Infraction How come no aftermarket companies have come out with shocks?

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I've been researching that company lately. Their Amazon store isn't the greatest but their online order store has loads of goodies. Mostly I'm checking out their carbon fiber plates for some mods I'd like to attempt.
Basherqueen is another good parts of wizard. Lots of CF goodies.

It feels like you lose 5lb from the car with that ceramic bearing kit…next level
 
I have the BQ Senton towers, Akerman, and steering plate. I held off on her center brace and made my own. I want to attempt my own esc mount and make side walls for my HR battery mount(maybe a bed too to mount 4s side by side for lower center of gravity
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My build had 3 objectives. 100mph with stock body. Eliminate acceleration pop ups. Eliminate high speed "parachuting".
The first I've yet to achieve. The second I achieved by gearing high(34/40) in hopes of seeing a higher top speed and weight.
The third I achieved by using Scorched fenders to keep air out of body and weight. Currently I'm 16.2 pounds with batteries and body. Going in, I know there is a happy medium somewhere. So I went worst case scenario in my build knowing I can easily lower weight and change gearing as needed. And because I knew 34/40 would get hot, I countered with 5 fans, 2 on body at the vents and scoop. Scoop draws in, vent(above motor) draws out.
I like that Acer has a wide variety of ceramic bearings yet they seem very pricey. Because I enjoy wet asphalt runs for the slip, ceramics would last far longer for me.
I like that Acer has a wide variety of ceramic bearings yet they seem very pricey. Because I enjoy wet asphalt runs for the slip, ceramics would last far longer for me.
 
I have the BQ Senton towers, Akerman, and steering plate. I held off on her center brace and made my own. I want to attempt my own esc mount and make side walls for my HR battery mount(maybe a bed too to mount 4s side by side for lower center of gravityView attachment 167004My build had 3 objectives. 100mph with stock body. Eliminate acceleration pop ups. Eliminate high speed "parachuting".
The first I've yet to achieve. The second I achieved by gearing high(34/40) in hopes of seeing a higher top speed and weight.
The third I achieved by using Scorched fenders to keep air out of body and weight. Currently I'm 16.2 pounds with batteries and body. Going in, I know there is a happy medium somewhere. So I went worst case scenario in my build knowing I can easily lower weight and change gearing as needed. And because I knew 34/40 would get hot, I countered with 5 fans, 2 on body at the vents and scoop. Scoop draws in, vent(above motor) draws out.
I like that Acer has a wide variety of ceramic bearings yet they seem very pricey. Because I enjoy wet asphalt runs for the slip, ceramics would last far longer for me.
I like that Acer has a wide variety of ceramic bearings yet they seem very pricey. Because I enjoy wet asphalt runs for the slip, ceramics would last far longer for me.
There’s ACER kits on Fleabay for about $80. I used the Kraton mudguards to keep airflow down, and I’m using same kind of fan setup. For the MAX5, I used some sheet CF, cut all the walls off the electronics tray, and mounted it with a little CF plate. Not into speed runs, but got 98 on the GPS.

I just wanted the thing to handle like a touring car, drift like a Silvia, and be scary scary fast on a track. Accomplished:)

Sounds like your build is on the same track! Another trick for me is to soak my tyres in PB Blaster.
 
There’s ACER kits on Fleabay for about $80. I used the Kraton mudguards to keep airflow down, and I’m using same kind of fan setup. For the MAX5, I used some sheet CF, cut all the walls off the electronics tray, and mounted it with a little CF plate. Not into speed runs, but got 98 on the GPS.

I just wanted the thing to handle like a touring car, drift like a Silvia, and be scary scary fast on a track. Accomplished:)

Sounds like your build is on the same track! Another trick for me is to soak my tyres in PB Blaster.
Hmm. The PB Blaster I've never heard of but will look into. I built mine to be a tank. My first upgraded build ended up busted on its first test run after a buddies Kraton crossed paths with me.
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The Re rebuild toughened everything up. Check this video and guess what will happen should that Kraton cross paths again.
Sadly a noob mistake and failed failsafe the night before lead to this:
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So now I'm doing a Re Re rebuild lol. I do think I had a nice setup though.

