Kraton I finally give up...

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Mk_Rc

have a nice day arrma maniacs ✌
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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Kraton 6s
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after more attempts to unscrew the wheel grub screw I don't know what to do anymore ? i tried with a brenner to dissolve loctite ... unsuccessfully
2 screw are totaly stripped and don't know how to get it out...i need help what else i can do??

20200103_154239.jpg


Do you have same problem with unscrewing this grub screws and how you resolve this problem?

Are stock bearings really that bad to be immediately changed up?

Tnx
 
Damn. When I’m working on cars I normally drill out and re-tap if I have to. Seeing as this is much smaller scale and different materials I wouldn’t know what to suggest safely and properly. But then I am fortunate as I have the right tools to do that. Most guys don’t. So I would wait for the others to chime in for suggestions.
 
I'm in for suggestions as well.

I have 2 that stripped and i tried to drill out but that cursed pin!!! Willing to sacrifice the hubs to get the dogbones.
 
Isit rounded? Or just can't unscrew it? Get a flame proof lighter or a small blow torch creme brelarer or however it's spelt apply a low heat directly at the grub make sure its on a low flame, and then it will unscrew with ease, if it's rounded then try using a torx bit by heating and hammering it in, also use a 17mm ring spanner on the hex you will get more leverage that way ?? hope this helps
 
I've been there... and this is what to do..

The unsealed stock bearings are fine until they become rough so keep using them for now if they are ok.

Once the bearings become rough and do need replacing you will have to use a good quality punch to knock the hex pins out and possibly drill out the grub screws... but only if you cant knock the pins back into the hexes with the damaged grubs still in place.

The wheels when secured in place, stop the pins falling out btw.. but glue the pins in temporarily just to avoid losing them once you have done that.

The loose pin movement will eventually elongate and damage the hexes causing play so you will need to replace them, the shafts and the grub screws once that starts happening.. but I don't see any reason why you shouldnt keep running it until they all arrive.

Anyone attempting to remive these grub screws needs to attack them with major heat for a minute or two before even thinking about attempting to unscrew them.
I had good success with removing 2 of the damaged grubscrews with a wera hex+ bit that still snapped into place and unscrewed it. ...AFTER... my arrowmax hexes were just spinning and had already damaged the grubs. Amazing!
It might be too chewed up for the wera hex+ bits now but for £9.99 a set its a very worthwhile hex set to have on your bench even if just for situations like this.
 
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Damn. When I’m working on cars I normally drill out and re-tap if I have to. Seeing as this is much smaller scale and different materials I wouldn’t know what to suggest safely and properly. But then I am fortunate as I have the right tools to do that. Most guys don’t. So I would wait for the others to chime in for suggestions.
thank you. I do have eds tools so is not bad at all, to be tools a reason for that. screws and loctite on it just wont give up...why why why so much loctite ?
 
I had to drill them out after I stripped one with the factory Allen wrenches. Take your time, and you will be able to get it out.

I ended up drilling too deep and went halfway through the pin so I needed a replacement.

I used a drill bit that I cut for the pin and believe it is still in there now that I think about it ?

I have invested in a torch to apply heat to the areas that have the famous red loctite on from the factory. Others have used a soldering iron for a heat source. Heat makes these come apart easily, as well as using quality drivers. If you haven't already, check out M.I.P. for tools.
 
I have a small torch that came with a soldering tip no one would use for soldering, but it heats up quickly and is perfect for the job. Unfortunately it wouldn't be much help to you in your current situation, still to help save on future headaches this is the one I use...

Ok, nvm, after looking up the one I have so I can post a link I found out they have been recalled due to safety issues, so I can't responsibly recommend it. But any small butane torch with a soldering tip will work. You could use the open flame of a torch, but use caution around plastic parts. That's why I use the tip.
 
I'd tried a few mins with a normal soldering iron on each grub but it didnt work.... had to dig out my really powerful soldering gun that can make the tips glow bright orange and apply for 2 mins before re-attempting with the wera hex+ bit..

Why use such brutally stubborn loctite Arrma?
 
Left handed drill bits they are called
In my case a soldering iron does absolutly nothing i can touch the screw and nit burn myself what i do i take a freaking lighter or a candle and leave it on the screw for a minute and that always works
And my soldering iron is not trash because i can solder high gage wires with no issues
 
@Badtouch The basher thank you for all your suggesstion...this two screws are stipped out...i use drilling machine and make little deep hole inside...when i put torx on it and try to unscrew but not sucessefull...so now is just big hole to the pin and no torx can fill that space tight ?

@Ari33 thank you with all that info. pins are hard to get out as well...i think i did not heat them enough, and that should be a reason why they won't give up and successfully unscrewed ? i will order all stuff what i need... and until that they come i will drive my kraton...next week i expecting a battery to show up and finnaly test kraton
 
Might become compketly dark but a litle wipe with a towel will remove all of the black residu left
Best thing would be the screw to become red hot? At that point your sure its going to come out.
 
I had to drill them out after I stripped one with the factory Allen wrenches. Take your time, and you will be able to get it out.

I ended up drilling too deep and went halfway through the pin so I needed a replacement.

I used a drill bit that I cut for the pin and believe it is still in there now that I think about it ?

I have invested in a torch to apply heat to the areas that have the famous red loctite on from the factory. Others have used a soldering iron for a heat source. Heat makes these come apart easily, as well as using quality drivers. If you haven't already, check out M.I.P. for tools.

I see you'll all have been here ? i am the green one on 6s line of arrma cars...i learning and all mistakes is good school for s future ☺ i have team Eds tools but i heard very good things about MIP the king of rc tools! deffinitly something to must have.

@Ari33 i asking my self about this as well? ?
 
I see you'll all have been here ? i am the green one on 6s line of arrma cars...i learning and all mistakes is good school for s future ☺ i have team Eds tools but i heard very good things about MIP the king of rc tools! deffinitly something to must have.

@Ari33 i asking my self about this as well? ?

If you can get MIP do it. I'm in the process of switching all mine over. One of the best decisions I've made. You really do get your money's worth.
 
I had to remove the hub and put it in a vise to get the pin out. After that I put it back in the vise and heated it up good with a torch. Beat a flat head in and it came out like butter.
 
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