Senton How do the plastic 3s diffs hold up?

[pug]

It is amazing how some people have no problems, and some have a lot of problems with their Diff's (I think this is a way to know how people drive their rigs ).

Yeah, I’m super careful and I try not to land with throttle or wheel speed. It’s time for others to learn how to prevent a plastic diff from getting destroyed.

 

[TN-RC]

Yeah, I’m super careful and I try not to land with throttle or wheel speed. It’s time for others to learn how to prevent a plastic diff from getting destroyed.

I will say that being careful takes the fun out of it.

 

[pug]

I will say that being careful takes the fun out of it.

Not really, I still send it, but I make sure to not land on the throttle.

 

[TN-RC]

Not really, I still send it, but I make sure to not land on the throttle.

I understand, you are saying that landing on the throttle is what is killing them.

 

[pug]

I understand, you are saying that landing on the throttle is what is killing them.

Yeah, the plastic just can’t handle the shock of a sudden stop like that.

 

[TN-RC]

Yeah, the plastic just can’t handle the shock of a sudden stop like that.

ok, have you had trouble other than jumping?

 

[pug]

ok, have you had trouble other than jumping?

No, the only part on the RC that can’t handle anything is the shocks since the shafts are made out of soggy spaghetti noodles.

 

[Velodromed]

It is amazing how some people have no problems, and some have a lot of problems with their Diff's (I think this is a way to know how people drive their rigs ).

Driving style, set up and maintenance.
Set up (shim, yoke quality, grease type and amount) I think is #1
Maintenance (regular checking shim status, yoke condition, clean and re-grease but not too much grease) is #2
Drive style I’m thinking can get away with more as long as 1 and 2 are spot on but yeah, some good habits are needed regardless.

 

[GRC]

It is amazing how some people have no problems, and some have a lot of problems with their Diff's (I think this is a way to know how people drive their rigs ).

ok, have you had trouble other than jumping?

*edited to include some of the advice below

For me, the main difference is jumping. I've stripped several rear diffs, but always after landing a big jump. My front diff has not been a problem. It lasted over 2 years before gradually wearing down.

I don't land on throttle and I keep the slipper fairly loose (about 1-1/2 turns), so in my case I think the rear diff and input gear strip because the rear flexes much more than the front when landing jumps. This throws the rear diff and input gear out of alignment, and they strip each other. The Hot Racing aluminum differential yoke helps. It flexes less and keeps the rear diff and input gear lined up. A stronger motor mount plate should also help. However, I still managed to strip rear diffs when landing big jumps. So I added the tower to tower brace for the 4s line to reduce chassis flex. So far so good. I haven't stripped the stock plastic diff/input gear since. If I strip the rear diff again, I'll try the metal diff/input gear.

All these upgrades are not necessary for everyone. As many have said, the stock diffs hold up in many situations. My stock plastic diffs help up to 4-5 ft jumps with no problem. It was not until I started doing bigger jumps that I started to strip the rear.

I would just run a new 3s Arrma stock. See if anything strips. If it does, I would modify/upgrade in this order:
1) Loosen the slipper, maintain the diffs so they are well greased and operate smoothly
2) If your motor mount is bent
------a) Support the motor with a o-ring https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FM9CBBW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
------b) Get a stronger motor mount (Arrma 6mm, Custom RC Upgrades, or M2C without the chassis block)
3) If your motor mount is not bent, start with the Hot Racing aluminum differential yoke
4) If you still strip, add either a tower to tower brace or metal differential and input gear. I'm not sure which helps more, since I haven't tried the metal diff/input gear yet.

 

[pug]

In my opinion, the main difference is jumping. I've stripped several rear diffs, but always after landing a big jump. My front diff has not been a problem. It lasted over 2 years before gradually wearing down.

I don't land on throttle, so I believe I strip the rear diff and input gear strip because the rear flexes much more than the front when landing jumps. This throws the rear diff and input gear out of alignment, and they strip each other. The Hot Racing aluminum differential yoke helps. It flexes less and keeps the rear diff and input gear lined up. A stronger motor mount plate will also help. However, I still managed to strip rear diffs when landing big jumps. So I added the tower to tower brace for the 4s line. So far so good. I haven't stripped the stock plastic diff/input gear since. If I strip the rear diff again, I'll try the metal diff/input gear.

All these upgrades are not necessary for everyone. As many have said, the stock diffs hold up in many situations. My stock plastic diffs help up to 4-5 ft jumps with no problem. It was not until I started doing bigger jumps that I started to strip the rear.