Btw...damage from lipo: burned/melted esc battery leads, body lights and fans melted wiring, side rails melted(fenders ok), connection wires melted..lhs has her now for testing and might warranty esc and or motor(Max 6 and HW 1650kv)
 
Hmm. The PB Blaster I've never heard of but will look into. I built mine to be a tank. My first upgraded build ended up busted on its first test run after a buddies Kraton crossed paths with me.View attachment 167006

View attachment 167007

The Re rebuild toughened everything up. Check this video and guess what will happen should that Kraton cross paths again.
Sadly a noob mistake and failed failsafe the night before lead to this:
View attachment 167008View attachment 167009


So now I'm doing a Re Re rebuild lol. I do think I had a nice setup though.

Btw...damage from lipo: burned/melted esc battery leads, body lights and fans melted wiring, side rails melted(fenders ok), connection wires melted..lhs has her now for testing and might warranty esc and or motor(Max 6 and HW 1650kv)
Wow…that hurt to watch!!! Glad y’all recovered:)
 
As promised, some video of my Infraction sticking to the earth:)
Our builds ARE very similar! I can make sharp turns at full throttle and the truck drifts rather than tip over. I had a nice setup for my 3s last winter. Made the body able to withstand repeated roll overs and spent an hour TRYING to turtle it to no avail.
Due to quality of video, what you can't see are the ice clumps all over the lot.
 
Our builds ARE very similar! I can make sharp turns at full throttle and the truck drifts rather than tip over. I had a nice setup for my 3s last winter. Made the body able to withstand repeated roll overs and spent an hour TRYING to turtle it to no avail.
Due to quality of video, what you can't see are the ice clumps all over the lot.
Nice! Yea, there’s no flipping the Infraction, it’s even difficult(ish) to drift now, really have to lean into it and floor it to break the back end loose. The video doesn’t really show the speed, but some of those turns were 60-70mph…
 
There’s ACER kits on Fleabay for about $80. I used the Kraton mudguards to keep airflow down, and I’m using same kind of fan setup. For the MAX5, I used some sheet CF, cut all the walls off the electronics tray, and mounted it with a little CF plate. Not into speed runs, but got 98 on the GPS.

I just wanted the thing to handle like a touring car, drift like a Silvia, and be scary scary fast on a track. Accomplished:)

Sounds like your build is on the same track! Another trick for me is to soak my tyres in PB Blaster.
PB Blaster will degrade the CA at the tire bead!
I just wipe with Simple green. Friction heat does the rest.
I Tried much saucing using other stuff.
 
PB Blaster will degrade the CA at the tire bead!
I just wipe with Simple green. Friction heat does the rest.
I Tried much saucing using other stuff.
I always use simple green on my off road tyres. Awesome break in technique! I haven’t noticed the CA breaking down, but will do a close inspection on my road tyres. I absolutely LOVE that tacky feeling on the touch, and my slicks always scale up (look like fish scales). Dunno if I could go without saucy tyres:)
 
Does the Simple Green really do anything? I'm all for trying anything over "cooking" my GRPs.
Yea, it releases some of the oils in the rubber, making it tackier. Kind of squeaky clean. You can use kerosene, trans fluid, diesel, acetone, etc. to soften the compound. The silver Hoons always get some kerosene wiped on em to soften that poopy sliver compound and get some grip. GRPs are the way to go though, I’m def in that camp…
 
SG any and all rubber tires. (y) ( 100% strength)

There are CA friendly boutique sauces out there also. SG works for me. Again, Friction heat and the right compound tire rubber is what really matters. Ambient temps matter also. Terrian also. These are great variables. After a nice SG wipe down is good enough. SG preps the rubber well enough for the friction heat. SG before and after my speed runs. Always. I feel too sticky from sauces that remain on the surface of the rubber, just picks up debris. Debris separates the contact patch from the terrain surface.
Many not in the know, jump to saucing when they just really need better chassis setup/wheel alignment. Seen it many times.
There are Pro Drag scale car sauces out there also and are superior. Very expensive and need to buy in large quantities. By the gallon (Scale car tire saucing)
These are toys. I keep it simple and in perspective.
I have fine traction. Never a complaint for me. No matter the tires I use for the most part.
I feel cooking tires breaks down the CA also over time with use. CA/glue is the weak link with many tires/wheels failing. User error is another.
 
