HW Max8 G2 has ESC settings that are unfamiliar to me

parcou

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I have a few HW ESCs: Max6 and Max8 v3. The new Max8 G2 has some settings that are new to me for my Lasernut U4. Curious about those who have the G2 if they modified the following settings:

#8 The PUNCH goes to 9 nice to see vs 1-5. Understand that one

#10 Initial Throttle Force - min throttle force that can be set according to wheel traction

#11 Turbo Timing - New for me never seen a timing setting on my other HW ESCs. All my Firma's bring down to 15deg. G2 starts off at 0. Wish I knew the default timing on the Max6 and Max8 v3

#12 Turbo Delay - Linked to #11 on how long before engaging

Screenshot 2023-02-02 at 1.50.57 AM.png
 

Sandracer_NL

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My esc's don't have timing and can't find any info on the timing of the Max6.
This article may help with timing and turbo advantages and disadvantages. Low timing -> less amp draw, more efficient, more low end torque. Higher timing -> more RPM, more top speed.
https://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/timing-explained-for-brushless-motor-and-escs/

Looks like the G2 has more dedicated programming options for race tuning.;)

Are you going to run it sensored? On paper sensored seems to be the future.
If so, I'm interested to hear if you can notice significant differences when bashing (I have no doubt sensored will help you to get lap times down).
 

parcou

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My esc's don't have timing and can't find any info on the timing of the Max6.
This article may help with timing and turbo advantages and disadvantages. Low timing -> less amp draw, more efficient, more low end torque. Higher timing -> more RPM, more top speed.
https://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/timing-explained-for-brushless-motor-and-escs/

Looks like the G2 has more dedicated programming options for race tuning.;)

Are you going to run it sensored? On paper sensored seems to be the future.
If so, I'm interested to hear if you can notice significant differences when bashing (I have no doubt sensored will help you to get lap times down).

Thx for the reply and link!

I wanted an HW Max8 v3, but all I could find was the G2. Bashing only like you I doubt and not looking to see a difference over any other ESC. I was cool with the Firma 130A that comes with the rig, but I really was after more BEC, and the 130A is only 6v. With those big PL Hyrax tires and SSD wheels on the LN, I want to get the most out of my servo at 7.4v and really need that for the setup.

My brother lives in California, so if I ever take this one with me, he has some cool trails. He has some crawlers, but he also has some nice trails for his rigs as well. This would be the only time I consider putting the sensored motor in the LN going out his was for the trail action with him. With one rig I could have the best of two, trails and the desert with one RC.
 
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I'm very interested in this ESC for my outcast 6s. I would love to hear you feedback on it and what you think of it?

I only use mine for bashing in grassy fields, im not sending it off of jumps, but i walk a trail to get to said fields, the use of a sensored motor for the slow trail walk before and after is appealing.
 

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I have the g2 in my Kraton 6s and I leave the turbo timing alone as instructed by the support team at HW . I love love love my G2 combo for bashing absolutely lowest temps I’ve had . It absolutely cranks very very happy

CCD113C1-193F-4AA9-9925-B137A80075CC.jpeg
 

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Turbo timing and turbo delay sound like what no-prep drag fellas use in their Tekin and Maclan ESCs. The guys that I've seen and how they set it up generally run really high turbo or boost timing (40-60° wasn't unusual). The turbo delay sets when the turbo timing kicks in...I believe by telling it at what RPM it should kick in. The idea is that off the line, higher timing is of little value as it will only increase the likelihood of spinning the tires. But once you've gotten going and are 40' or 50' down range, you have the ESC ramp the timing up to your turbo or boost value for the sprint to the finish line. I can't see that being of any use for bashing whatsoever.

The Castle MMX8S has a similar feature on the motor tab called C.H.E.A.T. Whereas the max timing advance during normal operation is 20°, CHEAT mode allows for timing advances up to 45°, but only for a given section of the RPM range that you can modify. This allows you to program a kind of electric "powerband".
 

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Turbo timing and turbo delay sound like what no-prep drag fellas use in their Tekin and Maclan ESCs. The guys that I've seen and how they set it up generally run really high turbo or boost timing (40-60° wasn't unusual). The turbo delay sets when the turbo timing kicks in...I believe by telling it at what RPM it should kick in. The idea is that off the line, higher timing is of little value as it will only increase the likelihood of spinning the tires. But once you've gotten going and are 40' or 50' down range, you have the ESC ramp the timing up to your turbo or boost value for the sprint to the finish line. I can't see that being of any use for bashing whatsoever.

