How do you clean your RC?

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I think I fried 2 receivers because I was rinsing with water. There are lots of videos that do this, but it obviously wasn't working for me. Now I just use a brush and vacuum cleaner with micro vacuum attachments. A little WD-40 in joints that get particularly dirty.
 
For me, I usually just use a paint brush to get rid of the dirt or sand before putting my car into my trunk. I use WD-40 to clean my bearings and apply white lithium grease after I dry it out. At home, I use a portable vacuum cleaner to suck out any debris that get stuck, usually under the battery tray and motor mount.
 
For me, I usually just use a paint brush to get rid of the dirt or sand before putting my car into my trunk. I use WD-40 to clean my bearings and apply white lithium grease after I dry it out. At home, I use a portable vacuum cleaner to suck out any debris that get stuck, usually under the battery tray and motor mount.
I basically do the same procedure. (y) A shop vac or vacuum is better than compressed. Blowing air can push dirt within the bearings and components. This can work against you. Compressed air is fine, just not at the bearings. I always use an RPM "Bearing Blaster" to clean and lube bearings. Everyone should have this. Been using this for 20+ years. I have both the Large and small version. Don't over grease/pack your bearings. 1/3 fill is all you need . Over greased/packed bearings can blow out the seals, and cause heat and galling. The balls will slide, not roll. More is not better in this way.
I only use WD40 to displace water/moisture from water flooded bearings. I don't consider it a well enough "solvent".
I use solvents(brake cleaner or similar) to clean bearings. I don't use Lithium grease on bearings. Lithium grease dries out and isn't the best with wet environments. I tried many and most lubes. I prefer a Marine grade grease or any NGLI grade 1 or 2 or a Bearing oil depending on the bearings position, rig and where used. WD40 has some solvent properties, but leaves behind a film that gums up fine components like very small RC BB's. It tends to mitigate the final lube's properties used in the Ball bearings.
But we all have differing methods. If it works for you. That's good also.
:cool:
 
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Simple green, plastic brush, RPM bearing blaster, compressed air, and light oil to the bearings. I usually do a complete tear down to really to get my rigs clean every so often.
 
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My cleaning procedure (depending on how dirty it is of course):

1. Upside down shake with body removed
2. Hit it with the leaf blower to remove most dry debris (I don't have compressed air)
3. Spray with Simple green (kind of avoiding the electronics)
4. Scrub wheels if needed
5. Rinse down with garden hose (again avoiding the electronics, not directly hitting them with the water and yes I know they are "water proof")
6. Repeat clean if required
7. Hit it again with the leaf blower till most water stop coming out.
8. Connect battery and run up to check its all good
9. Spray metal parts with WD40 (screws, hinges, axles, cvd's etc) to disperse remainder of moisture. I sometimes use Selleys Ezy Glide which is a dry non-oily lube.
10. Place RC in dry spot like inside house by the wood fire for a day or night or until the wife complains.

If it's only got dry sand or grass debris on it, I'll avoid wetting it and only use leaf blower. The cordless leaf blower is one of the best tools I've bought recently. This method works for me.
I also tend to clean components as I disassemble it for repairs.
I basically do the same procedure. (y) A shop vac or vacuum is better than compressed. Blowing air can push dirt within the bearings and components. This can work against you. Compressed air is fine, just not at the bearings. I always use an RPM "Bearing Blaster" to clean and lube bearings. Everyone should have this. Been using this for 20+ years. I have both the Large and small version. Don't over grease/pack your bearings. 1/3 fill is all you need . Over greased/packed bearings can blow out the seals, and cause heat and galling. The balls will slide, not roll. More is not better in this way.
I only use WD40 to displace water/moisture from water flooded bearings. I don't consider it a well enough "solvent".
I use solvents(brake cleaner or similar) to clean bearings. I don't use Lithium grease on bearings. Lithium grease dries out and isn't the best with wet environments. I tried many and most lubes. I prefer a Marine grade grease or any NGLI grade 1 or 2 or a Bearing oil depending on the bearings position, rig and where used. WD40 has some solvent properties, but leaves behind a film that gums up fine components like very small RC BB's. It tends to mitigate the final lube's properties used in the Ball bearings.
But we all have differing methods. If it works for you. That's good also.
:cool:

I'd never seen those bearing blasters before. Just ordered one. thanks for the info.
 
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Got a bnew kit. I used wd40 on screws after running on a wet road cause it rusted immediately. Found out that this will make plastics soft thus making screws kinda loose. I'm gonna stay away from that normal wd40 if I were you. Gonna try the silicone variant and see how it goes.
 
