How to easily revive chewed wheel hexes.

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Hub carrier is bricked. Garbage.:rolleyes:
Replace both sides, Stockers or HR's or other alloy brands.
Personally, I am fine with Plastic stockers.
Your call. Many run alloys. But technically even if an oversized BB, found in alloy variants, seizes up, damage/wear to the alloy hub carriers will happen also. From Galling. A much more expensive proposition, replacing Alloy hubs.. Watching your BB's closely will prevent this whether you run alloys or stockers. I feel lack of lube and/or cleaning the BB's more often yields the results you see here. Or just have spare BB's on hand and replace more often.
I buy these stock size Inner BB's in bulk packs for this reason. But I do clean out and relube all my BB's. Just give more attention to these Inner ones. All 6s rigs this happens to. Common IMHO. I clean out new BB's in many cases, and run my own grease/lube in them. Then, I know they are lubed well enough. BB's can come dry sometimes. And one really doesn't know what grease is in there if any, in many cases. I have seen many dry BB's out the package. No matter the brand. BB's are cheap gumball RC items.

>>>In some older AF threads, some have stated that running Front CVD's at the rear prevents/ reduces inner BB damage. Stating there is less dirt ingress at the Inner BB's????
I have done this to several rigs here.
But I don't see any difference.:unsure:
That aside, running Front CVD's at the rear does have other benefits.;)

All good info. Times like this I think I had it covered and did not with my checks. Yes, the outer was locked as well so I shelfed it until I can get all my parts to work on it at one time. I will replace the carriers not sure what direction I will go with stock or better yet. However to your point regardless of what I pick, if I would have caught this earlier I would not be here. Thought I was on point because with the 3S rigs I have at every 5x pack take out and check all the wheel bearings.

I underestimated the power of my first 4x4 6S rig that this Kraton has way more spin over the 3S so will check them after each run plus the area I bash it in full of dust and dirt. I do lube them and hit them with some COW's silicone spray & suspension parts after each run as well as SC1 all over the plastic and carriers. I know this is not the same as removal. I do have a strange feeling that my cleaning is 100% strength Simple Green could be drying them out when I spray over the rig when cleaning it.

I like to add grease to my BB when I do repack since I am in so much dirt...As a new EXB I looked over everything but as I think about it now I do not remember thinking too much about the bearings.

Thx

Yep, the rear BB always wear the quickest. Since I run mudguards (either buy or maken them yourself: very easy to do) I haven’t had one explode on me. What also helps is turn the wheels by hand from time to time to feel if the wheel stil turns and sounds OK (crunchy sound-> sand in bearing; a bit is still Ok but needs more regular check)

I clean my rig after each run since it sits on my office shelf so I want it clean... I need to get a better feel of spinning the wheels to what I have been doing in my spinning as I check it over. I have a bearing kit for the Kraton on hand keep stock but I will get a good feel on how it should feel once done....but will move to checking after each run.
 
@parcou, this is just normal 6s off road rig stuff. It's hard to catch this. Short of rebuilding the whole rig every single time after a bash.
Just not realistic.
Who does that anyway?:giggle:
 
I like the dependability of aluminum hub carriers, but the cost is something to think about. I bought HR carriers a few times and the last set I bought was cheap Chinesium eBay ones. The eBay ones use stock bearing sizes. The HR ones use a larger inner bearing. I’m torn on which is better.
 
All the good advice is given above.
I 2nd the alu hub carriers but you have to check all bearings i.e. how smooth is every wheel turning prior to each run.
They tend to be smooth right after hosing down the rig, but will freeze within a couple of days. Even alu hubs won't help, just cause more $$ damage if that happens.
 
Thx guys for all the great advice. I will decide tonight on Alum or stock carriers....but in the end, as SrC/JKflow I will have a closer eye on this new 6S after each run....but this Kraton and setup are working much harder. I have the time so I can check more.

Time to order parts whether that JRC or eBay...

Already ordered the M2C 17mm hex set 3500 which has a wider hex on the arms. I see now that is not the issue but since I paid for it no need to send it back will put it on the Kraton.

This hobby without this forum would be blinding for someone new to hobby grace RCs!

Thx all! Like N.Mango, taking notes!
 
Rule of thumb that I apply. Check bearings every 5 outings, if you encounter water or hose it down it's after every water encounter.
I keep any water away from all bearings.

Note: I have always found a wheel bearing going bad with this method, before it becomes a problem. Typically, I have to disassemble for other reasons and always check at that time as well.
 
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