How do you clean your RC?

[Brandon]

O.k. a lot of great input from several with years & years of exp. I'm seeking middle ground here so anyone's input is appreciated.
We'll (my son and i) be running our cars a few times a week probably. Schedules barely allot us enough time for that let alone pulling & cleaning bearings and riffs after each run.
Normally in all about taking care of it to last but I need balance here. I'm in Arizona so I'll seldom if ever find it in we or muddy conditions. At best maybe moisture from grass with dew on it in winter.
That said...if I schedule the pulling of bearings, diffs, & use of brake cleaner etc... down to maybe a monthly exercise and in between each run just spray w/50/50 SG solution, remove wheels and hose off, then hit with compressed air....would I be a crappy Rc owner to my Kraton and pay the price or would that suffice as decent middle ground?

I would say you are good to go. Bearings might not last a long time unless or until you switch out to better ones fast eddy is a good choice. I run 15-20 + times before any “detailed” cleaning and diff work. Brush, spray with soaps water, SG rinse, lube WD silicone, wipe, dry line on moving parts. Dry conditions mostly and mud and water when I have the next day off.

 

[SrC]

Not a fan of WD 40. It displaces water, but... it gums up in the worst hard to reach places, like bearings and hinge pins and pillow balls. It penetrates sealed bearings and ruins the bearing's lubricant. This causes more wear where you don't need it. It makes bearings blow out!
Because of its properties, it is most notably used to make RC tires GUMMY. Think Crawlers....

For some reason 99% of people think WD40 is the best lubricant. It is not a lubricant at all! It is a penetrating spray for stuck parts. And it is a "W"ater "D"ispersant. And although plastics look nice and new when sprayed with WD40, this is not the correct use. It penetrates, it will clean much like a solvent for bearing maintenance. And it gets everywhere. It must be rinsed off small RC bearings which is hard to do because it doesn't mix well with water. And the bearings need real lubricant after the WD40 is removed completely. And it really stinks horrible if you ask me. I use it around the house for certain things, but not for locks or anything else. WD40 is not a do it all product like the company wants to market it as. They do make other silicone sprays etc.

It is a very old product that became obsolete in today's day and age. It was great for older car distributor caps with points and condensers back in the 1960's. It appears to lubricate because it frees things up. But is not a substitute for oil or a grease in any way.
The company keeps it going like it is the golden do it all spray. It's all Marketing claims, that's why it ends up being used for "everything".
Just Google all you want to know about WD40. You will see pros that the company markets and cons that professional users have cited.
Simple green and water followed by compressed air carefully used to blow off the water is all you need for RC maintenance
Try using WD40 on your stuck car door locks several times. You will end up with lock problems down the road. Guaranteed.
Just use it carefully. It has a specific purpose. It's not a "do it all" product like the directions on the can states.
Enjoy.

Sorry for the rant. I Digress...

 

[Saltystevo]

Not a fan of WD 40. It displaces water, but... it gums up in the worst hard to reach places, like bearings and hinge pins and pillow balls. It penetrates sealed bearings and ruins the bearing's lubricant. This causes more wear where you don't need it. It makes bearings blow out!
Because of its properties, it is most notably used to make RC tires GUMMY. Think Crawlers....
For some reason 99% of people think WD40 is the best lubricant. It is not a lubricant at all! It is a penetrating spray for stuck parts. And it is a "W"ater "D"ispersant. And although plastics look nice and new when sprayed with WD40, this is not the correct use. It penetrates, it will clean much like a solvent for bearing maintenance. And it gets everywhere. It must be rinsed off small RC bearings which is hard to do because it doesn't mix well with water. And the bearings need real lubricant after the WD40 is removed completely. And it really stinks horrible if you ask me. I use it around the house for certain things, but not for locks or anything else. WD40 is not a do it all product like the company wants to market it as. They do make other silicone sprays etc.
It is a very old product that became obsolete in todays day and age. It was great for older car distributor caps with points and condensers back in the 1960's. It appears to lubricate because it frees things up. But is not a substitute for oil or a grease in any way.
The company keeps it going like it is the golden do it all spray. It's all Marketing claims, that's why it ends up being used for "everything".
Just Google all you want to know about WD40. You will see pros that the company markets and cons that professional users have cited.
Simple green and water followed by compressed air carefully used to blow off the water is all you need for RC maintenance
Try using WD40 on your stuck car door locks several times. You will end up with lock problems down the road. Guaranteed.
Just use it carefully. It has a specific purpose. It's not a "do it all" product like the directions on the can states.
Enjoy.

