Hr stainless steel skid plates

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WTF MIKE

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Arrma RC's
Has any tried the hr skid plates part # aon331m08? I’m Curious how long they last they are pretty thin but they are stainless steel.
 
Been running them for months, no issues with them, not sure how they would hold up on concrete parks... but bmx tracks, and general bashing on a multitude of surfaces have shown no problems.. I mainly purchased them to add an extra layer of protection over the ring gear area, and it works great... no more chassis jammed into the ring gear...
 
Been running them for months, no issues with them, not sure how they would hold up on concrete parks... but bmx tracks, and general bashing on a multitude of surfaces have shown no problems.. I mainly purchased them to add an extra layer of protection over the ring gear area, and it works great... no more chassis jammed into the ring gear...
Are you running the stock chassis? I’ve never heard of the chassis jamming into the ring gear
 
Has any tried the hr skid plates part # aon331m08? I’m Curious how long they last they are pretty thin but they are stainless steel.
Hey Mike. I bought the M2C aluminum rear skid, and it is wearing out fast. Most of the running has been you know where, so you get the idea of why I'm a little disappointed. Not sure if a soft metal like stainless steel would fair much better and these things are pricey. If I could by the RPM ones in bulk for a discount, I'd use them all day every day. @olds97_lss makes his own, which I'm starting to think isn't a bad idea.
 
Hey Mike. I bought the M2C aluminum rear skid, and it is wearing out fast. Most of the running has been you know where, so you get the idea of why I'm a little disappointed. Not sure if a soft metal like stainless steel would fair much better and these things are pricey. If I could by the RPM ones in bulk for a discount, I'd use them all day every day. @olds97_lss makes his own, which I'm starting to think isn't a bad idea.
I make my own as well. But I thought stainless steel is a harder metal. The thing I like about them is how thin they are. I mount them on top of the bumper which then makes them about 1/4” thick and I’m having a hard time finding longer screws
 
I make my own as well. But I thought stainless steel is a harder metal. The thing I like about them is how thin they are. I mount them on top of the bumper which then makes them about 1/4” thick and I’m having a hard time finding longer screws
Stainless is rust resistant, but not very hard. That's why it's not recommended to use stainless screws in our rc's. Greater likelihood that they would strip if they are in too tight. I'm not a metallurgist by any means, but I still think that a stronger metal would be better.
 
Are you running the stock chassis? I’ve never heard of the chassis jamming into the ring gear


Yep factory chassis.. havnt needed to change the chassis since I made my braces.. they jam into the ring gear all the time.. skids wont allow that anymore..
Hey Mike. I bought the M2C aluminum rear skid, and it is wearing out fast. Most of the running has been you know where, so you get the idea of why I'm a little disappointed. Not sure if a soft metal like stainless steel would fair much better and these things are pricey. If I could by the RPM ones in bulk for a discount, I'd use them all day every day. @olds97_lss makes his own, which I'm starting to think isn't a bad idea.


Stainless is not soft, china stainless screws are not real stainless.. it's a metallurgy schmorgasboard...real stainless is hard as a rock.. china screws and real stainless cant be compared.. while the hr plates are made in china, it is good stainless, feels like 304..
 
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Stainless steel is well harder than aluminum, as stated before the so called stainless bolts that come in the kits is junk material with nothing even close to stainless steel in them.
Stainless has roughly 18 percent chromium which gives it the corrosion and abrasion resistance while aluminum in some alloys can see up .35 percent chromium combined with magnesium to help with higher temp strength and expansion.
Stainless in most alloys is quite tough and an exceptional skid plate material.
 
Well, if the HR stainless they used for these is the same as they used for the ERBE rear chassis brace, that would be a hard pass. I can bend that thing in a single hand.

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-ERVT30XC08-Stainless-Chassis/dp/B07S38BXZ2

I should have paid attention when I bought it... ordered it on my phone while surveying the damage at the bash site after bending the traxxas one.

