Hota D6+ Owners

Av642

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It really is nice. I can't even believe the spektrum s2100 charger is more expensive and can't compete with the dota 6+ at all. I sold the s2100 and bought another dota+
I need to sell my 2100. I wonder if it'll work better with an external psu like the one that was linked.
 

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I need to sell my 2100. I wonder if it'll work better with an external psu like the one that was linked.
I'm pretty sure the s2100 can't even be used with an external psu. Just another reason why it sucks.
 

Chris theheat

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I have 2 d6 pros and both are half broken, of my own doing I guess. I had one on ac on power supply mode then accidentally plugged a battery in and it killed ac power, dc works fine.

The other I basically did the same thing except it was on dc power, that seemed to kill that channel only. Things seem to work but it never actually outputs any power.



Can I repair somehow or get replacement boards anywhere? I’m assuming this is just user error and there isn’t protection against this mistake, so no warranty or anything?
 

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I have 2 d6 pros and both are half broken, of my own doing I guess. I had one on ac on power supply mode then accidentally plugged a battery in and it killed ac power, dc works fine.

The other I basically did the same thing except it was on dc power, that seemed to kill that channel only. Things seem to work but it never actually outputs any power.



Can I repair somehow or get replacement boards anywhere? I’m assuming this is just user error and there isn’t protection against this mistake, so no warranty or anything?

I’ve emailed Hota support several times and have not received any response. Here’s the email address if you want to give it a try.

[email protected]
 

Av642

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I have 2 d6 pros and both are half broken, of my own doing I guess. I had one on ac on power supply mode then accidentally plugged a battery in and it killed ac power, dc works fine.

The other I basically did the same thing except it was on dc power, that seemed to kill that channel only. Things seem to work but it never actually outputs any power.



Can I repair somehow or get replacement boards anywhere? I’m assuming this is just user error and there isn’t protection against this mistake, so no warranty or anything?
What's the proper procedure. Plug in the charger, then plug in the leads, then the battery?
 

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For standard charging, yes.
That wasn't the issue above, though. It was used in power supply mode and if you plug in a battery it will simply over stress all circuitry.

Yes, user error. I'm not aware of a repair option, definitely no at the price point for these chargers.
 

Chris theheat

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I’ve tried that email a few times also. Black hole.

I’ll have a try at harvesting parts from both to make one fully working unit and keep the other for spares, thanks
 

Hector_Fisher

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Doesn't say that in my instructions?
It does state that it does not balance 'accurately' in order to save some time.
If you have a healthy lipo they will be very close all the time. You will notice it on older lipos.
It does balance accurately, but because charging is logarithmic process, you'll get better "quality" with more time. Until the amps read 0.0, the battery is still technically being balanced and charged/stored.

The manual only kind of alludes to this. There is a "fast charge done" which is something like 95% charged and okay-balanced (it will continue to charge after that). There is "Done", which I equate to like 98% done and decently-balanced. But you'll notice that even after charge or storage is "done", it will still say there is a current (amperage) on the screen. If you stop the charge right then and wait, you can see that the batteries eventually drift down to their static voltage, which can differ sometimes between cells. If you leave it in charge or storage mode longer, it will continue to more perfectly balance the cells. Usually takes another hour or so until the amperage reads 0.0 A, and then you know it's static balanced, meaning the batteries cells won't change voltage after you pull it off the charger. As far as for every day use, i think "charge done" is plenty sufficient. I don't think you need to wait until amps are 0.0.

And yeah less healthy lipos take FOREVER to actually balance. I've got a 3s pack that i usually give up on getting perfect balance after 3 hours on the charger.
 

Hector_Fisher

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On those old ones, you can lower the charge voltage to ~ 4.1V and you will see a faster balance. I never do it, though, I just stop charging/balancing after 45min.
Agreed, getting to "charge done" from storage is usually 40ish minutes, and i'll just pull them off. So they only ever get to 4.15ish volts per cell after they settle anyway. Thinking about it, i wonder if I should just buy the HV lipos and charge to 4.35v so when i rip them off the charger after 40 minutes they might actually be at 4.2 per cell :LOL:

When i storage charge, i usually let them sit a little longer though, just to make sure the cells are resting a little closer to each other in voltage.
 

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Careful with the HV route, several ESC can't handle the higher voltage in 8S/6S mode. Castle even has warnings on it.
I had smaller HV, and they charge in the same amount of time, no noteworthy difference.
 

Marko R1

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I have the Hota D6+ & happy with it!

I want to connect my charger to my 12v car battery so that I can charge 'on site'...I assume I just run my 2 wires off the 'DC Port' as per this pic via male XT60 plug & then I can run 2 alligator clips to connect direct to my 12v car battery.

I've read the user manual & doesn't say anything about converting the power input source from 240v AC to 12v DC hence I assume the charger will automatically detect this?

Just want to be sure as I don't want to damage my lipos :)

EE204610-A9AB-4DDF-8B30-21388073770C.jpeg
 

Moirae

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I have the Hota D6+ & happy with it!

I want to connect my charger to my 12v car battery so that I can charge 'on site'...I assume I just run my 2 wires off the 'DC Port' as per this pic via male XT60 plug & then I can run 2 alligator clips to connect direct to my 12v car battery.

I've read the user manual & doesn't say anything about converting the power input source from 240v AC to 12v DC hence I assume the charger will automatically detect this?

Just want to be sure as I don't want to damage my lipos :)

View attachment 225375
I'm definitely interested in this. I wanted the option to be able to do this but it's pretty confusing. I assumed it worked like you described though. Lets hope so lol.
 

Marko R1

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I'm definitely interested in this. I wanted the option to be able to do this but it's pretty confusing. I assumed it worked like you described though. Lets hope so lol.
Yep - this is why I want to ask before proceeding as I am not 100% certain myself
 

Synchronicity

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I assume I just run my 2 wires off the 'DC Port' as per this pic via male XT60 plug & then I can run 2 alligator clips to connect direct to my 12v car battery.

You have it right. I've tested it with mine. Made up a cable like this and it pulls about 10A from the car battery charging a 6s LiPo pack at 5A, which everything handles easily. I recommend being conservative to avoid over-discharging your car battery as a typical automotive LA unit will not like being deeply discharged at all. Best is to get a dedicated deep cycle rated battery and charge using that.

charger_power_in_low.jpg
 

Marko R1

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You have it right. I've tested it with mine. Made up a cable like this and it pulls about 10A from the car battery charging a 6s LiPo pack at 5A, which everything handles easily. I recommend being conservative to avoid over-discharging your car battery as a typical automotive LA unit will not like being deeply discharged at all. Best is to get a dedicated deep cycle rated battery and charge using that.

View attachment 225384
thank you :)
do I need to change the input setting on the charger from AC to DC or does it automatically detect the input itself?
what gauge wire did you use for your lead, is it 12AWG?
 
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