Hydrodipping RC Bodies (How To)

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Thanks so much! This looks so bad ass! All my liberal northern neighbors will love it ? You did a fantastic job. I couldn't do this on a bet. No way I could send my Typhon with this piece of art on it.
 
Thanks so much! This looks so bad ass! All my liberal northern neighbors will love it ? You did a fantastic job. I couldn't do this on a bet. No way I could send my Typhon with this piece of art on it.
You're welcome ?

Glad you like it.

was a pleasure working with you on this project bicketybam

I'll box it up first thing Monday morning and ship it back to you.
 
You're welcome ?

Glad you like it.

was a pleasure working with you on this project bicketybam

I'll box it up first thing Monday morning and ship it back to you.
You did all the work!

I guess I should clean my Typhon for the fitting ???
 
You did all the work!

I guess I should clean my Typhon for the fitting ???
Nah, It takes me just as long, if not longer to decide on a film pattern as it does to dip and paint.
Luckily I left that half of the project up to you so I didn't have to ?
 
Nah, It takes me just as long, if not longer to decide on a film pattern as it does to dip and paint.
Luckily I left that half of the project up to you so I didn't have to ?
I spent all of 5 minutes picking the pattern, lol. I knew I wanted something American. Then I saw the skulls and the battle flag and it was on ?? It looks so cool. I'll take some slo mo video of it running but I'm not going to bash it. It will be my "show" body ?
 
I've hydro dipped a lot of different things at home and it has taken me a while to get "good" at it. Still get problems though as it's not an easy process despite what the cleverly edited videos on YouTube will have you believe where they never make mistakes.

One of the key things though as you mentioned is high quality film and activator.
When I first started it was with a £50 ($65) starter kit from eBay and it had cheap Chinese made film and activator. I tried using it as I didn't know better and the film wouldn't liquefy properly with the activator so it never worked when dipping. It was like trying to wrap a plastic bag around parts.

Got some decent Japanese made films as well as decent activators which made all the difference. Keep up the good work @Mr.Duke (y)

quick side note just in case you all didn't know the "secret" ingredient in activator is 2k thinners lol. best activator i have used has been a combo of 2k thinner and xylene. 60 percent 2k thinner, 40 percent Xylene and its perfect always activates, the more thinner the quicker it activates so an 80 20 mix is good but bare in mind the 2k thinner is toxic but is how most activators are made with a bit of this and that to lower the smell and how quick it activates. xylene weakens the thinners and is at any hardware store and it is SOOOO much cheaper than buying activator.
 
Thank you.
It's going to be tricky for sure around the top of the roofline around the back of the cab and at the trailing edge of the tailgate.
The plan is to go in nose first and dislocate both of my wrists in order to perform the elusive "push and spin half twist dip method". Hahaha
I have to kayak 26 miles in 3 weeks so as long as I'm healed back up by then we're good.
 
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Thank you.
It's going to be tricky for sure around the top of the roofline around the back of the cab and at the trailing edge of the tailgate.
The plan is to go in nose first and dislocate both of my wrists in order to perform the elusive "push and spin half twist dip method". Hahaha
I have to kayak 26 miles in 3 weeks so as long as I'm healed back up by then we're good.

that comment is too funny.... i was also thinking and im not sure what you think but i have also done this before with round parts and this might help you especially with that kind of film is masking half the car and dipping half the front then the back, with the pattern and paint behind it you would barely if at all notice a hard line as the skulls are scattered.... then no bubbles or contact front or back ?‍♂️
 
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