Granite Hot Racing Shock Bodies - Now Available

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After a few packs, they are awesome!

No leaks and super consistent performance. Very easy to dial in your ride height and make quick adjustments.

No complaints so far!
 
Hello everybody
I'm new to the hobby and forum.2 days ago I received the hot racing shock bodies and I am waiting to buy shock oil to install them. What oil do you recommend to buy? AimlessRC you are going to upload some video of the assembly? That would help me a lot.
Thanks and regards
 
If you want similar to stock, then grab 35w or 37.5w depending on how warm it is where you are. Hotter environments should use slightly heavier weight. Cooler use lighter.
 
I tossed in 50w on mine (700cst) and it works amazingly well! Still no leaking after a few weeks and multiple packs!
 
Positive. Noticeable difference between front and rear. They are about 5mm shorter than the stock bodies, so you expose a lot more of the shaft as well.

Bashed it around the yard a bit today, then dropped it down to level the a-arms and tossed some Duratrax Picket STs on and ran it on the street pretty aggressively... they handle great! No leaks yet! I would imagine some limiting straps could be fabbed up if excess droop is a huge turn-off. Other than that I like having the extra travel for running through grass and jumping it.

They look so damn sexy too.
I just saw you put on some of the hot racing shocks. I just purchased them and i am a little lost. It came with 4 O-rings, then a couple different pieces. Do you need all of them or just use one of the things that looks like a hat?
 
47208

There you go buddy.
 
I tossed in 50w on mine (700cst) and it works amazingly well! Still no leaking after a few weeks and multiple packs!
I used the exact same 50wt on mine too with nylon o-rings in the stock shocks. Not a single drop has leaked after numerous packs )
 
How do you bleed this shock and can you maybe tel it in steps
Shock bodies arrived today, and my 4 year-old and I bashed the crap out of the Granite today, and we picked up some green slime. Going to try them out with 80w to start... there are no holes in the pistons but the oil travels around them.

Do you use the stock springs or do you use other springs and did you also use greenslime on the inside seals on the shaft
I tossed in 50w on mine (700cst) and it works amazingly well! Still no leaking after a few weeks and multiple packs!


Could you also do 40 rear and 45/50 front or would that have a wierd balance
 
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The shocks have about 10mm more travel than stock,
I just managed to assemble mine (the front ones anyway) and i'm only seeing 2-3mm of extra travel (by looking at the shock length, not total wheel travel).
I wonder if the extra travel is from the inner o-ring cap that the stock shocks have, which managed not to seat tight on my shocks.
 
I dunno what you did, but there is at least 5mm on the front and nearly 8mm on the back... so yes... 10 was an exaggeration.

Anyway... bleeding is easy. Fill the body to the start of the inner threads, insert piston and spin to remove air bubbles. Start to screw in the slide, and if it binds there is too much oil in the shock. Let a little out and try again until you can fully set the slide housing.

If you can collapse the shock more than 1mm to 1", you did well.

Next, let the shock stand upright for 20 mins to help all the air rise to the top. After 20 mins, crack open the bleeder until you can begin to compress the shock. Collapse the shock all the way, it will make a mess... but that's OK. Once fully collapsed put the bleed screw back in and tighten it up. Then install the spring and adjustment screw and you're done.

40 to 80w oil (410-910cst) is pretty average for a basher. I wouldn't go higher than 80, or lower than 40, but anything in the middle works great!

I used green slime on all the o-rings, you can use any silicone grease really.

I also used the stock springs with no spacers. I can drop down the a-arms to level with the road, or jack up the truck to max out my driveshaft angle with the available adjustment.

I will note. I have bent the front shock rods twice so far. Easy enough to bend back with a bench vise. But the extra exposed rod with a high ride height will raise your chances of bending them.

Hope this helps! They still don't leak since day 1!
 
Anyone actually try these? All 4 of my shocks are leaking... even after rebuilding them with new o-rings.

Might pop on them and Guinea-pig a set.
I bought 2pairs for my granite. Just build up the front pair. Will update u if they seal better.
I dunno what you did, but there is at least 5mm on the front and nearly 8mm on the back... so yes... 10 was an exaggeration.

Anyway... bleeding is easy. Fill the body to the start of the inner threads, insert piston and spin to remove air bubbles. Start to screw in the slide, and if it binds there is too much oil in the shock. Let a little out and try again until you can fully set the slide housing.

If you can collapse the shock more than 1mm to 1", you did well.

Next, let the shock stand upright for 20 mins to help all the air rise to the top. After 20 mins, crack open the bleeder until you can begin to compress the shock. Collapse the shock all the way, it will make a mess... but that's OK. Once fully collapsed put the bleed screw back in and tighten it up. Then install the spring and adjustment screw and you're done.

40 to 80w oil (410-910cst) is pretty average for a basher. I wouldn't go higher than 80, or lower than 40, but anything in the middle works great!

I used green slime on all the o-rings, you can use any silicone grease really.

I also used the stock springs with no spacers. I can drop down the a-arms to level with the road, or jack up the truck to max out my driveshaft angle with the available adjustment.

I will note. I have bent the front shock rods twice so far. Easy enough to bend back with a bench vise. But the extra exposed rod with a high ride height will raise your chances of bending them.

Hope this helps! They still don't leak since day 1!
I also transfer the black 5-4mm spacer from arrma shock and have them between your piston and white Teflon o ring cap. Shortening your shaft extension. Hope this helps
 
That's a great idea!

Fyi, been running these for months... zero leaking!
 
Well, i finally assembled mine, and i must say - they are awesome!

I used a caliper to measure the length compared to stock on mine, and the fronts are 2mm longer while the rears are longer by 4mm, this is great since it give you the option to have a longer shocks, while you can also simply use the left-over o-rings from the stock shocks (which are 2mm each) to shorten the shocks by using 1 o-ring in the front and 2 in the rear. Just like @Calvinlim noted, you can install the o-rings between the piston and the white cap.

BTW, It makes sense that the rears are longer since on the rear the shocks connect further outside on the a-arm, so to get the same travel as the fronts they needs to be longer.

I measured an extra 5-6mm of suspension travel on my Senton, and 7-8mm on my Typhon, which due to the longer arms the extra shock length translate to a bigger travel.

I chose to run my Senton with the longer travel, as i think the stock setting is too “racy”, but my Typhon i run in stock length as it is perfect as-is.

I want to note that these shocks use the “no-caps” design of the stock shocks, it wasnt clear to me until i got them, and it also have a bleeder screw to tune the oil pressure, a feature that the stock shocks do not have.

Another nice touch is due to the fact that they share the same outer diameter of the stock shocks, you can choose to adjust the pre-load by either using the threaded ring or use the stock spacers if you like, which i like more as is quicker and easier.

All-in-all, this is a perfect upgrade, it has no downsides, and it solves the main issue of the stock parts (leaking) while also give you the option to have a longer travel if you like.
 
Anyone know where to find these hot racing shock bodies anymore? I just ordered a set for my BR3S a month ago and now I can’t find them anywhere online. I want another set for the granite I’m building, but they’re out of stock everywhere.
 
Anyone know where to find these hot racing shock bodies anymore? I just ordered a set for my BR3S a month ago and now I can’t find them anywhere online. I want another set for the granite I’m building, but they’re out of stock everywhere.
I don’t seem them either
 
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