Hot racing
Traxxas
Mine from mcmaster 6061 stock
2019-1009-ERBEv2-RearBrace-HR-TRX-Mine-Side.jpg

2019-1009-ERBEv2-RearBrace-HR-TRX-Mine-Top.jpg


So far, the one I made has held up well.

When the HR one showed up in the mail, I laughed and threw it in the junk bin to use to make something else less useless down the line.

To make wear plates, I usually use steel stock I pick up at the hardware store, lowes. They last about a season. I run them on all my revos, outcast and stampede as they all see the most skate park bashing.

I recently picked up some 1/8" titanium stock off amazon. I'm sure it's top notch... lol! Sounds hard when I ping it with something and isn't easy to bend in my hands, so will see how it easy it is to cut and drill at some point. Using my automatic center punch, it makes a shallower dent than it does in the steel I usually use.

As for the m2c skid, my rear m2c is already worn down flush with the screw heads... It made it 3 bash sessions at the skate park. Will likely take it off and replace it with some of the titanium stock I bought before spring.
 
Thickness of the material and its ability to transfer energy to other chassis areas is undoubtedly an issue but I understood the issue to be whether stainless is better than aluminum.
Stainless will no doubt resist abrasion and degradation well better than aluminum.
I could whip out a 3/16 stainless skid with strengthening ribs that would hold up as well as anything yet it has to distribute the energy somewhere and where it ends up would most likely be more expensive than a skid plate.
There also becomes the issue of once the skid takes a bend how does that affect the chassis and handling.
Just my .02
 
Well, if the HR stainless they used for these is the same as they used for the ERBE rear chassis brace, that would be a hard pass. I can bend that thing in a single hand.

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-ERVT30XC08-Stainless-Chassis/dp/B07S38BXZ2

I should have paid attention when I bought it... ordered it on my phone while surveying the damage at the bash site after bending the traxxas one.

Hot racing
Traxxas
Mine from mcmaster 6061 stock
2019-1009-ERBEv2-RearBrace-HR-TRX-Mine-Side.jpg

2019-1009-ERBEv2-RearBrace-HR-TRX-Mine-Top.jpg


So far, the one I made has held up well.

When the HR one showed up in the mail, I laughed and threw it in the junk bin to use to make something else less useless down the line.

To make wear plates, I usually use steel stock I pick up at the hardware store, lowes. They last about a season. I run them on all my revos, outcast and stampede as they all see the most skate park bashing.

I recently picked up some 1/8" titanium stock off amazon. I'm sure it's top notch... lol! Sounds hard when I ping it with something and isn't easy to bend in my hands, so will see how it easy it is to cut and drill at some point. Using my automatic center punch, it makes a shallower dent than it does in the steel I usually use.

As for the m2c skid, my rear m2c is already worn down flush with the screw heads... It made it 3 bash sessions at the skate park. Will likely take it off and replace it with some of the titanium stock I bought before spring.
The skid plates are impossible to bend by hand. I would not put aluminum skid plates on my rigs cause where I bash they would only last a couple of packs like NOTORIUSj said. My home made metal ones lasted all year and still have them on it is time to make new ones.
 
Stainless is rust resistant, but not very hard. That's why it's not recommended to use stainless screws in our rc's. Greater likelihood that they would strip if they are in too tight. I'm not a metallurgist by any means, but I still think that a stronger metal would be better.
If you were to use a stainless steel you would want 304 ss for this application
 
Spring steel, like 1095, would probably make a very wear resistant skid plate if all you are worried about is wearing out too fast.

You can order spring steel in a "blue temper" relatively inexpensively from online stores, even Amazon carries it.

Guess what hand saws are made of? Spring steel. The newer saws with shiny blades have a fair bit of corrosion resistance so that's nice. They are also dirt cheap at second hand stores.

Of course spring steel is challenging to drill but a quick Google search will tell you how it's done.

Just some fairly uselesss FYI but I figured there are a few frugal minded DIY folks in here who might like to know.
 
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