Hpi long rod ends question

[Jestone1]

Hi there, I've been reading about the mods that you can do to raise ride height w the nero.

One of them is installing HPI long rod ends/ball ends on the rods that connect the hubs with the rocker arms. However does anyone have the part no for these rod ends? I cant figure it out by looking at the pictures of rod ends

Thanks for any help.

 

[lonee]

I had used the Hobao spring holder. It´s lift up the car also.
My rod ends are original but wrapped with carbon-kevlar fiber.
No issues till yet.
On the other hand, if you lift up the car too much, you´ll change the center weight to upper position.
It will be not helpful for the controls in the curves.

 

[Jestone1]

I had used the Hobao spring holder. It´s lift up the car also.
My rod ends are original but wrapped with carbon-kevlar fiber.
No issues till yet.
On the other hand, if you lift up the car too much, you´ll change the center weight to upper position.
It will be not helpful for the controls in the curves.

Yes I know about the hobao spring cups, maybe I'm asking for the wrong part? I mean the ball end that connects the steering hub to the rocker arm. Apparently HPI makes a longer one... its shown in one of the youtube movies about upgrades.

I ordered hot racing gold springs. I really feel like this truck's suspension is too soft, especially in the rear. Also ride height is more truggy like, I want it to sit higher. I know that the handling will suffer but I bought it as a fun truck to bash around and not like I want to do technical stuff with it anyway

 

[lonee]

I tried the Hobao spring cups and with them the position of the spring is moving more to the end of the shock absorber.
Therefore the car can moved more in the high. To change the pushrod lengh will have the same effect just without to cut the edges for the lower suspension arms into the bottom plates. With the longer cups, you can give more force to the spring.
But if the shocks are to soft, you need other oil.

 

[RCgoogler]

I would just use caution on the hpi rod ends.. there is a fine line on the suspension geometry.. your increasing the upward travel on big jumps and possible shock blowouts ,broken shock shafts and Rocker posts are possible.. stiffer springs and hobao cups are a better option.. but if your not a big air canyon jumper the hpi ends are doable for ride height.. if you extend your A-arms... that extra push length has to go somewhere...

 

[Frank]

Yes I know about the hobao spring cups, maybe I'm asking for the wrong part? I mean the ball end that connects the steering hub to the rocker arm. Apparently HPI makes a longer one... its shown in one of the youtube movies about upgrades.

I ordered hot racing gold springs. I really feel like this truck's suspension is too soft, especially in the rear. Also ride height is more truggy like, I want it to sit higher. I know that the handling will suffer but I bought it as a fun truck to bash around and not like I want to do technical stuff with it anyway

If you want ride height, you bought the wrong truck. The purpose of the lay down shocks (nero, revo, etc) is to give a lower center of gravity with still having decent travel. I think it's great. You can expect to bottom out with any truck. You aren't going to hurt much other than scuffing up the bottom of the truck by bottoming out. Once you start trying to stiffen up the suspension, you risk breaking shafts and other suspension components. If the rear is too soft, maybe try some thicker oil but don't go too thick. In my opinion, raising the Nero is trying to make it something that it's not and it won't handle as good. Good luck and keep us updated.

 

[chevyrumble]

The Hot-Racing Gold springs are the same length as the the stock Arrma Springs, what I am not sure is if the Hot-Racing springs are "stronger" than the Arrma springs. Hot-Racing uses the "lb/in" to describe their spring rate and Arrma uses "gf/mm", but I can not find a conversion tool to know what how they compare. That all being said I would recommend looking into the getting the optional Arrma 75mm springs (AR330417) if you are looking to raise your truck. The 75mm springs are significantly stiffer than the 65mm springs.

 

[Jestone1]

Thanks for the comments guys!

First off, Frank you're absolutely right as far as ride height/ wrong truck goes. I wouldn't want to make it too high, but its kinda hard to explain what I'm looking for. When pushing the truck down on its suspension it just does not travel back very well, and the end is even staying down. I bottom out on very minor sidewalk ramps. I would like to have the exact height that it has when you just put it down carefully.