Never been a fan of WD40. I, like many, have it around the house. It is cheap stuff. I may use it as a solvent once in a while. But what's left behind becomes bad for bearings and the like IMHO. It is the jack of all trades ...master of none, type of lube or whatever it claims to be. WD just displaces water, and will ruin a wet dream while doing it. It is marketed as a do it all product these days. But it was designed to displace moisture in Old school Distributor Caps and Points on car engines of the 50's and 1960's. WD means Water Displacement. Remember this and you will find little use for it. Compressed air, or blower of any type is best to dry off your rig IMHO. Metal fasteners will always rust when you get them wet and the hexes will strip out easily. Stainless Steel fasteners are too soft for many applications so the hexes strip out and they bend from impacts easily. Have an extra bag of 12.9 grade steel fasteners on hand and use only SS rubber sealed bearings if you like the wet bashing scene and just deal with it. I would not pressure wash any of my RC rigs. OVERKILL. A hose on low stream and carefully used is the best option along with a paint brush. I use my PW on my scale cars and around the yard etc. That's what it is for. A rig does not have to be out of box pristine if that is what you are trying to do with it after every dirty, muddy, and wet bash. Hope this helps. There are many other opinions on this. Govern yourself accordingly. :cool:
 
Never been a fan of WD40. I, like many, have it around the house. It is cheap stuff. I may use it as a solvent once in a while. But what's left behind becomes bad for bearings and the like IMHO. It is the jack of all trades ...master of none, type of lube or whatever it claims to be. WD just displaces water, and will ruin a wet dream while doing it. It is marketed as a do it all product these days. But it was designed to displace moisture in Old school Distributor Caps and Points on car engines of the 50's and 1960's. WD means Water Displacement. Remember this and you will find little use for it. Compressed air, or blower of any type is best to dry off your rig IMHO. Metal fasteners will always rust when you get them wet and the hexes will strip out easily. Stainless Steel fasteners are too soft for many applications so the hexes strip out and they bend from impacts easily. Have an extra bag of 12.9 grade steel fasteners on hand and use only SS rubber sealed bearings if you like the wet bashing scene and just deal with it. I would not pressure wash any of my RC rigs. OVERKILL. A hose on low stream and carefully used is the best option along with a paint brush. I use my PW on my scale cars and around the yard etc. That's what it is for. A rig does not have to be out of box pristine if that is what you are trying to do with it after every dirty, muddy, and wet bash. Hope this helps. There are many other opinions on this. Govern yourself accordingly. :cool:
About all WD40 is good for really is cleaning stuff. I could make a list a mile long of other products that work better than WD40.
 
About all WD40 is good for really is cleaning stuff. I could make a list a mile long of other products that work better than WD40.
I don't even use it for that. I honestly can't remember the last time I used it or for what. I'm sure I have, just not important enough to remember. The rigs never see it.
 
I have WD and so many other products. I may use WD to remove permanent marker ink or chewing gum or soft adhesive. I have several cans of WD that have sat around unused, that they are dead cans with no pressure. That's how little I use it. Some like the smell. I hate the smell and it lingers. It attracts dust easily as well. I think that goes against you with an RC rig. But everyone is different.:LOL:
 
I have WD and so many other products. I may use WD to remove permanent marker ink or chewing gum or soft adhesive. I have several cans of WD that have sat around unused, that they are dead cans with no pressure. That's how little I use it. Some like the smell. I hate the smell and it lingers. It attracts dust easily as well. I think that goes against you with an RC rig. But everyone is different.:LOL:
It’s good for boiling plastic parts in ?
 
I have WD and so many other products. I may use WD to remove permanent marker ink or chewing gum or soft adhesive. I have several cans of WD that have sat around unused, that they are dead cans with no pressure. That's how little I use it. Some like the smell. I hate the smell and it lingers. It attracts dust easily as well. I think that goes against you with an RC rig. But everyone is different.:LOL:
I can almost guarantee I have at least one can so old it has the infamous rusted bottom.
 
I could see using WD to loosen a stuck Nitro engine piston that's been sitting around for too long unused. That has worked for me with a heat gun if I don't have PB Rust Blaster around. Never use it to store a nitro engine however. It will seize up for sure.
BTW, WD40 ruins lock cylinders, pins, and tumblers. Any real Locksmith will tell you that. WD will appear to free the lock Cyl. up but you better flush it well with a good graphite lock lube before the WD dries out. WD gums up with age.:cool:
 
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