Kraton How to NOT scratch red anodized parts (Shock bodies, Wheel Hexes, etc)?

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nyev

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When working on my Kraton EXB build I'm finding I can't help scratching the red anodized surface of the shock bodies and wheel hexes, when applying my wrench directly to the red anodized paint. Especially with the wheel hexes as the factory red loctite requires some torque to get the grub screws free. I'm more concerned with the shock bodies however since they are visible, whereas the wheel hexes are covered by the wheels.

Any thoughts/ideas on how to protect the red anodized surfaces of Arrma shock bodies and wheel hexes while wrenching on them? Or, is this just unavoidable? Thanks!
 
When working on my Kraton EXB build I'm finding I can't help scratching the red anodized surface of the shock bodies and wheel hexes, when applying my wrench directly to the red anodized paint. Especially with the wheel hexes as the factory red loctite requires some torque to get the grub screws free. I'm more concerned with the shock bodies however since they are visible, whereas the wheel hexes are covered by the wheels.

Any thoughts/ideas on how to protect the red anodized surfaces of Arrma shock bodies and wheel hexes while wrenching on them? Or, is this just unavoidable? Thanks!
What are you using to hold them? If you are using a normal pair of pliers or vice grips then that is the problem.
 
For the wheel hexes, just leave the wheel/tires on while you take out the grub screw. It holds the hex in place and gives you something big to hold onto.

For shock bodies, I'm using the Tekno shock rod/ball end tool which provides enough grip to hold the body in place while tightening the shock cap without marring the body.
 
Yes, I was using pliers.... I suppose I need to invest in a set of the right sized wrenches? What size for the Shock bodies and wheel hexes?
 
When working on my Kraton EXB build I'm finding I can't help scratching the red anodized surface of the shock bodies and wheel hexes, when applying my wrench directly to the red anodized paint. Especially with the wheel hexes as the factory red loctite requires some torque to get the grub screws free. I'm more concerned with the shock bodies however since they are visible, whereas the wheel hexes are covered by the wheels.

Any thoughts/ideas on how to protect the red anodized surfaces of Arrma shock bodies and wheel hexes while wrenching on them? Or, is this just unavoidable? Thanks!
You could always park one on the shelf and have a second for bashing. Not very economical, but the shelfer would always be looking good for pics. Honestly, it's just part of owning a basher. They can't look new for very long. The springs on the shocks will start wearing away at the anodization too, so try not to sweat having to work on them.
 
Thanks, I've been debating whether to buy a shock tool (was looking at the Tekno one) but was hesitating as it's a bit pricey. Looks like it's worth picking one up. Thanks as well for the tip on using the wheel for the hexes.

Yeah I actually like the banged-up look that is certain to be achieved after it's first run.... But would be nice to have it looking shelf-ready prior to that!

Thanks all.
 
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