Sorry for the rant. I Digress...

So what is a good water displacement that lubes everything properly?

 

[ARRMAed & Dangerous]

I would say you are good to go. Bearings might not last a long time unless or until you switch out to better ones fast eddy is a good choice. I run 15-20 + times before any “detailed” cleaning and diff work. Brush, spray with soaps water, SG rinse, lube WD silicone, wipe, dry line on moving parts. Dry conditions mostly and mud and water when I have the next day off.

Thanks

 

[Captain Dirt]

So what is a goos water displacement that lubes everything properly?

Air compressor, followed by a dry lube. Something with Teflon in it, or the like, which repels dirt.

 

[slick2500]

Air compressor, followed by a dry lube. Something with Teflon in it, or the like, which repels dirt.

Not all Teflon lubes repel dirt, some are listed as only being dirt resistant, most of the Teflon based chain lube is though.

 

[SrC]

Not all Teflon lubes repel dirt, some are listed as only being dirt resistant, most of the Teflon based chain lube is though.

Teflon is a very slick lube additive. It can be found in an oil, grease or even a self drying lube that doesn't collect dirt. Generally, is found in a wax based dry lube. DUPONT Chain Saver dry chain lube has teflon and a chrome moly that drys to a waxy film. Wax sheds dirt and water. That's what I've been using. I use it on my bicycle chains. And they never rust or gunk up with dirt at all. The stuff has a 3k mile interval for motorcycle use. So I would say it is pretty durable. It's safe to use on rubber also? I use it mostly on all my RC cvd joints and also the dog bone ends for what it's worth. I just let it dry before I assemble the parts. I even tried it on the pillow balls. It's very waterproof. New out of the box, Arma puts oil on the front cvd's. MIP uses black grease on their CVD parts also. Used sparingly, the pins and barrels wear better, but attracts some grit. I like the dry lube. Some have stated to run the cvd's with no lube at all. Seen a video about using no lube. I don't agree. Parts will wear out fast. There's alot of friction a these joints. Many people just blob grease into the cvd jojnts. That's worse than no grease at all if you ask me.

So what is a goos water displacement that lubes everything properly?

I imagine a silicone spray. But again that will leave some residual behind. Attracting dust. Air compressor and a towel to dry is all you should do. At least silicone spray won't attack the bearings and hinge pins etc. And silicone won't harm any rubber either. But it will collect dirt, no matter how much silicone you can wipe off. It is an oil.

 

[Saltystevo]

I imagine a silicone spray. But again that will leave some residual behind. Attracting dust. Air compressor and a towel to dry is all you should do. At least silicone spray won't attack the bearings and hinge pins etc. And silicone won't harm any rubber either. But it will collect dirt, no matter how much silicone you can wipe off. It is an oil.

If it is an oil, would the Teflon based dry lube like the dupont mentioned above work any better?

 

[SrC]

If it is an oil, would the Teflon based dry lube like the dupont mentioned above work any better?

Teflon is great in any type of lubricant. Oil, Grease or an evaporating Dry Lube can have Teflon in it.. But, for the purpose of CVD joints, I specifically been using a dry wax based Lube ( Dupont Chain Saver has Teflon and Chrome Moly additives) when it dries it lubes and doesn't collect dirt and grit as a grease or oil will. It is not thick enough for bearings though.
FYI, you can buy pure Teflon and mix with your own lubricants also.
Enjoy

 

[slick2500]

