Vorteks How to remove broken shock shaft tip from eyelet

[luis_vorteks]

Hi!

After breaking the top eyelet of one of the front shocks last week, I replaced the shock body and went out for a ride today breaking the shaft of the same shock. I guess there was some damage I hadn't noticed.

As you can see in the picture, the shaft broke by the tip and was left inside the bottom piece (what's the name for that one?) Do you have any tips on how to remove it? I tried putting some pressure on it with a screwdriver and different keys to unscrew it with no success.

Feeling that I won't success in my challenge my next question is: Is there an equivalent to this part (https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR330536) for the Vorteks?

I've checked the spare parts price to rebuild my shock and unless I found a Vorteks AR330536 alternative, the (kind of) cheapest option will be to get a new pair of stock shocks:

• ARA330666 - 14,99 EUR
• ARA330704 - 6,99 EUR
• ARA330714 - 5,99 EUR (bought last week and already in use)

VS

• ARA330722 - 22,99 EUR a pair of new shocks with oil included

VS

• AR330536 - 6,99 EUR (if exists)

To which I'll have to add the cost of the spring anyway as I lost it (ARA330722) - 5,99 EUR

 

[Tex Koder]

Unfortunately, you're NOT going to get that tip of the shaft out...
Because it's not screwed in, it's bonded. So you will not be able to reuse that endlink, even if you manage to pull that broken tip out.

And, here's all the info you will ever want to know about 3S shocks and their alternatives >
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...d-blx-4s-shock-information-and-upgrades.7413/

 

[slick2500]

Unfortunately, you're NOT going to get that tip of the shaft out...
Because it's not screwed in, it's bonded. So you will not be able to reuse that endlink, even if you manage to pull that broken tip out.

And, here's all the info you will ever want to know about 3S shocks and their alternatives >
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...d-blx-4s-shock-information-and-upgrades.7413/

The Vorteks shafts are threaded, but it still is going to be near impossible to get that out.

 

[Tex Koder]

The Vorteks shafts are threaded, but it still is going to be near impossible to get that out.

no way... Is that right?

Then I made a mistake to order the OEM Arrma shocks for Granite/Senton... bummer.

 

[slick2500]

Hi!

After breaking the top eyelet of one of the front shocks last week, I replaced the shock body and went out for a ride today breaking the shaft of the same shock. I guess there was some damage I hadn't noticed.

View attachment 202953

As you can see in the picture, the shaft broke by the tip and was left inside the bottom piece (what's the name for that one?) Do you have any tips on how to remove it? I tried putting some pressure on it with a screwdriver and different keys to unscrew it with no success.

Feeling that I won't success in my challenge my next question is: Is there an equivalent to this part (https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR330536) for the Vorteks?

I've checked the spare parts price to rebuild my shock and unless I found a Vorteks AR330536 alternative, the (kind of) cheapest option will be to get a new pair of stock shocks:

• ARA330666 - 14,99 EUR
• ARA330704 - 6,99 EUR
• ARA330714 - 5,99 EUR (bought last week and already in use)

VS

• ARA330722 - 22,99 EUR a pair of new shocks with oil included

VS

• AR330536 - 6,99 EUR (if exists)

To which I'll have to add the cost of the spring anyway as I lost it (ARA330722) - 5,99 EUR

Might as well just buy the pair of shocks.

AR330536 is for the Senton, Granite, Typhon and Big Rock Crew Cab it is longer than the one that comes with the Vorteks.

no way... Is that right?

Then I made a mistake to order the OEM Arrma shocks for Granite/Senton... bummer

These are the stock shafts for the front of the Vorteks https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA330704

 

[luis_vorteks]

no way... Is that right?

Then I made a mistake to order the OEM Arrma shocks for Granite/Senton... bummer.

Yep, that's how it looked to me in the exploded view

Might as well just buy the pair of shocks.

Unfortunately it seems to be the more sensible option right now. I'll go with the same ones used in the stock car and eventually go with something sturdier if I break them too often

 

[Tex Koder]

That's good to know.
I'll have to make a mental note of it and make sure I buy these in the future, if I want to keep the stocks OEM stock.

Thank you guys!