Humm, paint cracking off?

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Wheels007

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Granite
I recently posted a paint job my wife did on my BRCC. She washed the inside of the clear body and put several coats of the metallic paint. Then a coat of backer paint. I've had a few crashes and noticed the metallic paint separating from the body in a few places. The only thing that's keeping the paint in place is the coat of backer paint. All the paint is Tamiya brand. Has anyone else run into this happening?
 
Did you scratch the inside of the body before apply the paint? If not, then the paint can't stuck on the lexan.

/sigh. I watched 2 or 3 tutorials and didn't see anything about light sanding. My wife said that was my part of the paint job and not her fault "as she laughs at me."
 
The first body i painted 20+ years ago, i didn't scratch the inside, i was able to remove the paint with my nail.

Yes, lot of tutorial don't talk about that, but it is the best thing to do if you want the paint stays in place.
 
The only time I've ever had this happen was when I used SpazStix almost chrome, never had a single issue with Tamiya brand popping off.
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Did you use PS or TS paint? Did you do very light coats? How long between coats? How humid and warm was your pairing area?

All of these will affect the adhesion of the paint. You can accelerate the bonding and cure time by using a heat gun between coats. Just don’t use a high temp setting or use it directly on one area for long. The idea is to wave the heat back and forth quickly to gently add heat and blow away moisture.

I will also say that lightly scuffing the inside after washing with 00 steel wool will help adhesion and won’t affect the paint appearance when done.
 
Did you use PS or TS paint? Did you do very light coats? How long between coats? How humid and warm was your pairing area?

All of these will affect the adhesion of the paint. You can accelerate the bonding and cure time by using a heat gun between coats. Just don’t use a high temp setting or use it directly on one area for long. The idea is to wave the heat back and forth quickly to gently add heat and blow away moisture.

I will also say that lightly scuffing the inside after washing with 00 steel wool will help adhesion and won’t affect the paint appearance when done.
Hmm I don't have any 00 would 0000 be fine?
 
Did you use PS or TS paint? Did you do very light coats? How long between coats? How humid and warm was your pairing area?

All of these will affect the adhesion of the paint. You can accelerate the bonding and cure time by using a heat gun between coats. Just don’t use a high temp setting or use it directly on one area for long. The idea is to wave the heat back and forth quickly to gently add heat and blow away moisture.

I will also say that lightly scuffing the inside after washing with 00 steel wool will help adhesion and won’t affect the paint appearance when done.
I used TS paint. light coats, outside with no humidity and about 75 degrees. I waited for each coat to air dry.
 
TS doesn't bond well to polycarbonate, you need to use the PS line of paint for that
 
I used TS paint. light coats, outside with no humidity and about 75 degrees. I waited for each coat to air dry.
There's your issue... TS paint isn't going to bond to lexan. You need PS paints.
 
I painted a body with Tamiya and never scuffed it and has never peeled off.
 
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