The Castle MMX8S has a similar feature on the motor tab called C.H.E.A.T. Whereas the max timing advance during normal operation is 20°, CHEAT mode allows for timing advances up to 45°, but only for a given section of the RPM range that you can modify. This allows you to program a kind of electric "powerband".

Exactly not really for bashing HW said . It’s almost like a Honda V-Tec
 

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Adjustability of WOT and acceleration graph ramps, play around with one parameter at a time if you track it or are having air control inconsistencies. Just more flexibility than the standard punch curves, default timing is 15*!
 

Diem Turner

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Exactly not really for bashing HW said . It’s almost like a Honda V-Tec
Yeah, that's a good real world analog. I had a 1991 Civic V-TEC many moons ago. Those engines are the mother's udders. You can just rev the nuts off of it and you can tell the engine just loves it and seems to always ask for more. I love the S2000. It has all the trappings of the V-TEC but with the rev limiter kicked up to 9000 rpm and all that high revving goodness packaged in a RWD two seat roadster. A real driver's car.
 

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I tried to play around with some of those settings and some of them definitely made things worse. I think initial throttle force was the main culprit. Turning up punch with that setting caused my truck to stutter and jerk when going full throttle from stand still. Pretty sure it was making my lipo choke which is nuts. I had much better results leaving that setting stock and not using max punch 🤣
 

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Turbo timing and turbo delay sound like what no-prep drag fellas use in their Tekin and Maclan ESCs.

Yep a couple coworkers who are deep into drifting also speak of turbo regularly. I've never looked into it and still have no idea how it works but I believe you are correct regarding Tekin and Maclan as that's what they run too. I just assume the obvious that it's some sort of advanced controllable powerband.
 

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Turbo timing is just timing that being added only after you've reached full throttle, it's good for cases where you want to add extra power (and speed) but not on the normal (not full) throttle range. it's also good for lowering motor temps if you use smaller pinion and then compensate for the loss of speed with turbo timing, that way the motor is operating under less load for most of the speed range, but still letting you have the speed at full throttle.

the reason not to use turbo timing is that you cannot really contol how much is added while you drive.. if you choose 20deg than that's what will be added everytime you reach full throttle.. so it's best to be used in moderation if at all

Initial throttle force - it is used when the minimum throttle gives you cogging, and you want to make sure that the minimum throttle starts above that point, used if you over-geared your car.
 
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Turbo timing is just timing that being added only after you've reached full throttle, it's good for cases where you want to add extra power (and speed) but not on the normal (not full) throttle range. it's also good for lowering motor temps if you use smaller pinion and then compensate for the loss of speed with turbo timing, that way the motor is operating under less load for most of the speed range, but still letting you have the speed at full throttle.

the reason not to use turbo timing is that you cannot really contol how much is added while you drive.. if you choose 20deg than that's what will be added everytime you reach full throttle.. so it's best to be used in moderation if at all

Initial throttle force - it is used when the minimum throttle gives you cogging, and you want to make sure that the minimum throttle starts above that point, used if you over-geared your car.
Thank you for this. :cool: (y)
 

parcou

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I have the g2 in my Kraton 6s and I leave the turbo timing alone as instructed by the support team at HW . I love love love my G2 combo for bashing absolutely lowest temps I’ve had . It absolutely cranks very very happy

View attachment 274878
Good reply...

I normally replace the ESC fan with a taller 40mm 28mm fan, but I will keep this one to see how it cools. How does it cool the ESC for you?

HW said to leave it alone....this for bashing?

I do think it is a great next step since I can use it later with their sensored motors.
Initial throttle force - it is used when the minimum throttle gives you cogging, and you want to make sure that the minimum throttle starts above that point, used if you over-geared your car.

