How do you 6S guys deal with wheels stripping/melting?

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How do you 6S guys deal with wheels stripping/melting?

cootertwo

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I stripped the rear, right side wheel on my Kraton, on 6S. I did the pin thing. If these had left hand thread on the right side, they wouldn't work loose, only tighten. My wheels were tight, I check before every run. Hex just spun in the hub, and unscrewed the nut. Hard to believe there's that much torque going on, but there is! Oh, and I had my punch set on 9, and was running on the street with the stock tires/wheels.
 

WTF MIKE

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Here's my revised answer. On some lower quality wheels, the wheel's hex doesn't have enough backspace to get a full seat on the axle hex. In that case, it will strip out because of the physical design being arguably flawed. It's also possible the plastic for the wheel is too soft and doesn't hold its shape enough. On all the trucks I've run on 6s, even 8s, with 17mm hexes, I've never had a hex strip. I did have problems with duratrax wheels when I had my slash 4x4 and it was using a sidewinder 8th on 6s. I swapped the wheels for some prolines and never had an issue again, and the tires were much grippier as well.
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I guess it's a byproduct of a ton of power from the 6S Lipo but I need a solution for my Talion that doesn't involve me buying new wheels all the time.

What are you 6S guys doing for 17mm wheels to prevent the aluminum hub completely stripping and melting the wheel?

Is there such a thing as metal wheels?
Correct me if I’m wrong but I think the hex seating on the talion wheels are not as deep as the outcast and kraton wheels. And that’s why ppl are stripping them
 

Fritte_Swe

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Not sure if this will help but check your bearings on those hubs that are giving you the issue could be seized and building up heat thus transfering it through the hex making the plastic soft.
I was just about to suggest the same thing. I have had bearings srize up causing alot of fritction=heat.
 

Ecmoto413

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I had this problem on my outcast!! I ended up spending $$$$$ I got a full set of hot racing hubs got a set of front axles from a kraton because I though the wheel was rubbing the bearing. Probably was just bad bearings and it just got hot and melted the plastic wheels. But now I’m just trying to keep it on all four wheels and bash!!
 

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I haven't had this problem on any Arrma tire but I have had it happen to a set of old 3.8 Trencher X & a newer set of Badlands mx38. The latter was warrantied. I ended up getting F11 rims for the Trencher X's. I don't really use either tire anymore unless I want to show off.
 

2015GTRBE

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Hopefully these Proline Badlands will not. View attachment 30901

It’s 100% the wheel nuts backing off. What I do is tighten my wheels WHILE I’m out bashing with an automotive 17mm ratchet. I also use threadlock. It can be a combo of both bearing and hex nut, I would replace the bearings in these cars on the day of purchase.... and then the Arrma red loctite fun begins ???
 

cootertwo

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Well, like I said before, I'll bet most of the problems are on the right side. If the hex slips just a tiny bit, it unscrews the nut, especially the nuts that have serrations to hold them against the wheel, and then gets worse from there. If they were left hand thread on the right side, I don't think there would be as big a problem. Just my opinion.:)
 

Synack

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It’s 100% the wheel nuts backing off. What I do is tighten my wheels WHILE I’m out bashing with an automotive 17mm ratchet. I also use threadlock. It can be a combo of both bearing and hex nut, I would replace the bearings in these cars on the day of purchase.... and then the Arrma red loctite fun begins ???

Maybe for some people, but as I said earlier in this thread, all 4 wheels were locked down super tight and the wheel hex melted and shot the wheel off. When I went to take the nut off the other day, it required a good bit of force meaning it was still on there very tight.
 

2015GTRBE

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Maybe for some people, but as I said earlier in this thread, all 4 wheels were locked down super tight and the wheel hex melted and shot the wheel off. When I went to take the nut off the other day, it required a good bit of force meaning it was still on there very tight.
Hmm.... then I guess it is the friction from heat. Pop open a stock bearing from that side and see what’s inside. It would be helpful for us to figure this out, and I don’t think larger pins/ notching is the best solution if it can be figured out other ways ie: bearings.
 

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The only time I've ever had a 17mm hex strip is when the wheel nut came loose. I have 2 sets of Axial Beadlock wheels and a set of Maximizer X75 wheels, and a set of Proline F11s that I have owned for several years that have been on several trucks. Never had a problem with any of them.
 

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The only time I've ever had a 17mm hex strip is when the wheel nut came loose. I have 2 sets of Axial Beadlock wheels and a set of Maximizer X75 wheels, and a set of Proline F11s that I have owned for several years that have been on several trucks. Never had a problem with any of them.

It could also be a shallow wheel hub. I’ve seen a few buggies with proline, jconcepts, aka wheels strip due to how shallow the mounting surface is. I don’t own a Talion to know what the OEM wheels are like so I’m not much help here.
 

dude-guy-bro

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I guess it's a byproduct of a ton of power from the 6S Lipo but I need a solution for my Talion that doesn't involve me buying new wheels all the time.

What are you 6S guys doing for 17mm wheels to prevent the aluminum hub completely stripping and melting the wheel?

Is there such a thing as metal wheels?
Hey same happend to me today set up my Typhon 6s for a little street bashing put on my dboot hoons and after beating the piss out of it for 15 min in parking lot my rear wheel did exactly what yours did rolled right off I checked wheel hex tight as hell and hot as hell burned my fingers
 

dude-guy-bro

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Hey same happend to me today set up my Typhon 6s for a little street bashing put on my dboot hoons and after beating the piss out of it for 15 min in parking lot my rear wheel did exactly what yours did rolled right off I checked wheel hex tight as hell and hot as hell burned my fingers
I also bought these dboot hoons on Amazon and if I remember I read some reviews mentioned something about knock off hoons that didn’t hold up but I’m betting problem is with the bearings got new bearings on the way thanks for the info
 

Tonio1000

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It's not that, I literally just watched the wheel go flying off the car but the hex nut and everything else is still perfectly bolted on and in tact. It just shredded then melted the plastic wheel hub.
Had to do mine over twice
 

kcl051688

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It's not that, I literally just watched the wheel go flying off the car but the hex nut and everything else is still perfectly bolted on and in tact. It just shredded then melted the plastic wheel hub.
I have this exact issue. Did you find a fix?
 
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