Kraton I’m over my exb, won’t last a full pack.

[Pat_ranch]

Thanks guys, I feel like this was a productive rc therapy session haha. This issue is really bumming me out. I was out of my mind excited for this truck, my first jump into 6s, and to have these stupid out drives break and force me to rebuild the front diff every time is driving me crazy. For it to be the same breakage, the same way, on the same side there has to be SOMETHING up, I just don’t know what that something is.......yet. See you’ve already got me looking on the bright side again haha. These stupid breakages are going to force me to buy a batt discharger though. Coming home with full packs and the passport 2 takes FOREVER to discharge them.

Just get a 6s typhon to help with the discharge

 

[jkflow]

a) Get a 2nd rig but from my experience you buy more packs and break both before the Lipo's are empty
b) get a 3rd
or get a discharger.

This would probably be my go to but I just bough cheap resistors and use a lipo alarm. Those puppies do get hot though.


https://www.smc-racing.com/Chargers/oria12bb

 

[Rainger40]

Well.......new out drives installed. Decided to change the drive shaft on that side too. Took the whole front end apart and the only thing I found was the outer driveshaft bearing is a little gritty, still spins but you can feel the lack of smoothness. Hinge pins are straight, arms are in tact, all moves freely by itself so idk where to go. I’ve got a real nice HH CS rep that I’m going to email and see if hes got any suggestions and if he wants to send out a new front end haha, I’m kidding, but who knows maybe he’ll decide it’s appropriate they’re pretty good there. I’m going to take out more droop and crank the front shock preload and give it another go. Any other suggestions before I give it a rip?

 

[razorrc]

I would definitely check your front diff bulkhead. If it's cracked, it will also cause that problem as the diff moves around when you slam it into the ground because it's not really held in place. That happened to mine, although it did not break clean off like yours are doing.

 

[FatCatRC]

Remove the upper and lower washers at the ends of the arms where the pillow balls screw in. Shave 1mm off the end of the upper and lower a arms. Toss everything back together without the washers, adjust droop to just lower then fully straight with chassis and your cups will never break. Simple fix. Trust me it will work.

 

[Rainger40]

I would definitely check your front diff bulkhead. If it's cracked, it will also cause that problem as the diff moves around when you slam it into the ground because it's not really held in place. That happened to mine, although it did not break clean off like yours are doing.

The front cover where the sway bar makes contact or where the diff sits inside the gear case?

Remove the upper and lower washers at the ends of the arms where the pillow balls screw in. Shave 1mm off the end of the upper and lower a arms. Toss everything back together without the washers, adjust droop to just lower then fully straight with chassis and your cups will never break. Simple fix. Trust me it will work.

Ive seen this method to seat driveshafts deeper into the out drives to keep them from popping out, but I think that would exacerbate my problem. I don’t think it’s coming out, then breaking the out drive, I think it’s breaking the outdrive then falling out. Key word is think in all of this haha.

 

[FatCatRC]

The front cover where the sway bar makes contact or where the diff sits inside the gear case?

Ive seen this method to seat driveshafts deeper into the out drives to keep them from popping out, but I think that would exacerbate my problem. I don’t think it’s coming out, then breaking the out drive, I think it’s breaking the outdrive then falling out. Key word is think in all of this haha.

Nope it's coming out and catching the edge and snapping the cup. Your marks on the arms tell me that. Trust me.

Nope it's coming out and catching the edge and snapping the cup. Your marks on the arms tell me that. Trust me.

I have a bin of cups from that happening to me, it's an easy fix.

 

[razorrc]

The front cover where the sway bar makes contact or where the diff sits inside the gear case?

Gear case

 

[jkflow]

What to do differently? Take a couple pictures before and, if possible, a video of it running.

 

[ChemEng]

Thanks guys, I feel like this was a productive rc therapy session haha. This issue is really bumming me out. I was out of my mind excited for this truck, my first jump into 6s, and to have these stupid out drives break and force me to rebuild the front diff every time is driving me crazy. For it to be the same breakage, the same way, on the same side there has to be SOMETHING up, I just don’t know what that something is.......yet. See you’ve already got me looking on the bright side again haha. These stupid breakages are going to force me to buy a batt discharger though. Coming home with full packs and the passport 2 takes FOREVER to discharge them.

i can't say enough good things about this discharger.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/isdt-fd200-8s-smart-lipo-discharger-25a-200w-isd-fd-200/p999240

i use a parallel board to discharge multiple batteries at once (with same cell counts of course).