Huge... cogging. I have not experienced that since I bash full throttle but there have been a few odd times on 1-off rigs

Thx for that!!!
 

parcou

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Turbo timing is just timing that being added only after you've reached full throttle, it's good for cases where you want to add extra power (and speed) but not on the normal (not full) throttle range. it's also good for lowering motor temps if you use smaller pinion and then compensate for the loss of speed with turbo timing, that way the motor is operating under less load for most of the speed range, but still letting you have the speed at full throttle.

the reason not to use turbo timing is that you cannot really contol how much is added while you drive.. if you choose 20deg than that's what will be added everytime you reach full throttle.. so it's best to be used in moderation if at all

Initial throttle force - it is used when the minimum throttle gives you cogging, and you want to make sure that the minimum throttle starts above that point, used if you over-geared your car.
Thanks

Turbo timing looks like the regular timing on the Spektrum motors...or it looks to work the same. Firma 150/160A ESC comes with timing high at 22.x degrees, something in that range. I put them all at 15deg, seen from other posts, and it runs far cooler and good in TLR, Fireteam, and Infraction at 15deg. The stock Firma 130A comes default at 15deg.

HW starts off at 0deg I think @SrC some others start off their Spektrum ESC at 0deg. So maybe I do not need a Spektrum mindset to be at 15deg and just leave the HW at 0deg timing....
 

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On racing Hobbywing ESC's they have 'boost timing' which effects the whole RPM range, and 'turbo timing' which is added only after full throttle. i assumed that Spektrum esc's use the normal boost timing.. but regardles it's easy to to test, add the max timing on the spektrum and slowly ramp to full throttle while the car is in the air, if you get a sudden speed increas at full throttle so it's indeed 'turbo'
 

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Yeah, that's a good real world analog. I had a 1991 Civic V-TEC many moons ago. Those engines are the mother's udders. You can just rev the nuts off of it and you can tell the engine just loves it and seems to always ask for more. I love the S2000. It has all the trappings of the V-TEC but with the rev limiter kicked up to 9000 rpm and all that high revving goodness packaged in a RWD two seat roadster. A real driver's car.

I had a few V-Tecs too . I would love to get my hands on a old school S2000
 

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I had a few V-Tecs too . I would love to get my hands on a old school S2000
Oh man, me too. 2004-2005 if possible. If my memory hasn't failed me, I believe those were the last ones with a real analog, mechanical connection before they went to some sort of "fly-by-wire" controls. Could be pure fiction though or a Mandela effect.
 

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Oh man, me too. 2004-2005 if possible. If my memory hasn't failed me, I believe those were the last ones with a real analog, mechanical connection before they went to some sort of "fly-by-wire" controls. Could be pure fiction though or a Mandela effect.

Motors can take anything you throw at them
 

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On racing Hobbywing ESC's they have 'boost timing' which effects the whole RPM range, and 'turbo timing' which is added only after full throttle. i assumed that Spektrum esc's use the normal boost timing.. but regardles it's easy to to test, add the max timing on the spektrum and slowly ramp to full throttle while the car is in the air, if you get a sudden speed increas at full throttle so it's indeed 'turbo'
Spektrum ESC timing advance is just "plain" F/W Motor Timing.
The HW "Boost Timing" feature requires Sensored control. And is an added feature only found with HW "Sensored" ESC's. Boost needs accurate RPM monitoring, so only Sensored Motors/ESC's can do this. Boost kicks in at between 50%-100% throttle. It can be tweaked in this regard. Much is trial and error to get it just right. Amp cutting can also result more so. So it has its drawbacks IMHO. What I noticed when speedrunning my Lim.
I turn off boost. And keep my timing down for the most part. It reduces heat very much. I find that my FT RTR ESC timing is fine at 3.75 degrees. Default was like 22 deg and is just Too high for my liking. Heat was a problem because of this, and ambient temps were actually cool, around 50F degrees. I also run the 15T "speed gear" as the Installed FT Pinion is much to low/slow. I don't know what Spektrum was thinking. They probably want you to fry your motor out the box ???:giggle: The included manual includes NO information about Timing. The Benefits or trade offs. Newbs will definitely run into trouble here. Usually turning timing Up, wanting "more speed". :rolleyes: High Timing can really ruin your motor. Heat is a motors main worst enemy. Timing increases a motors RPM. I don't feel increased timing is needed for bashing. So I keep it low. For my speed running it has its advantages. Like with my Lim and the HW XR8 Plus. But still, I start out low and only increase it incrementally, using my temp gun to monitor Motor temps. If you are not sure or familiar or understand what it does, with ESC F/W Motor Timing, drop it all the way down. This will also allow for Taller Pinion gear changes and "less" heat will result.
Motor ESC Timing was a thing mainly for the track guys. Where it all evolved.
:cool:

Edited.
 
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