How long to fit new chassis?

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STARman

Active Member
Messages
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Location
Hampshire, UK
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Typhon 6s
Evening all. How long should I realistically set aside to swap over to a new chassis plate on a Typhon 6s (V3)? I'm new to Arrma RCs and so far found them really good to work on (abundance of loctite aside) but hopefully I can release the whole front and rear end on the old chassis with a few screws rather than a complete strip down?

Any pointers are welcome ?
 
If it's a straight swap with no cleaning set aside 1:30-2hrs to be safe, if you're unfamiliar with the process. If you've done it a few times you can do it in about 30-45min. I highly recommend taking the time to clean and inspect as much as you can while it's apart.
 
I’ll second Mt.Duke’s estimates. It’s actually a pretty straightforward swap. I swapped my in an evening easily. I just attacked it in sections: rear, front, then center. It’s really not too bad.

Good luck! (y)
 
Hey STARman you will want to buy a decent set of hex drivers to help with some of the tougher screws. Maybe a solder iron or mini torch heating the steering post, and motor mount screws.
 
Hey Jimbobjr, thanks for the heads up. I've already picked up a mini torch to battle with motor mount screws. I've also got a set of EDS hex drivers which so far are holding up pretty well. My battles with motor mount screws are documented in the 6s forum, never have I seen so much loctite used in such a small space - literally had to cut the screw head off !
 
With an electric driver, it's pretty easy to do in under an hour. I just replaced my chassis and it was the first time I had everything off like that on the outcast. I've pulled the front/center/rear off to work on them or replace bulkheads, but never had everything off all at once. Just be careful putting the short screws back in for the receiver box/battery box/side skirts as they aren't threading into much and are very easy to strip. I had my clutch set on it's lowest setting, but some still stripped in the skirts as I've had those off a couple times.
 
My new replacement chassis and motor mount arrived in the post today so I set to taking the front and rear bulkheads off. It really wasn't too much trouble at all and not as daunting as I thought, even though the pinion gear took some persuasion but with my new favourite tool (Dremel versatip torch) it eventually came free. The chassis I bought came with side skirts, battery tray, receiver box, braces and ESC mount so hopefully will cut down on reassembly time, only the f&r input diff gear bearings to replace and I should be done!
 
Thanks Mr.Duke, I've been swapping the bearings over for rubber shielded ones and changing diff oil whilst I'm at it so hopefully should be a straight swap over, just never done it before ?

I would add that it will go much quicker if you have a good said of drivers like some MIP bits. Those can mean not stripping bolts which always add time.
 
Also @STARman make sure you swap the four steering bushings for bearings if you haven't already. I find the steering is the biggest pita when doing this type of thing, but once you've had your first full go at it, seems like a walk in the park each time after. But the park is dark and full of murderers and rapists and the boogeyman is lurking around every corner. Sorry, tmi
 
?
No, not yet changed the steering bushings over but the bearings did come in the kit I ordered so will be tackling that whilst the car is in bits....what could go wrong ?
 
Also @STARman make sure you swap the four steering bushings for bearings if you haven't already. I find the steering is the biggest pita when doing this type of thing, but once you've had your first full go at it, seems like a walk in the park each time after. But the park is dark and full of murderers and rapists and the boogeyman is lurking around every corner. Sorry, tmi
Umm, I'll stay away from that park for now.
 
I decided to stay out of the park and not change the steering bushings this time around, I'll save that for another day..

If I wasn't changing all the diff oil and replacing bearings along the way a chassis swap didn't take all that long really, but when I plugged in a battery and gave it a run I honestly thought bits would fly off all over the place but to my surprise it didn't! ?
 
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