Outcast How to improve steering range

[Crunchy Gears]

I can try the Monster Dork option to really get the whole system line up right so we don't have any difference between left and right for starters.

And for Crunchy Maybe it's not relevant for this issue but I made a picture from the horn that came with the servo. Here you see that the angle towards the servo saver is way of when you mount it on top. On the downside of the horn there is no space then you are stuck on the servo itself. So I really think the cars are not the same? Can you make a picture from your servo/horn/saver connection just to be sure?
For new readers: This is not the problem just a sub question for Crunchy!

View attachment 213340

Eh it's angled a little bit but it hasn't hurt anything.

Stock linkages. The arm runs the entire range of motion with the stock horn.

More travel is gained through a longer horn.

Centering is mechanical first. That means you center the servo horn how you like it, and adjust the front turnbuckles to line up right. This works every time, because you are centering the wheels to the servo's midpoint.

I mean this is technically true, but most transmitter trims have enough adjustment to be centered that way, long as you get it close. If the SLT3 can, the "better" dxc3 should be able to as well?

 

[bfrqrv]

Oke resume for today:

@Crunshy: your car must be different at least the hight of the servo and/or the hight of the linkage. Because there is no way I can putt the link above the horn with a reasonable angle.

@Monster Dork: I tried to adjust the turnbuckles at the front. That was my first time and because there is only 1 set of turn buckles you are changing the toe but also the camber. So I can adjust the front wheels so the center is the same as the center servo and center transmitter without using the trim, so thats good and the turning is the same and almost hit the mechanical physical limits of the steering. But then you have to compromise in camber and toe.

So still the only best way for me how it seems is to configure the best toe and camber, adjust the center with the trim and find a way to have a slightly more travel so I can reach the physical limits of the steering.

Remember its only a few degrees and when the wheels are of the ground it does hit the mechanical limits! Only when the car is on the ground you have overcome the resistance and then you need strength, a reasonable saver, but also enough travel to get those last degrees.

I tried everything on earth to get more travel but here isnt. I also have this exact on the original spektrum s652.

On a side note, is there a transmitter that somehow can get a wider travel on those standard servo's? Like 110 degrees instead of hardly 90?
I ordered a travel extender unit to test my theory, I know it sounds silly but while we go into the depth we only learning.

 

[Crunchy Gears]

Oke resume for today:

@Crunshy: your car must be different at least the hight of the servo and/or the hight of the linkage. Because there is no way I can putt the link above the horn with a reasonable angle.

@Monster Dork: I tried to adjust the turnbuckles at the front. That was my first time and because there is only 1 set of turn buckles you are changing the toe but also the camber. So I can adjust the front wheels so the center is the same as the center servo and center transmitter without using the trim, so thats good and the turning is the same and almost hit the mechanical physical limits of the steering. But then you have to compromise in camber and toe.

So still the only best way for me how it seems is to configure the best toe and camber, adjust the center with the trim and find a way to have a slightly more travel so I can reach the physical limits of the steering.

Remember its only a few degrees and when the wheels are of the ground it does hit the mechanical limits! Only when the car is on the ground you have overcome the resistance and then you need strength, a reasonable saver, but also enough travel to get those last degrees.

I tried everything on earth to get more travel but here isnt. I also have this exact on the original spektrum s652.

On a side note, is there a transmitter that somehow can get a wider travel on those standard servo's? Like 110 degrees instead of hardly 90?
I ordered a travel extender unit to test my theory, I know it sounds silly but while we go into the depth we only learning.

Can neither confirm or deny as I don't have the EXB but I had thought the only difference between the Outcast and Notorious servo mount is one is aluminum, and the other is composite?

Honestly I don't really see the problem with having it at a disadvantageous angle given how much torque these bigger servos can dish out. The servo saver will protect the linkages from damage in the event things are over torqued or go the wrong way?

They make 270° servos, I imagine you could get the extra throw you want with one of those

 

[a2lowvw]

I would disconnect the HR linkage from your servo saver and go through the steps to set steering end points. Watch how far the servo linkage moves each direction and see if the servo is turning further than it does when connected. Also now that the linkage is disconnected can you physically turn the front wheels further than you could with the servo hooked up? Does it seem to get tight and bind?