 

[Surchaufeur]

Sand Down the alluminum piece and remove the clips problem solved. That was ussualy the fix. You can also add bump stops inside the shock.get the m2C outdrives they are the same price as the stock ones.
I can show the front of mine. Im not going to lie a dogbone poped out last time i took my exb out it was a poop landing on one side of the front and the suspension just locked up. The driveshaft was stuck against you know the bowed parts of the outdrive. But ipthis happened imo because i unscrewed the top pivot ball to change my camber. Me being lazy XD

 

[Rainger40]

I’ll just leave this here haha, at least it didn’t break anything and it’s a different side. Looks like I’ll be shaving some arms soon, maybe throw some stops on the shocks. This pretty much settles it’s happening on compression and not droop. Front suspension is going to get a lot stiffer, I hate the amount of chassis slap I’m getting now anyway. I’d rather replace shock rod ends than these freaking out drives, but hopefully I’ll find a happy medium and do more driving than wrenching.

 

[Notorious J]

I’ll just leave this here haha, at least it didn’t break anything and it’s a different side. Looks like I’ll be shaving some arms soon, maybe throw some stops on the shocks. This pretty much settles it’s happening on compression and not droop. Front suspension is going to get a lot stiffer, I hate the amount of chassis slap I’m getting now anyway. I’d rather replace shock rod ends than these freaking out drives, but hopefully I’ll find a happy medium and do more driving than wrenching.View attachment 139655View attachment 139656

Tell your Kraton I said hello right back to it. Love that it was waving at me in the first pic.

 

[JvG]

Why is this happening to EXB's? I don't see this issue with normal V5's so often.
I remember this was an issue with the V1/V2 Kratons because the driveshafts were just a tad too short. Arrma fixed that during the V2.
The shorter ones did fit perfect in the rear though.

 

[Notorious J]

Why is this happening to EXB's? I don't see this issue with normal V5's so often.
I remember this was an issue with the V1/V2 Kratons because the driveshafts were just a tad too short. Arrma fixed that during the V2.
The shorter ones did fit perfect in the rear though.

I have never had this happen on my KEXB. Everything else that might have gone wrong, yes, but not the front shaft popping out.

 

[JvG]

I have never had this happen on my KEXB. Everything else that might have gone wrong, yes, but not the front shaft popping out.

Haha there always is the exception and the honour is yours!

 

[RC-Dad]

I had the same troubles with front shafts popping out on me. Pulled the spacers behind pillow balls and am using rpm upper and lower arms in the front. Haven't had one pop out since.

 

[razorrc]

Also check your arms. One of my uppers eventually got too flexy and would allow the arms to twist/deflect too much letting the CVA twist around on hard impacts at a steep angle (thereby shredding the outdrive).

The arms lose their shape a little over time and it's a good idea to replace them with new ones every now and then IMO. Compare a brand new arm to the stock one, and you can see if it's stiffer/straighter.

 

[DADDYO1NC]

Had this thing around a month now and only gotten one full pack out of it. It was pathetic the first run so I put 17t pinion and 500k in center diff. Livened things up nicely for all 5 mins of testing until the diff outdrive broke. Not on a 100’ jump at 50mph, but bounce over my driveway. Rear end came up, I hit throttle to bring it down and it breaks. Mind you this is slow speed and less than a foot off ground in rear. So I order and wait for parts, fix it up and take it out again today. All is going great, big jumps, wheelies, the works. Then like before a slow speed blip over a bump on a side of a jump I’m going to line up and hit, rear goes up, I throttle it down and same drive cup shattered again. So it’s breaking with rear up in air and front down on ground on throttle if that makes sense. I don’t know what to think. Droop is set, driveshafts aren’t hitting the cups at full droop or compression, there was no binding, I just don’t get it. My patience for “extreme bash” is about gone. Any suggestions here guys, this truck just isn’t fun anymore.

View attachment 137480

View attachment 137481

TRY MAXAMP BATTERIES LIKE 800 MAH 150 C BATTERIES THAT WILL GET ER DOND.. DAVE/DADDYO.

 

[Woodley99]

Just want to confirm what @FatCatRC and others had said that fixed a somewhat similar problem for me (minus breaking the outdrive cup) if you remove the red washer on the lower front control arms, it brings the driveshaft in enough to keep it from almost ever from popping out. It also will make your camber a more desirable 1.5-2 degrees. Worked awesome for me