Kraton How do I fix this?

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cobalt172

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
Picture's worth a thousand words...

armkraton.jpg
 
easy, just take off the wheel, unscrew the pivot ball cap (red cap with hex head), now unscrew the pivot ball out of the arm completely and insert it back through the hole you took the red cap out of and thread the pivot ball back into the arm( Make sure you remember to put back on the washer while threading back in the pivot ball). Then thread the red cap back in but don't tighten it fully snug you want the pivot ball to be able to move, so what I do is stick the car on top of the wheel you took off like a stand and thread the cap all the way in and turn the steering back and forth by hand if it feels tight back off the red cap a bit until the steering turns free. toss on the wheel torque the nut and bash on.
 
Take the wheel off, unscrew that corresponding hex nut. unscrew the ball and insert back from the outside.
easy, just take off the wheel, unscrew the pivot ball cap (red cap with hex head), now unscrew the pivot ball out of the arm completely and insert it back through the hole you took the red cap out of and thread the pivot ball back into the arm( Make sure you remember to put back on the washer while threading back in the pivot ball). Then thread the red cap back in but don't tighten it fully snug you want the pivot ball to be able to move, so what I do is stick the car on top of the wheel you took off like a stand and thread the cap all the way in and turn the steering back and forth by hand if it feels tight back off the red cap a bit until the steering turns free. toss on the wheel torque the nut and bash on.
Hey gents, great description, but if memory serves me correctly, once it pops out, the block is likely cracked. Usually a hairline one, so you have to look very close. Better to replace that block so it doesn't happen again @cobalt172
 
Hey gents, great description, but if memory serves me correctly, once it pops out, the block is likely cracked. Usually a hairline one, so you have to look very close. Better to replace that block so it doesn't happen again @cobalt172
Even if no crack, it was stretched. Likely to keep popping. Time for an $8 part.
 
No question to check for damage but short term just pop it back in.
Get a new part on order or if you want the expense get some aluminum ones, all out of stock though.
 
Ive got a part on the way, Iive never had to take apart the front caster block on a kraton before. How do you undo the axel in the block?
 
Check these out, should help you a lot.


You have to fix your clicking first but this answers all your shim questions. My guess is that you blew through your input gear. You have to check that and your diff outside for any flat spots. Only if those still look ok shims will keep it in line.

 
I don't understand why I need to shim the transmission of this car just to have it work.
 
I don't understand why I need to shim the transmission of this car just to have it work.

Shimming is done to ensure all gears mesh properly. Basically, we‘re obliged to do this seeing as Arrma’s QA department is about as useful as a pair of breasts on a nun.
 
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For stock and standard driving you don't have these issues. If you are just like most of us and literally bash the crapola out of it and upgrade the power system, at that point it becomes more of a necessity and you have to go the extra mile.
In addition you have to understand the impact and listen to the noises.
A clicking is an emergency sign and you stop driving immediately, continuing is just recipe for more $$. Not just 'shim the heck out of it' but shim where needed. If a case is cracked, a screw is loose or similar all the shims in the world will not do anything. These cracks might not be visible at first.
Worst thing to do is to just change stuff without understanding the issue, that is costly. At some point it makes sense to just hit the reset and swap out the full part (ex: diff) and install one from a parts breaker like Jenny's. In the meantime you can troubleshoot the one that has issues.

Yours seeme dto have been fine at some ppoint i.e. most of this is probably wear and tear.
 
I don't understand why I need to shim the transmission of this car just to have it work.
Every rc even a premium rc kit you will have to diff your diffs if needed you have to take in consideration the QC of the diff cup,diff gearbox,bearings,internal gears,gasket ect for the shimming. Thats why shimming is important those parts are made with tolerances and trying to get the exact tolerances everytime is almost impossible. Its something you need to learn day one before working on diffs a lot of people learn the hardway when their brand new diff fails... an expensive mistake
Diffs to me are quite facinating sure i hate grease badly. Oil i can easy get rid of it now with my new cleaner but grease not so much. The diffs specially the rear is the thing who gets the most amount of stress in the drivetrain.
 
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