 

[bfrqrv]

@Crunchy The 270 degrees servo will not make any difference because its not the servo that makes the limited travel. It's limited by the transmitter code. This servo is 180 degrees but it hardly goes 90 and that's normal in these applications.

@a2lowvw The travel from the servo's comes a little bit short. I need a few degrees more so I can really push and draw the wheels in the maximum angle. Of course not too much but that we can configure with the endpoints. But again I think I am expecting too much and are trying to get the perfection in theory and in what I see.

My whole story started with the extreme weak servo saver those new models come with. When you are on reasonable speed the turn is as big as a football field. So I did the mod to the non adjustable servo aver and that works. That's the time you can think about a stronger servo because with a weak servo saver it has no use.

So I bought the stronger servo and then I ran into this problem of servo travel. Now I still don't have the perfect turns because I can turn the wheels mechanical just a little bit more while the servo is at his end of the travel. (This all is under load and with resistance, car on the ground )

I think we discussed it all so everyone thanks for your input, I learned a lot gin. I will report back here when I have my travel extender just to see if that gives what I search for.

The only thing I didn't hear are there transmitters that has a bigger influence on the travel of our servo's?

 

[morrjr71]

I did notice when I changed transmitters on one of my RC vehicles I had to reset the endpoints because the same servo was moving more with the new transmitter. IIRC, I this was on my Kraton 6s when I changed from a Spektrum SLT3 radio system to a Radiolink RC6GS 6 channel radio system. A different radio system might be a solution to your issue: you can get either a Radiolink or a FlySky GT5 radio system for under $80. Not only would you have better steering, there are a lot more settings available to really fine tune throttle, steering, and brakes, and more.

 

[bfrqrv]

Thanks for all the advise! I will look into different transmitters also. I did a test run today and I must say wow what a difference now with the stronger servo saver and the stronger servo itself. I noticed that my toe was zero after adjusting the turn buckles, but then the car is too nervous on the straight speed runs.
So I adjusted the front buckles again with some toe to correct that. The wheel turn is then lesser again because the expended toe, but the stronger saver and servo are compensating that big-time. I now don't need the whole travel in the steering because when it steers it goes.

Never the less I still will test with the servo expander module and maybe with a different transmitter, its all in the hobby!

@morrjr71 The transmitters you name like the Radiolink RC6GS are interchangeable with the spektrum receiver or do I need to have a separate receiver also?

 

[a2lowvw]

edit, just googled travel extender as I didn’t realize they were a thing

 

[morrjr71]

Thanks for all the advise! I will look into different transmitters also. I did a test run today and I must say wow what a difference now with the stronger servo saver and the stronger servo itself. I noticed that my toe was zero after adjusting the turn buckles, but then the car is too nervous on the straight speed runs.
So I adjusted the front buckles again with some toe to correct that. The wheel turn is then lesser again because the expended toe, but the stronger saver and servo are compensating that big-time. I now don't need the whole travel in the steering because when it steers it goes.

Never the less I still will test with the servo expander module and maybe with a different transmitter, its all in the hobby!

@morrjr71 The transmitters you name like the Radiolink RC6GS are interchangeable with the spektrum receiver or do I need to have a separate receiver also?

You need a new receiver, which comes with the transmitter. You can run up to 10 different RC vehicles with the Radiolink, and additional receivers are only $18-22, depending on how many channels you need.

By the way, the RC6GS has three times the range of most RC transmitters - 600M vs. 200M.

 

[bfrqrv]

Today I installed the servo travel expander and its all very good. What a change we made here with a stronger server, stronger servo-saver and the expander. The Outcast 6s is way way better then it is out the box. I thought I will give feedback maybe for others that are willing to invest a little to improve the car. Its so strong off road and the circles are short. The stock one makes circles as big as a football field when you stay on the gas.
Straight driving is a little bit twitchy even with almost zero toe.

Did you guys change camber in these vehicles? I noticed that the camber is quiet much in front.