Typhon Hot Racing steering blocks

[Twilcz1]

Anyone have a problem with Hot Racing steering blocks being machined too tight? Specifically the socket on both of my blocks were too tight to get ball in and hole with bearing to put axle hub through were too long, not allowing hub pin to go in.

 

[SrC]

You are referring to the Front HR ST blocks....???? Or rears????
Either one, try placing the BB's in the freezer for 10 min., then install them. Should go right in. The BB's sit much tighter in these HR alloy blocks which is really a good thing. Just a bear to work with. The stocker plastic blocks can be sloppy with the BB's by contrast. More so as they wear in. Note that HR sometimes has poor tolerances at times. Is what it is. I don't run these blocks. I stayed with the Stockers on all 7 of my Arrma 6s rigs. Cheap enough to replace. But the HR's do come with larger Inner BB's, one great advantage IMHO. The stocker Inner BB's wear out faster being smaller/ undersized.
As for the Front Pivot balls not fitting well. IDK. Try the freezer trick also with them. But they should rotate smoothly and not bind at all. Only The Pivot ball Nuts are what should set the looseness of the pivot balls. The PB's should never bind. This stresses the Servo and Servo Saver needlessly. Getting poor sluggish Steering response. Also as PB's get dirty, they can bind up. Keep them clean. Check them frequently, with the servo disconnected to evaluate best. Adjust the nuts as required. Sometimes I use a DRY Lube on them. Not always. Depends on the rig and how dirty I run.

 

[PeighDay]

Anyone have a problem with Hot Racing steering blocks being machined too tight? Specifically the socket on both of my blocks were too tight to get ball in and hole with bearing to put axle hub through were too long, not allowing hub pin to go in.

I am having a similar issue in my Talion EXB. The pivot balls do go all the way in but there is definitely not enough play in them. Comparing them to the plastic stock ones you feel the difference of how smooth they move and rotate compared to the HR ones. The HR blocks seem like the threads are to close to the balls causing them to catch.

I know there is are two different variants of the HR steering blocks for the Arrma 6s lineup. I made sure to get the ones that match the Talion.

 

[Monster Dork]

I got cranky about my balls being lumpy at first. I see that some of you can relate. Dimensionally, they are good and consistent. I didn't measure my balls with a micrometer, just a quickie with the cheap digi calipers, so I'm not going to wax esoteric over the significance of a thousandth of an inch. When I stuck my balls inside the HR knuckles, one was a little tight past the threads, but it loosened up quickly. No biggie. Adjustment is just as been stated, and this is where you will become sickeningly aware of how rough the surfaces of your balls really are. I found that backing off on the caps, getting an acceptable range of motion and smooth steering feel was easy. They need to be tight enough to control changes in caster, but loose enough to not kill the servo. Mine felt gritty and crappy because of my rough-finished balls no matter how I adjusted it, so I just found the best setting and got away from the workbench. After a few runs the rough stuff went away, and I wondered what I was so worried about. Oh, yeah, it was having imperfect balls. Don't worry about your balls, go bash and see how it goes.

 

[PeighDay]

I got cranky about my balls being lumpy at first. I see that some of you can relate. Dimensionally, they are good and consistent. I didn't measure my balls with a micrometer, just a quickie with the cheap digi calipers, so I'm not going to wax esoteric over the significance of a thousandth of an inch. When I stuck my balls inside the HR knuckles, one was a little tight past the threads, but it loosened up quickly. No biggie. Adjustment is just as been stated, and this is where you will become sickeningly aware of how rough the surfaces of your balls really are. I found that backing off on the caps, getting an acceptable range of motion and smooth steering feel was easy. They need to be tight enough to control changes in caster, but loose enough to not kill the servo. Mine felt gritty and crappy because of my rough-finished balls no matter how I adjusted it, so I just found the best setting and got away from the workbench. After a few runs the rough stuff went away, and I wondered what I was so worried about. Oh, yeah, it was having imperfect balls. Don't worry about your balls, go bash and see how it goes.

Thank you for your reply. I think I am going to just going to bash the stock ones and then replace them when/if they break.

 

[Ninja187]

Yes I've run into this on both my Outcast and Typhon, I believe the same part number. QC seems like its slipping at Hot Racing, I've cleaned and polished with never dull both the cups of the knuckles and pillow balls, still not perfect but i got them to be a bit smoother and they seem to wear in with use. I was thinking about adding a little graphite to help break them in.

 

[PeighDay]

Yes I've run into this on both my Outcast and Typhon, I believe the same part number. QC seems like its slipping at Hot Racing, I've cleaned and polished with never dull both the cups of the knuckles and pillow balls, still not perfect but i got them to be a bit smoother and they seem to wear in with use. I was thinking about adding a little graphite to help break them in.

I actually contacted HR about this and they sent me out another set. I did also use some GPM pillow balls and it fits perfect now in my Talion. Haven’t had to mess with it since.

 

[@9G]

Vitavon blocks for the win...a little more pricey but worth it IMHO. I use both HR and Vitavon BTW and never had an issue with either but the Vitavon ones are better quality and can take a beating. I've crashed plenty and the Vitavon ones have survived the best...only have lost one so far where the inside got cross threaded on high impact.