I can't decide which 4s LiPo to get

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I have hobbies star hard case 6s lipos. I just put one on my charger that I store charged 7 months ago and it was still roughly at 3.8 on each cell. Going to say it's a pretty good battery. Line or battery tray though because if not they will crack.
 
I just bought 2-3S 6200mah Hobby Star soft case lipos and they've been really good. Only thing that kind of bothers me is they don't seem to last much longer than my 5200mah Onyx batteries.
 
Get a good battery. I run orions and zappers. You will notice a huge difference when you step up to a quality battery. Nothing beats a true 120c
 
Never believe the battery label. Discharge is ALWAYS inflated.

There isn’t a true 100c on the market. Lies, lies, lies, lol.

Best part about Maxamps batties, their customer service. Their batties are barely higher in discharge than Traxxas. But both companies will gladly replace yours if they’re bad.
 
Never believe the battery label. Discharge is ALWAYS inflated.

There isn’t a true 100c on the market. Lies, lies, lies, lol.

Best part about Maxamps batties, their customer service. Their batties are barely higher in discharge than Traxxas. But both companies will gladly replace yours if they’re bad.

Buy a roar approved battery so you can use it to race if you ever decide to. You will notice a difference. The reason you probably don't notice is Cause you can't use the extra discharge.
 
Get a good battery. I run orions and zappers. You will notice a huge difference when you step up to a quality battery. Nothing beats a true 120c

Too bad there is not a true 120C battery made. The best of the best test out around 50C, with the new Turnigy Graphine Panther packs testing around 55C. Also beware thinking that $$$ will buy you a great battery, some of the highest $$$ big name 100c-150c packs often test out around a true 30c-35c..

Worth reading-
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1767093-Battery-Load-Test-Comparisons#post23223191
There are a few other guys on that forum that do REAL load testing of batteries, and they pretty much all agree about which brands are decent and which just lie about cell ratings.

Buy a roar approved battery so you can use it to race if you ever decide to. You will notice a difference. The reason you probably don't notice is Cause you can't use the extra discharge.

The ROAR rating is mostly about the physical size of the battery, and that it is made with 4.2v cells, and not the "High Voltage" cells. C-rating, mah, quality have nothing to do with the ROAR rating. The main thing you get with a ROAR pack is you know it is a "standard" size that will fit pretty much any 1/10 or 1/8 scale car.
 
Buy a roar approved battery so you can use it to race if you ever decide to. You will notice a difference. The reason you probably don't notice is Cause you can't use the extra discharge.

I’m quite happy with my Turnigy Graphenes, lol.

I as well as Jerry-R speak of the truth. The lipo industry is not regulated. They can state whatever they want on their batty labels.

I run boats too. I’m building an mhz 114 with 2 Neu 1860kv motors. Overkill but I got a good price on two 300a esc’s as well.
I also have the Giles lipo meter.
Preachin 2 the choir, lol.....
 
A good battery cost as much as a good battery. Theres only a few that are way to pricey but they arent even better i agree. My 120c orion batteries are faster then my practice batteries and they stating 60c/120c same mah. I don't know anything about them other then they are faster lol
 
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