic ones already. Not with the metal Arrma center metal diffs though..
I would try the FR/Rr bulkheads by HR, and most have no issues with them, But the 3 parts for each add up to $100. Thats $200. Cant justify it.
By contrast Vivaton has the bulkheads complete, Bulkhead, cover, and the sway bar bracket as one kit and is less money. I don't know of their quality though. But they do offer it in Silver and Red FWIW. HR is Black. If I am paying big dollars for alloy upgrades ,I want them to pop and stand out at least. I want to see that $Bling$. But I know functionally are the same.

Yeah I just can’t see being 2k into an rc car to just end up doing a bad landing and messing something up. I thought building a big bore Engine for my Harley was going to be expensive but I use it every day and you need 180 Hp to get to work on a mc.
The sad part is I traded my maxx for this and I think I already have at least 500 into this truck between tires, diff case, rear skid plate, 1 new diff, cvd, transmitter, and other stuff I know I’m missing.

 

[calebgilmore]

Yeah I just can’t see being 2k into an rc car to just end up doing a bad landing and messing something up. I thought building a big bore Engine for my Harley was going to be expensive but I use it every day and you need 180 Hp to get to work on a mc.
The sad part is I traded my maxx for this and I think I already have at least 500 into this truck between tires, diff case, rear skid plate, 1 new diff, cvd, transmitter, and other stuff I know I’m missing.

Yeah the xmaxx as long as you don't go too wild is definitely a cheap basher. i put a max6 in mine and geared it up, have rpm arms if i ever break one, and i had the rear rpm hubs and that's it as far as performance goes. My k8 is super upgraded and i tend to break it every time out it seems like. I have a lot better luck with my 6s stuff, but i don't send it off any major ramps.

 

[SrC]

Yeah I just can’t see being 2k into an rc car to just end up doing a bad landing and messing something up. I thought building a big bore Engine for my Harley was going to be expensive but I use it every day and you need 180 Hp to get to work on a mc.
The sad part is I traded my maxx for this and I think I already have at least 500 into this truck between tires, diff case, rear skid plate, 1 new diff, cvd, transmitter, and other stuff I know I’m missing.

You don't have to get crazy. Just replace what breaks as they do. Less up front cost. let your wallet dictate. I see guys spend 2-3K up front . Not all necessary to have fun RC'ing. Everyone is different.
I didnt jump into the K8S because 1/5 scale is almost double in parts and upgrades. Initial purchase isnt IMHO. K8S is actually inexpensive as 1/5 scale. goes. Just that the upgrades and just basic parts are usually double of the 1/8 scale stuff. In general no matter the brands. There is no getting around it. ?‍