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Factor in if you’re going in a straight line for speed runs, or turning at 70 without sliding out. Your rubber can get slippery when hot as well. I would say my chassis setup is dialed:) Still like sticky tyres when I’m bashing as if I’m on a track. But I’ve also got aluminum endlinks, Xmaxx sway bars, Sanwa M12, Sanwa SXR servo, titanium everywhere, the wing is attached to the chassis for real downforce, CVDs front and back, plus still running 1,000,000 in the center, 500k front, and 100k diff oil in the rear. Couple other tricks as well, I’ve just never had a r/c road car that hooks up like this thing…
…and I’m not in any way arguing with you:) Youre right on about putting the time and energy into tuning your chassis and suspension.
 
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For sure, I'd say the tuning of the chassis is a huge factor. Wish I took videos of all my test runs during the 8s conversion because it's THAT obvious how traction, control, and speed improved as I made tweaks here and there. One guy in my local RC group was even curious how I lowered the Senton and he has years over me(I just got my first year in the hobby a few weeks ago). Even the head tech at my LHS thought I was going to burn out the ESC and/or motor with my gearing and weight. Spring adjustment is another one of those tweaks that do far more than people bargain for. It's the sole reason I'm debating purchasing a SkyRc corner weight scale system. Right now I'm going by "feel" and I'm confident enough to say I have "good" right/left balance. But because I'm drooped so low on the front end, I have maybe 1/4 of an inch shock action at most. This translates to needing minimal cracks or elevation surfaces to run on or chassis slap will launch it up. To counter that and ease up on the droop, I made another mod that should (in theory) have a significant effect. I'm going to lower the center of gravity simply by mounting batteries side by side. Which also might throw balancing off. The corner weight system will fine tune that for me by showing all 4 corners. Then it's simply add or remove weight where needed.
 
For sure, I'd say the tuning of the chassis is a huge factor. Wish I took videos of all my test runs during the 8s conversion because it's THAT obvious how traction, control, and speed improved as I made tweaks here and there. One guy in my local RC group was even curious how I lowered the Senton and he has years over me(I just got my first year in the hobby a few weeks ago). Even the head tech at my LHS thought I was going to burn out the ESC and/or motor with my gearing and weight. Spring adjustment is another one of those tweaks that do far more than people bargain for. It's the sole reason I'm debating purchasing a SkyRc corner weight scale system. Right now I'm going by "feel" and I'm confident enough to say I have "good" right/left balance. But because I'm drooped so low on the front end, I have maybe 1/4 of an inch shock action at most. This translates to needing minimal cracks or elevation surfaces to run on or chassis slap will launch it up. To counter that and ease up on the droop, I made another mod that should (in theory) have a significant effect. I'm going to lower the center of gravity simply by mounting batteries side by side. Which also might throw balancing off. The corner weight system will fine tune that for me by showing all 4 corners. Then it's simply add or remove weight where needed.
Yea buddy! I’ve been wanting one of those corner scales. If I was still racing, I’d have one now:) Balance is the goal, unless you’re racing dirt ovals, which is FUN AS HELL, lol. Anytime I can drive sideways I’m in my happy place. I grabbed a set of white Hoons this afternoon, just to toast em. Which I did in one pack. Extremely irresponsible, but I don’t have any self control anyway.

I always do a setup before I rally my r/cs, check ride height, camber, toe, rebound, etc. One thing I always always do is pick the car up with one finger at the back and front, and check to make sure each wheel touches the ground at the same time. I made dual rate springs for my Xmaxx, and they actually work really well. Always have softer springs in the back, and never run sways off road unless it’s a clay track or something. For on road, same approach, but I’m aiming for the car to respond better the harder I drive. The chassis shop door is always locked in pro racing, all the black arts reside there.

I made a couple changes to the Felony, and it seemed to help make e car more consistent. I removed the rear sway, used a slightly softer tire, simple greened the née tyres, and went to 500k C, 300k F, and 100K in the rear. Went to ceramic bearings, and tried to chase all the slop out of the suspension. It still spins if you turn to hard off power, but was a bit more stable overall. I need to get an aluminum motor end from WFO so I can go 8S with another Xmaxx 1275KV. The ceramic bearings feel like dropping 5lbs off the car, they are so worth it. I’m probably going to swap the front and rear diffs, and just use the smaller tyres all around. I’ll keep a 10-12mm offset on the back, but I think after a couple weeks with it, those big back tyres are dumb. You just end up trying to figure out how to negate them, so the stupid car drives normally.

Ima get an early start and hit up the bmx park with my Xmaxx in a few hours, time to fly the Xmaxx:) Going 1:1 30/30, 880KV, and gonna see if I can land a double front flip:) Which will inevitably end up in me breaking my truck.
 
