How much in-fill should I get in my 3s print?
I am getting a front wing printed for my speed run car.
I am getting a front wing printed for my speed run car.
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im honestly not sure, because if you use 25% for example, it will be a lot stronger, but slightly heavier, in my opinion, i think that the thicker fill would be better because if you crash it or something it won't instantly break, and with a really low fill, it might even be a little bit floppy.How much in-fill should I get in my 3s print?
I am getting a front wing printed for my speed run car.
View attachment 131006
like i said, im no expert so 10% sounds goodI was thinking 10%. I am also paying the library for this so....
The cost for an Ultimaker print is a $2.00 set-up fee plus $0.08 per gram (PLA) and $0.19 per gram (PVA supports), not including HST.Is it by the hour?
Oh that isn't bad... I would go 10% infill and 4 walls/top/bottom layers. If you send me the stl I can tell you how much it will be.The cost for an Ultimaker print is a $2.00 set-up fee plus $0.08 per gram (PLA) and $0.19 per gram (PVA supports), not including HST.
What do you all need to print PETG. My dad ordered some and it should get here May. Hoping to get the printer ready for it before it gets here. Enclosure, all metal hot end, hardend tips, anything else?Actually it’s perimeters that affect strength more than infill. When I want strength, I go to 4 perimeters instead of 2. Good luck
Hurricane
In general you don’t need much for PETG. Unless your printer is in a drafty area you don’t need an enclosure. Hardened nozzle isn’t a bad idea but not required unless you are using carbon fiber mixed PETG Or other abrasive filament. PETG isn‘t abrasive more than PLA. The temps will be higher but not crazy.What do you all need to print PETG. My dad ordered some and it should get here May. Hoping to get the printer ready for it before it gets here. Enclosure, all metal hot end, hardend tips, anything else?
Creality Ender 3 w/ glass bed, direct drive, dual z axis motors, bl touch, and 64 bit board.In general you don’t need much for PETG. Unless your printer is in a drafty area you don’t need an enclosure. Hardened nozzle isn’t a bad idea but not required unless you are using carbon fiber mixed PETG Or other abrasive filament. PETG isn‘t abrasive more than PLA. The temps will be higher but not crazy.
The one difference might be how you prep your bed. I have Prusa’s and could speak to those... like don’t use IPA to clean the bed because the print could grip too much and ruin the print surface. Use window cleaner. if you have another printer I’d search the interwebs for tips specific to your printer/print bed surface.
May is a long time to wait for PETG. I have great luck with 3D solutech see thru PETG on Amazon. The green and yellow are really good colors. Usually on sale for 20.99.
good luck!
Hurricane
yeah I‘m not as patient as your dad to wait a month for a restock. The 3d solutech is available now and I could get overnight shipping. Good luck with your PETG adventure... I use it more that PLA.Creality Ender 3 w/ glass bed, direct drive, dual z axis motors, bl touch, and 64 bit board.
My dad ordered Hatchbox PETG. We've been using Hatchbox pla and it is a big difference with that and the stuff you buy from creality. I extruded a long string of black hatchbox with blue creality stuff already in the nozzle to get the blue out, and I could run my hand down the string with my eyes closed and tell the difference between the two brands. It still works though.
The hatchbox PETG is around $22 I think.
https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B014VM95IK/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=petg+hatchbox&qid=1617467216&sr=8-2&th=1
We have a all metal hot end, just not installed yet. We already have about 5 feet of PETG so I could print something small I guess.
How many wall layers is that lol. And in cura for me, I think part of the wall layers is the holes too. So there are 6 circles around the holes too. If you know what I mean. And I am actually doing 50% not 75%.I typically look at the preview in Cura and look at how the infill works around the mounting holes and other stress points. Then pick the one that provides good support with minimal infill %.
It seems to always vary depending on the part, shape, and infill patern.
For example this one 30% triangles looked about right to me:
(multiple contact points around the mounting holes in each direction)
View attachment 137415
I believe it is set to 2 layers. You are seeing the skirt/brim/raft attachment on the outside of the part.How many wall layers is that lol. And in cura for me, I think part of the wall layers is the holes too. So there are 6 circles around the holes too. If you know what I mean. And I am actually doing 50% not 75%.
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