Greengaunja
Ise da by' dat burns da Senton........
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Your rear differential should always be lighter than front. But again, it comes down to your style and preference. This is why it's hard to give straight answers when people ask what they should run. And it applies to anything and everything from shock/diff weights, tires, electronics, etc. Because what works for you may not for me, and vice versa. Personally, I feel anyone should look at what they are good at(acceleration, turns, jumps etc) and compliment that first and foremost with what you use. Then try to enhance your weaker areas. Then you apply what you are doing with your rc. (Racing, onroad, offroad, aerobatics, or Evel Knievel style long jumps etc)My LHS recommended the same diff oil combo (500k front, 1 mil center, 100k rear). Told me the 500 up front keeps the wheelies down while the 1 mill center would evenly distribute power to all 4 wheels. Also said ALWAYS keep the rear heavier than stock (10k) but light since alot of torque is gonna hit the back. I've been running that in my Talion ever since and love it...no diff issues at all. I like to run and gun street/parking lot bash with no jumps. Another guy told me to do 500/1mil/500 but I haven't tried it cause the 500/1mil/100 has been working so well.
When I first got into this hobby, I tried to build an rc equally good on road as off road. And wasted alot of money before accepting what everyone tried to tell me. I should have know better because it's the same with or RL vehicles. It's either great off road or great on road. But average at best for both on the same setup. Take toeing for example. Offroad you get a better control with fronts toed out. Onroad(depending on tires) you have more control toed straight or in. A good example is the control I had when my Senton was still 6s. Belted Trenchers where toed inwards. Hoons/GRPs were toed as straight as possible. The weight and widths of the tires(and offsets) changed way the RC reacted.
That's worth trying. I was going to warm it up(someone else here wrote about using that method). I have more than a few things suitable for vibration, probably the best is my Senton 3s thanks to imbalanced GPM rear CVDs lolHey, when you do your diffs, if you have an air compressor or anything else that shakes, put the diff in a vessel, (especially the 20M), and let the vibrations shake all the air bubbles out of the fluid. Turbocharges all the air bubbles up and out of the fluid, snd helps the really thick stuff settle into the diff cup.