Teflon is a very slick lube additive. It can be found in an oil, grease or even a self drying lube that doesn't collect dirt. Generally, is found in a wax based dry lube. DUPONT Chain Saver dry chain lube has teflon and a chrome moly that drys to a waxy film. Wax sheds dirt and water. That's what I've been using. I use it on my bicycle chains. And they never rust or gunk up with dirt at all. The stuff has a 3k mile interval for motorcycle use. So I would say it is pretty durable. It's safe to use on rubber also? I use it mostly on all my RC cvd joints and also the dog bone ends for what it's worth. I just let it dry before I assemble the parts. I even tried it on the pillow balls. It's very waterproof. New out of the box, Arma puts oil on the front cvd's. MIP uses black grease on their CVD parts also. Used sparingly, the pins and barrels wear better, but attracts some grit. I like the dry lube. Some have stated to run the cvd's with no lube at all. Seen a video about using no lube. I don't agree. Parts will wear out fast. There's alot of friction a these joints. Many people just blob grease into the cvd jojnts. That's worse than no grease at all if you ask me.


I imagine a silicone spray. But again that will leave some residual behind. Attracting dust. Air compressor and a towel to dry is all you should do. At least silicone spray won't attack the bearings and hinge pins etc. And silicone won't harm any rubber either. But it will collect dirt, no matter how much silicone you can wipe off. It is an oil.

That's the same stuff I have been using.

 

[PaPa Thorn]

I run it through puddles.

 

[rcmadman]

Hi, I was reading about dry lube with Teflon in and I was wondering if this would be any good for the CVD joints and any pivot joints etc.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/FINISH-LINE-Teflon-Plus-Lube/dp/B07P8TZ6JS
Also, could you recommend any lube for bearings, thanks!
(Another thing is that I saw many people talking about compressed air while cleaning their car and I was wondering what is a cheap, but good, option for air compressors)

 

[Adamj804]

Hi, I was reading about dry lube with Teflon in and I was wondering if this would be any good for the CVD joints and any pivot joints etc.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/FINISH-LINE-Teflon-Plus-Lube/dp/B07P8TZ6JS
Also, could you recommend any lube for bearings, thanks!
(Another thing is that I saw many people talking about compressed air while cleaning their car and I was wondering what is a cheap, but good, option for air compressors)

I bought a Porter Cable pancake compressor from Lowe’s for $99 with a $15 hose and attatachment kit. All I use it for is RC.

 

[rcmadman]

Nice thanks looks good, might look into it or something else

 

[Notorious J]

Hi, I was reading about dry lube with Teflon in and I was wondering if this would be any good for the CVD joints and any pivot joints etc.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/FINISH-LINE-Teflon-Plus-Lube/dp/B07P8TZ6JS
Also, could you recommend any lube for bearings, thanks!
(Another thing is that I saw many people talking about compressed air while cleaning their car and I was wondering what is a cheap, but good, option for air compressors)

The dry lube is a great idea for those pivoting joints. I use one from Jig-A-Loo. For bearings, ideal you want to use a good silicone grease when cleaning and maintaining sealed ones. If you have the steel shield variety, a drop of 3-n-1 after cleaning should keep them running pretty smooth. I've packed a bit a grease in those as well, but the rubber sealed tend to keep the grease in, and dirt out, much better.

 

[rcmadman]

Thanks a lot, silicone grease for bearings sounds good when cleaning and maintaining. Probably going to buy some rubber sealed bearings for my arrma senton 3s to keep the grease in. (Also bought some dry lube for joints which will be great after cleaning my car) One question, do you have to take everything apart and lube each part or can you just apply it on top of the cvd and pivot joints?

silicone grease when cleaning and maintaining sealed ones

Could you use marine grease?

 

[JrodzRc]

I use dawn dishwash soap n I would also use simple green n I use an air compressor n I use Wd-40

 

[SrC]

I clean my Rig the way Adam Drake cleans his.
Marine grease in my basher bearings. . Syn. Oil in my race rig bearings

 

[DoNoHarm]

I just spray it off with an air compressor after every run. Every once in awhile I’ll use some 409 combined with air to really clean it, and for the bearings I just toss them all into a plastic container full of brake clean.

 

[Joseph Donkers]

I’d like to add, someone once told me that WD40 can be a bad thing if you use it as a lubricant for bearings or moving parts. If this is the wrong thread for that let me know I’m new here.