Granite How my mesh for a 1st timer

[ADD]

Had to replace ESC ,Motor , and Steering Servo.. It's time with electric . Hoes my mesh?? The Truck seems to have more snap now also

 

[Jordan10R]

My crystal is a little foggy as I can't see ur mesh lol

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

Pictures please.

Doing mesh takes practice. I've done a few plastic spurs getting it right. Thought I had stripped one just now landing a backflip under full throttle but nope, rear diff instead I keep a couple of spare fully assembled diffs handy. They are easy to replace.

 

[Jordan10R]

Pictures please.

Doing mesh takes practice. I've done a few plastic spurs getting it right. Thought I had stripped one just now landing a backflip under full throttle but nope, rear diff instead I keep a couple of spare fully assembled diffs handy. They are easy to replace.

It's hard to even tell mesh by picture. It's more about feel and sound to me.

 

[Engineer]

Also, plastic spurs are sometimes not perfectly concentric and you may have a high spot - so be sure to test the mesh in several areas.

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

Yeah that's true. The picture in the manual is still a good guide to see how the teeth should be sitting against each other. Plus my Surpass Hobby motor meshed up is not as noisy as its Spectrum equivalent. The Spectrum motors seen to be very 'clicky'.

 

[slick2500]

Also, plastic spurs are sometimes not perfectly concentric and you may have a high spot - so be sure to test the mesh in several areas.

Metal spurs aren't any better.

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

Also, plastic spurs are sometimes not perfectly concentric and you may have a high spot - so be sure to test the mesh in several areas.

Really That's dangerous and something I haven't found yet. Maybe the pinion will just wear it down until it's perfectly round

 

[Velodromed]

Really That's dangerous and something I haven't found yet. Maybe the pinion will just wear it down until it's perfectly round

Naw man it’s very subtle… I click real slow like though each tooth and ANY SLIGHTLY rough points I use 800 grit sand paper folded tight to sand between the teeth…constantly double checking so I don’t take off too much. I will go over the entire spur and also the pinion and the result is very smooth action.

This takes time but I think is worth it.

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

Naw man it’s very subtle… I click real slow like though each tooth and ANY SLIGHTLY rough points I use 800 grit sand paper folded tight to sand between the teeth…constantly double checking so I don’t take off too much. I will go over the entire spur and also the pinion and the result is very smooth action.

This takes time but I think is worth it.

I don't have that level of patience. If the mesh looks and sounds right with a few clicks I'll leave it at that. My original spur stripping was down to lack of experience more than inconsistencies in spur quality.

 

[ADD]

Pictures please.

Doing mesh takes practice. I've done a few plastic spurs getting it right. Thought I had stripped one just now landing a backflip under full throttle but nope, rear diff instead I keep a couple of spare fully assembled diffs handy. They are easy to replace.

I apologize

My crystal is a little foggy as I can't see ur mesh lol

. It seems to have not uploaded the video . An I'm not to tech savvy so bare with me.

It's hard to even tell mesh by picture. It's more about feel and sound to me.

I won't allow me to upload a video

 

[Velodromed]

I don't have that level of patience. If the mesh looks and sounds right with a few clicks I'll leave it at that. My original spur stripping was down to lack of experience more than inconsistencies in spur quality.

It’s overkill of course. But It calms me down to zero in on something like that. So I just go with it.

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

It’s overkill of course. But It calms me down to zero in on something like that. So I just go with it.

Totally bro. I'm getting a lot more involved in wrenching than I ever thought I would. And a good mesh is worth taking time over.

 

[*420+3RC*]

I just use the receipt paper doubled over in between the pinion and spur. Roll it around slowly looking at the teeth to make sure its all same. With out ripping paper or jamming up. Seems like it about 1/8th of inch play before next tooth clicks. Just my .02

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

I use the paper method if I'm struggling to get my mesh tight enough (but not too tight). I've seen KT use that method and then SEND IT TO THE MOON so it must be legit.

 

[Velodromed]

I use the paper method if I'm struggling to get my mesh tight enough (but not too tight). I've seen KT use that method and then SEND IT TO THE MOON so it must be legit.

I just eye it and then go by feel mostly and check it all the way around many times slowly tooth by tooth. Even taking 1000 grit sandpaper to parts of the spur and make sure everything is even and smooth.
So far so good lol