Granite I am Wheel Frustrated!

[ridgehead44]

Okay, that was a terrible pun. Awful. But, in all seriousness, I am getting really frustrated with my little rig. The issues stem from the drive shafts. In the past two weeks I can't get a full 3S pack through it without a little breakdown. Here are the issues I had:

1. The wheel axel came off the drive shaft, throwing the wheel, hub and hex adapter from the vehicle. This happened twice on separate occasions. I upgraded from blue to red thread locker to hold the wheel axels in place.

2. The composite rear sliders keep popping out at the joint closest to the wheel hub. The composite doesn't break, but bends and pops loose. I replaced the slider when this happened originally, as it looked too bent to stay in place. It happened again with a brand new slider.

I run a HW MAX10SCT with 100c 3S batteries, on an 18 tooth pinion. The rig has Proline 17mm adapter/extenders with Badland tires. I could understand the higher output, or heavier wheels could stress the sliders, but they seem to be very popular/successful with others in the hobby.

I think the red thread locker should do the job, but what about the bending in the joints on the sliders? I know there are upgraded CVDs available, but I hear they stress the drive train. I'd like to keep the stock sliders if possible. Did I just have a streak of bad luck with these sliders, or should I try something else?

Any help is much appreciated. Thank you in advance!

 

[Velodromed]

You shouldn’t use red Loctite. You do need to clean the screws as well as the screw hole with alcohol or brake cleaner, then let dry, apply Loctite and finish tightening.

Loosen your slipper 1/2-3/4ths turn. That will spare your driveshafts until you become more accustomed to driving the car. Never land on power when you jump, ease up on the throttle going from hard traction to soft traction surfaces, even though they’re fun wheelies are not your drive trains friend, avoid tall grass. An 18t pinion is pretty big for a granite. Try 16t.

The 3s CVDs are stupid expensive and I was not very impressed with them. They may work for you though. For me, the axles kept breaking. They are made out of sintered metal, really grainy sintered metal. Badlands are good tires. I’ve run them on two, 3s cars for the last 18 months.

Driving habits typically cause most issues. Being extremely hard on the throttle, sending it wildly, not maintaining it well and doing all those other things I mentioned before. It also takes a while to develop the muscle memory, reactions as well as learn how to drive the cars within their limits.

Be patient, it’ll all come together. Meanwhile, relax and enjoy the car.

 

[razorrc]

You need to loosen your slipper.

 

[islandlife]

I was having the same issue with the rear stock driveshafts on my granite, in my case im sure it was help by terrible driving.
I put gpm metal shafts in the rear and have not had a problem since. Although the quality seems a bit hit or miss with gpm stuff, mine have been fine.

 

[katydon]

Okay, that was a terrible pun. Awful. But, in all seriousness, I am getting really frustrated with my little rig. The issues stem from the drive shafts. In the past two weeks I can't get a full 3S pack through it without a little breakdown. Here are the issues I had:

1. The wheel axel came off the drive shaft, throwing the wheel, hub and hex adapter from the vehicle. This happened twice on separate occasions. I upgraded from blue to red thread locker to hold the wheel axels in place.

2. The composite rear sliders keep popping out at the joint closest to the wheel hub. The composite doesn't break, but bends and pops loose. I replaced the slider when this happened originally, as it looked too bent to stay in place. It happened again with a brand new slider.
I
I run a HW MAX10SCT with 100c 3S batteries, on an 18 tooth pinion. The rig has Proline 17mm adapter/extenders with Badland tires. I could understand the higher output, or heavier wheels could stress the sliders, but they seem to be very popular/successful with others in the hobby.

I think the red thread locker should do the job, but what about the bending in the joints on the sliders? I know there are upgraded CVDs available, but I hear they stress the drive train. I'd like to keep the stock sliders if possible. Did I just have a streak of bad luck with these sliders, or should I try something else?

Any help is much appreciated. Thank you in advance!

I had the same problem with my Vorteks when I put ProLine Trenchers on it the drive lines blew out immediately RPM metal drive shafts from ebay fixed it haven't had any issues since.

I had the same problem with my Vorteks when I put ProLine Trenchers on it the drive lines blew out immediately RPM metal drive shafts from ebay fixed it haven't had any issues since.

excuse me GPM metal drive shafts from ebay

 

[ridgehead44]

Hey, all. Quick follow up. I got (almost) 3 packs through the rig this week without mishap. The drive shafts and wheel axels held tight. I was driving pretty gentle. I live in a suburban area, with two lots that have been turned into small greenbelts because they have gas mains beneath them. I've been ripping around there for the most part, no major sends or anything. They're not even big enough to maintain full speed, but they're mostly smooth and flat with well-maintained grass.
Then this morning I drove into one of those metal signs alerting residents "No Building! Gas Lines Present."
I sheared off an A-arm in brutal fashion. It was totally my fault. I need to focus more on looking ahead of where the truck is going, rather than where it is. Oh well, should be an easy fix. Good lesson too.

Thanks to everyone for the advice!

 

[Velodromed]

Hey, all. Quick follow up. I got (almost) 3 packs through the rig this week without mishap. The drive shafts and wheel axels held tight. I was driving pretty gentle. I live in a suburban area, with two lots that have been turned into small greenbelts because they have gas mains beneath them. I've been ripping around there for the most part, no major sends or anything. They're not even big enough to maintain full speed, but they're mostly smooth and flat with well-maintained grass.
Then this morning I drove into one of those metal signs alerting residents "No Building! Gas Lines Present."
I sheared off an A-arm in brutal fashion. It was totally my fault. I need to focus more on looking ahead of where the truck is going, rather than where it is. Oh well, should be an easy fix. Good lesson too.

Thanks to everyone for the advice!

Man… over two years into this hobby, and I am still constantly reminding myself to keep my peripheral vision on the 20 feet in front of my car at all times. It sucks to slam into something immovable. I also have to be careful about my depth perception. It’s not what it used to be so I’ve learned to not trust it so much.

Glad to hear you got your rig dialed in pretty good. Three packs without damage is a good start. You may feel like you’re being careful now and driving a bit slow, but it’ll all come together overtime and you’ll be ripping it up, barely within your limitations before long. Just have to get that mind and muscle, memory down and develop good driving habits while increasing your speed at the same time.

There are several sections at my local park that mimic perfectly rough areas that will normally throw the car when I hit them hard. I will sit and hit those sections over and over, understanding how my car drives and getting the muscle reactions down as well as fine-tuning the suspension, etc. It helps a lot when I’m out driving in other areas. My mind and hands go on automatic and control the car, rather then than letting the car control me.

Those learned driving habits are so important. I love wheelies, but I know if i slam the throttle from the stand still it’s hard on driveshafts and diffs. So I automatically get the car moving a bit before hitting the throttle and enjoying a wheelie. I know going from loose too hard traction sections is hard on the car also, so I automatically let off the throttle a little bit when hitting those. As for rotation control, it’s not just for hitting ramps and catching air. It’s extremely important to get your throttle finger to automatically give or take when hitting rough sections and catching small air at speed. Helps avoid tumbles and so forth. Good luck with getting your car fixed, then get back out there and bash it again!

 

[ridgehead44]

I really appreciate the awesome advice and encouragement! Thank you so much!