Talion HR vs Arrma aluminum diff cases?

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craig72

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton EXB
  2. Nero
  3. Talion
  4. Typhon 6s
Hey gang. Apparently I exploded the two planetary gears inside my v3 Talion 6s (but it was fun ;)
Looking to upgrade the diff cup and was wanting to get folks thoughts on three options:
  • Arrma metal diff case ARA220050 ~$20
  • HR Modular Diff case AON11E02 ~$17
  • HR Alum Diff case AON1101 ~$27
Car runs Max6/4985 combo, so it sees some power. Any thoughts on those, or maybe other I missed?
Thanks!
 
I took the Arrma route and that is the way to go. No issues on any of them. Follow the diagram for assembly, showing the correct shims and yes you will have some part leftover.
 
This is my hr center diff. It has seen a few rocks and gravel in the 6 months iv had it on. I got it on ebay for $12 bucks shipped. The seller bought wrong part. 20/46 gear v4 partial exb'd noto.

BA9D36BA-7027-4C7D-A0D1-73E4A32D36E2.jpeg
 
Look on the inside of your HR diff, mine was grinding out behind the sun gear. Arrma doesn't have that issue due to it being steel. Can't really tell what HR version you have though.
 
Not sure exactly how it happened, but my front diff (which was shimmed inside and out..) lost both planetary gears. The one at the bottom of the cup was shredded, with pieces embedded in the side of the factory cup! Perfect time to upgrade ;)
 
Got the new Arrma diff installed finally. Took only 1 outer shim per side to tighten it up in the housing as opposed to two like the stock diff.

This was the remnants of the stock diff. I think I got a perfect score.... every gear was damaged (y)

PXL_20210724_022454456.jpg


Here is the new one all ready to go, aside from some grease on the gear. Thought it would be better to snap a pic beforehand. Don't judge the cleanliness of my car.... Thanks for the tips!

PXL_20210730_220540369.jpg
 
Umm, what are you doing with shims on both sides on the out drives? That is plain wrong and defeats the purpose of the shims. You are shimming to press the gear against the input gear i.e. in your picture you are only supposed to have shims on the left side. Remove the one on the right. Only add shims on the gear side, and as many as needed.
I just saved you ~$40 in gears that will strip sooner than needed. You are welcome 😇
You effectively are binding up your drivetrain and not removing the gear slop.


Not sure if you described your diff assembly, you must follow the manual on shimming there are 2 shims under the sun gear. Do not deviate and do not any extra. That will ensure a long, happy diff life.

Added bonus tips, buy a front bumper ASAP.
The top right diff screw hole looks worn out. If any of the screws are loose when you try to tighten, that will blow up your diff in no time.
Hard to tell though, if they torque fine it's all good.

HUR8T4M6TEFVKAP9QVB9NN8C6XU8K6BDKQNNC3PRADFMX4H6H8.jpg
 
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Umm, what are you doing with shims on both sides on the out drives? That is plain wrong and defeats the purpose of the shims. You are shimming to press the gear against the input gear i.e. in your picture you are only supposed to have shims on the left side. Remove the one on the right. Only add shims on the gear side, and as many as needed.
I just saved you ~$40 in gears that will strip sooner than needed. You are welcome 😇
You effectively are binding up your drivetrain and not removing the gear slop.


Not sure if you described your diff assembly, you must follow the manual on shimming there are 2 shims under the sun gear. Do not deviate and do not any extra. That will ensure a long, happy diff life.

Added bonus tips, buy a front bumper ASAP.
The top right diff screw hole looks worn out. If any of the screws are loose when you try to tighten, that will blow up your diff in no time.
Hard to tell though, if they torque fine it's all good.

View attachment 161186
I needed shims on both sides of mine 2 to push it into the pinion gear and 1 to keep it from moving back the other way, if I tried all 3 on the same side it bound. The shims don't go on any side in particular they go where you need them.
 
I needed shims on both sides of mine 2 to push it into the pinion gear and 1 to keep it from moving back the other way, if I tried all 3 on the same side it bound. The shims don't go on any side in particular they go where you need them.
Yeah, I had the same issue. If I put both one side, the mesh was too tight. If I put 1 per side, mesh was good and there was no side to side movement of the diff within the housing. But I appreciate the suggestions for sure!

So far, the diff cover screws are torqing fine, but I'm looking at getting the aluminum covers since I'm not liking the way the stock covers fit with the HR diff housing.

On the topic of bumpers, what do you all like for a v3 talion? I've been looking around, but not sure what I want to get yet.
 
Got the new Arrma diff installed finally. Took only 1 outer shim per side to tighten it up in the housing as opposed to two like the stock diff.

This was the remnants of the stock diff. I think I got a perfect score.... every gear was damaged (y)

View attachment 161159

Here is the new one all ready to go, aside from some grease on the gear. Thought it would be better to snap a pic beforehand. Don't judge the cleanliness of my car.... Thanks for the tips!

View attachment 161160
What car is that some people posted that the aluminum diff case didn’t fit in the stock bulkheads. Did you have any issues. I’m installing new aluminum diff housing in my Kraton 6s and Typhon 6s
 
What car is that some people posted that the aluminum diff case didn’t fit in the stock bulkheads. Did you have any issues. I’m installing new aluminum diff housing in my Kraton 6s and Typhon 6s
There are no fitment issues with the Arrma aluminum diff cases. They fit fine in stock bulkheads, as well as all the aluminum upgraded bulkheads.
 
There are no fitment issues with the Arrma aluminum diff cases. They fit fine in stock bulkheads, as well as all the aluminum upgraded bulkheads.
Pretty sure the fitment issues were with the Hot Racing EXB diff cups.
 
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