How do you solder these or protect the solder?

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parcou

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OK

I am not good at soldering and hate it. I buy the Spektrum IC5 although they cost more it is easier for me to have the ends in the holder and the half cup to solder the wire to. Last I just slide the cap over it and done.

The blue EC5 connectors are cheap and I can get a lot more for the money but I am challenged with those soldering in the bowl-like cup of the connector...I'm messy and never cleanly done. Last, I have to hammer them into the blue housing. Sorry just not easy for me compared to the IC5 (not adding the smart wire to any)

Then I found these for sale...they are already in the blue housing and have the half cup-like connector like the IC5. What they do not say or I do not understand is how I hide or protect the wire at the soldered connection.

Do I use heat shrink? Is that good enough for bashing it not in the housing? Normal blue connection the wire end in hammered down in the harness and soldered connection not see. Not in this case...?

1647972044436.png


Bullet Connectors Pre-Installed in Plastic Housing​

  • Pre-installed 5MM bullets into EC5 compatible housing
  • Capable of 120 continuous amps w/ 10 awg wire
  • 5MM bullet connectors
  • Ergonomically pleasing and easy to grip
  • Protected to avoid shorting and reverse polarity
  • Superior technology suited to today's advanced applications
  • Designed with convenience and reliability in mind
Each unit contains (5) blue plastic housings, (10) installed 5MM male bullets
 
That's kind of weird - never seen those connectors before with the contacts pre-inserted.

As far as protecting the wires, I think heat shrink is really your only option here.

For what it's worth, I don't have an issue with the connectors where the contacts are inserted after soldering:

For connectors where the contacts are inserted from the front, a punch works great for the female side - for the male side, I slide a female connector over and then use a punch so I don't spread the prongs.

For connectors where the contacts are inserted from the rear, this tool is invaluable: https://www.progressiverc.com/products/prc-ec5-assembly-punch

Also, just a tip - when you solder IC5 or these pre-inserted connectors, place the opposite side on - this helps stabilize the contacts in the plastic housing and also acts somewhat as a heatsink.
 
Oh wow, that's a new one for me as well.

Yes, heat shrink to cover the solder cups would be required and is no issue.
I hope the plastic doesn't melt. I'd insert a mate on the other side to maintain the position during soldering.

I've moved to QS8 but it's the same concept.
 
That's kind of weird - never seen those connectors before with the contacts pre-inserted.

As far as protecting the wires, I think heat shrink is really your only option here.

For what it's worth, I don't have an issue with the connectors where the contacts are inserted after soldering:

For connectors where the contacts are inserted from the front, a punch works great for the female side - for the male side, I slide a female connector over and then use a punch so I don't spread the prongs.

For connectors where the contacts are inserted from the rear, this tool is invaluable: https://www.progressiverc.com/products/prc-ec5-assembly-punch

Also, just a tip - when you solder IC5 or these pre-inserted connectors, place the opposite side on - this helps stabilize the contacts in the plastic housing and also acts somewhat as a heatsink.
I agree with you on the EC/IC's. I always thought legit ones always get the bullets soldered first. Then the bullets are pressed into the connector jackets. Some get pressed in from the front... some pressed in from the back. Depending on the style of the EC/IC connectors. They can vary.
I found that if I removed wires from my EC/IC 's that the jackets melt easily. I always use XT 90's, and have unsoldered many EC's. They melt and deform.
Always need shrink wrap to finish off your soldering joints. Some XT90's have an end cap to snap in place over the solder joints. Some of them have failed and pop off. I usually use a drop of CA to install them now. Or I may opt to just use shrink wrap. Depending.
And depending on the gage of the wire I will use heat shrink wrap and also use the endcap. Most secure way. If it can fit.
If your soldering XT90's, and the joint not very neat, sometimes the endcap will not even snap in place.
 
Last edited:
That's kind of weird - never seen those connectors before with the contacts pre-inserted.

As far as protecting the wires, I think heat shrink is really your only option here.

For what it's worth, I don't have an issue with the connectors where the contacts are inserted after soldering:

For connectors where the contacts are inserted from the front, a punch works great for the female side - for the male side, I slide a female connector over and then use a punch so I don't spread the prongs.

For connectors where the contacts are inserted from the rear, this tool is invaluable: https://www.progressiverc.com/products/prc-ec5-assembly-punch

Also, just a tip - when you solder IC5 or these pre-inserted connectors, place the opposite side on - this helps stabilize the contacts in the plastic housing and also acts somewhat as a heatsink.

Awesome.....thx for the tips and the tool! Did not know about putting the other end of the connection on so this helps the knowledge. Thx!

I would put heatshrink over the connections/soldered wire. My soldering heat gun should arrive this week hopefully🤞, so I can also start soldering lipo’s.

Thx Boss
Oh wow, that's a new one for me as well.

Yes, heat shrink to cover the solder cups would be required and is no issue.
I hope the plastic doesn't melt. I'd insert a mate on the other side to maintain the position during soldering.

