How to set servo end points on the Fireteam

[dgitalchaos]

The servo on my Fireteam was not adjusted out of the box. I connected an amp meter to check how far out it was, and fully turned right, the stock S652 servo was drawing 1.3-1.5 amps. This is a remake video, but if you want to see the original, I can share that link.

 

[SrC]

Great video.
Have yet to set my new FT.
He uses the "Stall Amps" reading to know where the servo is stressed to the max. Exceeding the proper Endpoints. Then backs off till the amp draw drops. One method.
A servo that is frequently Stalled, will get hot and fry up. And Firma ESC's don't like that. Taxes the BEC circuit. It can fry also.

 

[John_]

The video above is a life saver, helped me set the end points on my new build effectively. TY

 

[John_]

The video above is a life saver, helped me set the end points on my new build effectively. TY

Ok, turns out I still need help setting my endpoints. I get into programming mode and can set the left turn endpoint, then go to the right and it does nothing. I have stripped 2 plastic servo horns trying to get this right. I can get the left set but not the right. Anybody have an idea what I'm doing wrong here? Thinking after the fact just now, do I maybe need to set the right first, then the left end point? Is that maybe what I have done wrong? I'm out of sequence perhaps?

This new high torque servo (333 oz/in @ 6 volts) will overpower anything, It'll torque the sh*t out of my steering linkage, and has stripped the internal teeth on two servo horns (arms). This is a Tekno 1/10 scale 4 WD custom build up but using Fireteam Spektrum transmitter/receiver in it I purchased from an Arrma RTR buster company.

 

[SrC]

Plastic servo horns on a 6s rig??
First thing I did was toss the Tekno MT410 "plastic" Servo arm for a metal one. It's a thing.
My SLT3 FT radio is lame and never even included Endpoint Adjustment instructions in the manual. Out the box St Endpoints were all jacked up.
Make sure you are doing all correctly. Maybe you just didn't center the servo arm while the servo was powered on and centered? Making sure the radio trim was zeroed out. If the arm is not centered, usually the endpoints are hard to get right on one side. Disassemble and start over.
The SLT3 3rd channel rocker switch adjusts the endpoints if you are in the Endpoint setting mode.
I must assume you know this already. Hopefully.

 

[John_]

Plastic servo horns on a 6s rig??
First thing I did was toss the Tekno MT410 "plastic" Servo arm for a metal one. It's a thing.
My SLT3 FT radio is lame and never even included Endpoint Adjustment instructions in the manual. Out the box St Endpoints were all jacked up.
Make sure you are doing all correctly. Maybe you just didn't center the servo arm while the servo was powered on and centered? Making sure the radio trim was zeroed out. If the arm is not centered, usually the endpoints are hard to get right on one side. Disassemble and start over.
The SLT3 3rd channel rocker switch adjusts the endpoints if you are in the Endpoint setting mode.
I must assume you know this already. Hopefully.

Not a 6s rig, runs on a 2s shorty 8.4 volt gen ace lipo, Tekno ET410 kit/new build. Yes I did center the servo and the servo horn/arm, on the third horn replacement after stripping two previously, the one on there now. Yes I am using the 3rd channel rocker as depicted in the video above. I might be one tooth from true center on the servo, I tried either way and this orientation appeared the best, or so I thought. I may try disassembling the linkage from servo to steering rack and re-center again. Maybe it is too far off to one side to correct with end point adjustments (both left and right), as that seems like the most plausible or logical answer to me now. Like I stated above, last try i could correct the left, but not the right. And I even shortened up the servo horn lever pivot point this time, re-drilled the hole closer to servo shaft to reduce throw @ linkage, and reduce the effective torque output by a small amount.

But thanks for taking time to reply. All comments or input is welcome. In the last 7 days I built two kits, the Tekno mentioned above and a 1/10 Team Associated 2 WD buggy. My first time building kits and it is very rewarding, assembling everything, every nut and screw. Assembling the shocks from individual parts, shaft, seals, o-rings, and the pistons, and filling with oil and air freeing. And trimming out the lexan body and painting them. My first two kits and I really enjoyed it. Assembled the 3 diffs (the Tekno 4 WD kit) from raw individual parts too, so you see and learn everything about them. The spider gears, the ring gear, filling with silicone lube to 90%. Choosing my pinion and spur gears, and the overall effective gear ratio. They came out looking very sharp too, my rattle can paint jobs. Ran the Tekno build today 1st time, fast as sh*t. A Hobbywing 5400 kv motor with turbo motor timing and a 1 second delay (for the top end speed rush). I re-programmed the ESC this morning. The associated build isn't nearly as fast, yet. A work in progress, tuning.

 

[SrC]

Building kits from scratch doesn't get any better with this hobby. Very satisfying when all is said and done. Especially with Quality TA and Tekno kits. Among the best manuals in the industry.
I hate having to rebuild a RTR that was built at a very fast paced factory, because of poor QC. I purposely take my time building kits.
Yeah sometimes just one servo spline "OFF" at the servo will alter steering dramatically.

 

[John_]

Building kits from scratch doesn't get any better with this hobby. Very satisfying when all is said and done. Especially with Quality TA and Tekno kits. Among the best manuals in the industry.
I hate having to rebuild a RTR that was built at a very fast paced factory, because of poor QC. I purposely take my time building kits.
Yeah sometimes just one servo spline "OFF" at the servo will alter steering dramatically.

you know that is what i was thinking multiple times while building my kits, that there is a woman in China somewhere who assembles and churns out a RTR from parts in maybe a couple hours. Or perhaps a 15 yo chinese teenager. Repetitive work done blazingly fast from experience. Arrmas are manufactured and assembled in China. The Tekno was the 2nd build and I flew thru it BC I had learned building the Team kit 1st. Many comments I have read here about near dry diffs in Arrma RTR (BLX) bashers and vehicles. Should be 80% full when you put on the cover and last diff spider gear. I guess my OC8 and Notorious diffs are low but I'm not pulling em apart just to check. When they hit 20 hours or so of collective run time, I will then. Disassemble, flush, inspect, replace parts as needed, re-fill. I did have to pull apart the Notorious 6s center diff as it was pukin lube. That truck is a freakin beast on 6s. Prob my fav, and i abuse it big time. One of the screws in the plastic center diff support was stripped from the factory. Prob driven too far in with a powered tool @ assembly in China. Fixed that too at a later date. replaced the support with a new piece.

I ordered a new motor for the Team buggy, a 7620kv Ruddog 540 series motor. rpm baby! Designed in Germany and assembled with Japan parts. Throw that low rpm torquer in the trash can. Good for a crawler or basher maybe. Very reasonable cost too, new motor was $55.