Nice! That's one thing i love about RCs. You can take real life on/off road experience and knowledge and apply it to scaled down versions. Many things I did with the Senton, I've done in real life with my Sonoma and Canyon's.
Currently(as we speak) Im finishing up my mod to the Hot Racing battery mount with the Acer carbon fiber plate(2mm). Finished the ESC mount and have it installed. Next, I'm going to switch up diff fluids. I was running 500k/1m/250k. Decided I wanted a spool locker that doesn't completely lock so going to try 20m in center.
Also going to raise it up a bit to get some more front end suspension. My only concern is shifting more weight to the left.
Hoping to tear up lots tonight.

*got the esc back the other day. Operates perfect, the failure was actually in the Radiolink. LHS put new battery connections on so she's ready once I finish screwing up the left side. The real bonus is being able to ditch the burned rail, but it gets tricky keeping the fenders.
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Factor in if you’re going in a straight line for speed runs, or turning at 70 without sliding out. Your rubber can get slippery when hot as well. I would say my chassis setup is dialed:) Still like sticky tyres when I’m bashing as if I’m on a track. But I’ve also got aluminum endlinks, Xmaxx sway bars, Sanwa M12, Sanwa SXR servo, titanium everywhere, the wing is attached to the chassis for real downforce, CVDs front and back, plus still running 1,000,000 in the center, 500k front, and 100k diff oil in the rear. Couple other tricks as well, I’ve just never had a r/c road car that hooks up like this thing…
…and I’m not in any way arguing with you:) Youre right on about putting the time and energy into tuning your chassis and suspension.
My LHS recommended the same diff oil combo (500k front, 1 mil center, 100k rear). Told me the 500 up front keeps the wheelies down while the 1 mill center would evenly distribute power to all 4 wheels. Also said ALWAYS keep the rear heavier than stock (10k) but light since alot of torque is gonna hit the back. I've been running that in my Talion ever since and love it...no diff issues at all. I like to run and gun street/parking lot bash with no jumps. Another guy told me to do 500/1mil/500 but I haven't tried it cause the 500/1mil/100 has been working so well.
 
Nice! That's one thing i love about RCs. You can take real life on/off road experience and knowledge and apply it to scaled down versions. Many things I did with the Senton, I've done in real life with my Sonoma and Canyon's.
Currently(as we speak) Im finishing up my mod to the Hot Racing battery mount with the Acer carbon fiber plate(2mm). Finished the ESC mount and have it installed. Next, I'm going to switch up diff fluids. I was running 500k/1m/250k. Decided I wanted a spool locker that doesn't completely lock so going to try 20m in center.
Also going to raise it up a bit to get some more front end suspension. My only concern is shifting more weight to the left.
Hoping to tear up lots tonight.

*got the esc back the other day. Operates perfect, the failure was actually in the Radiolink. LHS put new battery connections on so she's ready once I finish screwing up the left side. The real bonus is being able to ditch the burned rail, but it gets tricky keeping the fenders.View attachment 168465View attachment 168467View attachment 168468View attachment 168469View attachment 168470View attachment 168471

View attachment 168466
Nice man, that is a really really nice build.
 
Nice! That's one thing i love about RCs. You can take real life on/off road experience and knowledge and apply it to scaled down versions. Many things I did with the Senton, I've done in real life with my Sonoma and Canyon's.
Currently(as we speak) Im finishing up my mod to the Hot Racing battery mount with the Acer carbon fiber plate(2mm). Finished the ESC mount and have it installed. Next, I'm going to switch up diff fluids. I was running 500k/1m/250k. Decided I wanted a spool locker that doesn't completely lock so going to try 20m in center.
Also going to raise it up a bit to get some more front end suspension. My only concern is shifting more weight to the left.
Hoping to tear up lots tonight.

*got the esc back the other day. Operates perfect, the failure was actually in the Radiolink. LHS put new battery connections on so she's ready once I finish screwing up the left side. The real bonus is being able to ditch the burned rail, but it gets tricky keeping the fenders.View attachment 168465View attachment 168467View attachment 168468View attachment 168469View attachment 168470View attachment 168471

View attachment 168466
Hey, when you do your diffs, if you have an air compressor or anything else that shakes, put the diff in a vessel, (especially the 20M), and let the vibrations shake all the air bubbles out of the fluid. Turbocharges all the air bubbles up and out of the fluid, snd helps the really thick stuff settle into the diff cup.
 
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