Chevyrumble, about the springs, I looked on the hot rackng site and with the gold springs the info says raises height by 5 percent due to being stiffer. Also out of all their 'heavy duty' springs, these are the stiffest. It would be weird if they were softer than the original ones? At least that's my imagination ) but thanks a lot for the info on the longer arrma springs. Def going to order some.

Also stiffer springs might make it way too bouncy, but then I will install thicker oil too. Problem is if I add thicker oil now, it will travel back even less!

 

[lonee]

Do not forget the force to the ground by the wheels. They working against the suspension while lifting the truck after pushing him down.
Just in case of movement you will have less force.
One point more are the drive train. If the wheel is in lowest position the force is increasing al lot on the drive shafts. Thats not good for their durability.
Normally it´s the best when the drive shaft is straight or just a little downward if the car is standing still. That will give the wheel / axle the way to move and work effectively.

Anyway, I agree with Frank. Wrong car for high lifting the chassis.
Maybe larger wheels are an option?

 

[Jestone1]

I will try some regular trenchers or mx38 badlands.

 

[RCgoogler]

Do not forget the force to the ground by the wheels. They working against the suspension while lifting the truck after pushing him down.
Just in case of movement you will have less force.
One point more are the drive train. If the wheel is in lowest position the force is increasing al lot on the drive shafts. Thats not good for their durability.
Normally it´s the best when the drive shaft is straight or just a little downward if the car is standing still. That will give the wheel / axle the way to move and work effectively.

Anyway, I agree with Frank. Wrong car for high lifting the chassis.
Maybe larger wheels are an option?

Good point lonee.. I missed the possible driveshaft mis alighnment

Do not forget the force to the ground by the wheels. They working against the suspension while lifting the truck after pushing him down.
Just in case of movement you will have less force.
One point more are the drive train. If the wheel is in lowest position the force is increasing al lot on the drive shafts. Thats not good for their durability.
Normally it´s the best when the drive shaft is straight or just a little downward if the car is standing still. That will give the wheel / axle the way to move and work effectively.

Anyway, I agree with Frank. Wrong car for high lifting the chassis.
Maybe larger wheels are an option?

 

[lonee]

Badlands are not really bigger in the high diameter than the original tires.
I bought HPI 1:5 full cross front tires and them maybe 5mm bigger but similar the same wideness. But I need an wheel hub for 24mm.
I did not find such adapter till yet which will fits onto the Nero 8mm axle pins.

@RCgoogler
I had that point with my flat ground cars when I would drive on the parking place.
The ground was too rough that I tried to lift the hole car within changing the suspension.. The effect was broken driveshafts.
After that I tried bigger tires. Driveshaft was better but the gravity center moved too high, that the car made an roll up in an sharp curve...
All mods concerning that was poop. So I decided to buy an 1:18 shark MT factory edition as an kit and putted an caste mamba combo into it.
(sure with 1800mA Lipo)
Mainly to find out what happens.( I think in USA they called Durango) Was nice,..... very nice,... more impressive!
So I needed later an 1:10 SC and an 1:8 MONSTER!
If I heard earlier from Armma, I had choosen the Senton, but now I have just an Absima RTR Patron SC. (But I think.. an RC car do not have so much lifetime and I can change later on! )

I am lucky with my Nero BR (with the very small mods) it´s an impressive car!

 

[Jestone1]

Today I got the hot racing gold springs in, and installed them. The effect is surely noticeable. Just a tiny tad higher but mostly it doesn't squat in the back like it used to.

I might try different rod ends in the future, but for now this is okay. Also waiting for the GKA rockers to arrive, and see what they do in the highest/stiffest position.

I do not worry about it getting too bouncy because it's a heavy f*cker. You will need solid metal struts instead of springs, and wooden tires to make it bounce