Hydrodipping RC Bodies (How To)

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Tried my first body dip yesterday, definitely not as easy as Duke makes it look!!! I had the same issue with 3dplank with not being able to get it to adhere to the roof. Not sure if that was my angle or the speed I was doing it. I also got some of the film on the outside of the body, how are you guys making sure that doesn't happen?
 
It's almost impossible to keep from getting some of the image on the outside during the dip, especially around the edges. All the bodies I've done come with the clear protective film on the outside, but if you dip one that doesn't come with it, you'll need to mask the outside of the body with tape to keep that from happening. What brand body was it? If you can post a picture of the roof and I can try and see what the image did around the area it didn't adhere to.
 
It's almost impossible to keep from getting some of the image on the outside during the dip, especially around the edges. All the bodies I've done come with the clear protective film on the outside, but if you dip one that doesn't come with it, you'll need to mask the outside of the body with tape to keep that from happening. What brand body was it? If you can post a picture of the roof and I can try and see what the image did around the area it didn't adhere to.
Ahhhh ok, I used a body I’ve had laying around for about 20 years, no film on those. Lol. After I dipped it I assumed I should have masked the exterior too.
 

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Looks like the image stretched and came apart at the rooflines . My experience has been that pre-color film doesn't have the elasticity that black only film has. I'm not sure why, but that's the main reason why I try to just use black and clear film patterns and color the background with paint as backing colors.
For a blue flame affect it's more forgiving to dip it in a black and clear film then back with Tamiya PS3 for the blue, that way the color is much more consistent and controllable.
 
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Looks like the image stretched and came apart at the rooflines . My experience has been that pre-color film doesn't have the elasticity that black only film has. I'm not sure why, but that's the main reason why I try to just use black and clear film patterns and color the background with paint as backing colors.
For a blue flame affect it's more forgiving to dip it in a black and clear film then back with Tamiya PS3 for the blue, that way the color is much more consistent and controllable.
Interesting, much thanks for the advice!!!
 
@Mr.Duke are we going to see a hydro dipped K8S body someday in the future?
You do wicked good work!!!
 
Did a smax remo. Small body. Came out alright.
Clear flame pattern turned out nice.?

I can’t tell y’all how how much it pleases me to see others giving this method a try.

If anyone has any questions please let me know and I’ll help out anyway that I can.
 
What’s the hold up slacker? ?
Watch it bud?. Talk to @Mr.Duke that way and you'll be dealing with the AF posse. we got a can of whoop a$$ with your name on it????.
 
all looks good ?and immediately feel like making another one ? quite funny to see that you all come across the same problems? when you go dipping.

but I am very happy with my first hood that I hardly dare to ride it ?
 

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If anyone has any questions please let me know and I’ll help out anyway that I can.
I've done a fair amount of hydro dipping over the years and most things I do come out great even if I do say so myself.

However doing a clear bodyshell is new to me which as you know it's the complete reverse process of normal dipping. So today I was practicing on some plastic tubs and trialing some colour ideas but I came across a problem when dipping so was wondering if you'd seen this before or had any ideas please.


Basically after activating my film and dipping the part I looked at it under water & could see it was a good dip, pattern looked great.
However after clearing the film debris and removing the part slowly from the water the film on the dipped part kind of moved away, ...sorry I don't know how to describe what I watched happen. It was almost like you get with a paint reaction spot.
20200508_163132.jpg



The tub lid (pictured above) that I used had been used in the past for food but was thoroughly cleaned before dipping.
The bottom half of the tub which I dipped twice caused me issues so I ended up very lightly keying the surface of the lid with a pad when I came to do that to see if that helped or worked better.

I am wondering if the dip didn't adhere to the surface maybe?

I wondered if I should OR if you have ever sprayed the body shell first with clear lacquer before dipping? Or have you not seen that issue on lexan/polycarbonate body shells when dipping?

It could be because the tub is made from PP plastic maybe?
Thanks for any insight. (y)
 
Would hydrodipped rims hold up to the abuse?
If you were doing wheel rims then they'd be done in the normal hydro dipping fashion, ...prep>prime>base colour>dip>clear lacquer.

In which case it's the same as any other paint job really. Will take a few knocks but any big hits could chip the lacquer off or take it down through to the primer.
Just depends how abusive you're to how well it'll hold up. (y)
 
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