I've moved to QS8 but it's the same concept.
Thz again Boss..
Always a good idea to plus in the opposing connector. It will help keep the soldered part from melting the plastic around it and help hold it straight if the plastic does get softened by the heat.
Thx my Man
 
OK

I am not good at soldering and hate it. I buy the Spektrum IC5 although they cost more it is easier for me to have the ends in the holder and the half cup to solder the wire to. Last I just slide the cap over it and done.

The blue EC5 connectors are cheap and I can get a lot more for the money but I am challenged with those soldering in the bowl-like cup of the connector...I'm messy and never cleanly done. Last, I have to hammer them into the blue housing. Sorry just not easy for me compared to the IC5 (not adding the smart wire to any)

Then I found these for sale...they are already in the blue housing and have the half cup-like connector like the IC5. What they do not say or I do not understand is how I hide or protect the wire at the soldered connection.

Do I use heat shrink? Is that good enough for bashing it not in the housing? Normal blue connection the wire end in hammered down in the harness and soldered connection not see. Not in this case...?

View attachment 207972

Bullet Connectors Pre-Installed in Plastic Housing​

  • Pre-installed 5MM bullets into EC5 compatible housing
  • Capable of 120 continuous amps w/ 10 awg wire
  • 5MM bullet connectors
  • Ergonomically pleasing and easy to grip
  • Protected to avoid shorting and reverse polarity
  • Superior technology suited to today's advanced applications
  • Designed with convenience and reliability in mind
Each unit contains (5) blue plastic housings, (10) installed 5MM male bullets
Make sure the blue plastic is heat resistant or they will melt and yes heat shrink is always a good idea on any solder job.
 
That's going to be a challenge with the pins being in the plastic holder/connectors...
I would strongly suggest you test and see if those pins are really fully seated... if not, just take them out of the plastic before soldering.

For me- I drill some 1/4" holes in a scrap piece of 2x4" wood to use as a secure holder of the pins while I solder on the cables.

You're going to sacrifice one or two of those plastic holders for sure. Just seeing if you can pull the pins out and/or during soldering to see if those will handle the heat.
I use a 100Watt soldering gun, it helps greatly for this kind of work.
IMG_20220208_134510.jpg
 
Last edited:
Then I found these for sale...they are already in the blue housing and have the half cup-like connector like the IC5. What they do not say or I do not understand is how I hide or protect the wire at the soldered connection.

Do I use heat shrink? Is that good enough for bashing it not in the housing? Normal blue connection the wire end in hammered down in the harness and soldered connection not see.
Wow this seems like a great addition to the EC5 lineup, assuming the housings are heat resistant. Yep, heatshrink over the exposed portions which is very similar to older XT60 and Deans connectors. I actually just picked up a bunch of XT90's because I prefer to solder connectors like this. They are also much easier to re-use and desolder.

Very cool, thanks for sharing!
 
@jkflow knows his soldering.:)

Follow his lead.
My burnt fingertips might disagree with that!

In general , I dislike those soldering guns but they have their application.
Whenever you solder large wires you need to be able to transfer a lot of heat i.e. you need something that can provide this backup.

For wires, I always use my go to cheapo:
https://smile.amazon.com/Weller-SP80NUS-80-Watts-Soldering-Iron/dp/B00B3SG796
Just pure mass in that tip that will make soldering A LOT easier.

Similar models from other vendors are ok, just stay above 80W for battery wires. Get yourself a stand as well but what comes with it works.

I do use a 'soldering station (Hakko) for everything else, but they are a pain on large wires.
 
My burnt fingertips might disagree with that!

In general , I dislike those soldering guns but they have their application.
Whenever you solder large wires you need to be able to transfer a lot of heat i.e. you need something that can provide this backup.

For wires, I always use my go to cheapo:
https://smile.amazon.com/Weller-SP80NUS-80-Watts-Soldering-Iron/dp/B00B3SG796
Just pure mass in that tip that will make soldering A LOT easier.

Similar models from other vendors are ok, just stay above 80W for battery wires. Get yourself a stand as well but what comes with it works.

I do use a 'soldering station (Hakko) for everything else, but they are a pain on large wires.
The better soldering stations will provide temp monitoring at the tip and a temp recovery light/indicator to guide you when the set temp drops and then recovers as you solder.
 
That's kind of weird - never seen those connectors before with the contacts pre-inserted.

As far as protecting the wires, I think heat shrink is really your only option here.

For what it's worth, I don't have an issue with the connectors where the contacts are inserted after soldering:

For connectors where the contacts are inserted from the front, a punch works great for the female side - for the male side, I slide a female connector over and then use a punch so I don't spread the prongs.

For connectors where the contacts are inserted from the rear, this tool is invaluable: https://www.progressiverc.com/products/prc-ec5-assembly-punch

Also, just a tip - when you solder IC5 or these pre-inserted connectors, place the opposite side on - this helps stabilize the contacts in the plastic housing and also acts somewhat as a heatsink.
I just bought that tool. I went through two connectors trying to get ONE seated. If I had this tool... WOW.
 
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