I would just run a new 3s Arrma stock. See if anything strips. If it does, I would upgrade in this order:
- If your motor mount is bent
- Support the motor with a o-ring https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FM9CBBW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Get a stronger motor mount (Arrma 6mm, Custom RC Upgrades, or M2C without the chassis block)
- If you're motor mount is not bent, start with the Hot Racing aluminum differential yoke
- If you still strip, add either a tower to tower brace or metal differential and input gear. I'm not sure which helps more, since I haven't tried the metal diff/input gear yet.

Instead of the O-ring, print out a motor brace, I tried the O-ring method and the mount still bent on a bad landing. The printed brace doesn’t allow the motor to move in any direction.

 

[Yonic]

I Think it's mainly slipper setting and also maybe grease type

 

[razorrc]

I Think it's mainly slipper setting and also maybe grease type

I completely agree. Especially if you drive on-road and don't set your slipper, you're going to have a lot more problems.

 

[K-BASH]

It is amazing how some people have no problems, and some have a lot of problems with their Diff's (I think this is a way to know how people drive their rigs ).

Slipper clutch adjustment has alot to do with it

 

[StephenSchandelmayer]

Get a metal rear (or both) diff and don't think about it again lol. That's what I say. Might never have a plastic issue like some of these guys/girls but when I had my big rock it just felt great having complete confidence that the diff isn't going anywhere anytime soon

 

[andiiarrmadude]

If you like to punt and rip the big rock on 100% speed, diff gears, input drives on stock tend to get stripped at some stage in my recent experience. I'm a noob and still learning, but I've tried to follow every guide on this forum and vid on youtube.
Really annoying. Don't know if it is worth upgrading to the metal hardware or just getting a more expensive Arrma truck?

Like a higher end Arrma or a Traxxis? Suggestions welcomed.

Problem is when the car is working she flies like no other!
I taped the stock tyres which stopped ballonning and improved control, they're great fun but clearly do not have the amazing control on dirt of the MX28 HP 2.8in Badlands.

I first encountered troubles with the input drive after installing the Badlands on my vehicle and thought it was the extra stress from the belted tyres which then resulted in the stripping of both input drive gear, input gear and most recently the spur gear (i think the mesh was too tight in that instance I'm still learning).

I like to go fast, I like to get air
All in all I'm hooked to the hobby but would love to figure out the magic sauce with regard to the stuff I've mentioned.

If you like to punt and rip the big rock on 100% speed, diff gears, input drives on stock tend to get stripped at some stage in my recent experience. I'm a noob and still learning, but I've tried to follow every guide on this forum and vid on youtube.
Really annoying. Don't know if it is worth upgrading to the metal hardware or just getting a more expensive Arrma truck?

Like a higher end Arrma or a Traxxis? Suggestions welcomed.

Problem is when the car is working she flies like no other!
I taped the stock tyres which stopped ballonning and improved control, they're great fun but clearly do not have the amazing control on dirt of the MX28 HP 2.8in Badlands.

I first encountered troubles with the input drive after installing the Badlands on my vehicle and thought it was the extra stress from the belted tyres which then resulted in the stripping of both input drive gear, input gear and most recently the spur gear (i think the mesh was too tight in that instance I'm still learning).

I like to go fast, I like to get air
All in all I'm hooked to the hobby but would love to figure out the magic sauce with regard to the stuff I've mentioned.

Slipper clutch adjustment was one of my more recent lessons!

 

[razorrc]

Slipper clutch adjustment was one of my more recent lessons!

For the last 5 years, I've been trying to convince this forum of 3 things. We're getting there...

1: set your EPA
2: stop buying RPM arms
3: set your slipper

 

[slick2500]

For the last 5 years, I've been trying to convince this forum of 3 things. We're getting there...

1: set your EPA
2: stop buying RPM arms
3: set your slipper

I don't think I have ever even seen you mention Rpm arms. But yeah the more I use their products the less impressed with them I get.

The hybrid gearbox for the Rustler was probably the worst though more than half of the screws wouldn't even get snug.

Their plastic is too soft for so many of the components they use it in.

 

[deadend9009]

I have a 6 weeks old Vorteks that I just race around a track I made in my driveway and some minor jumps (never more than 1-2ft in the air). Stripped a rear differential today. When I removed it, it was dry, no grease, and the teeth were ground down.

Took the front diff to the rear and it'll be RWD until I get the parts from Jenny's.

Not particularly impressed!

 

[RCbuzz]

I have not bent any shock shafts yet but I have burned through a couple diff's/Inputs... Given the size of the plastic gearing I am thinking along the lines of @GRC with flex.. Got an HR yoke going in next (again with a plastic diff). Perhaps I can makeshift a tower to tower brace as well.

We are enjoying the jumps more now and things are getting interesting...