Typhon I hate the slipper assembly plastic nut

[HZRDOS]

Just saying. The ones with the plastic nut, I have taken two apart on different cars, but I shear the damn screw. I back it out as slown and steady as I can...still shears. So this is the second time I am ordering the hub assembly that is threaded without the plastic nut. Whatever. Easy fix, just frustrating. Upgrading the 3s Typhon to the metal slipper now...so should not have to deal with it again.

 

[jondilly1974]

Just saying. The ones with the plastic nut, I have taken two apart on different cars, but I shear the damn screw. I back it out as slown and steady as I can...still shears. So this is the second time I am ordering the hub assembly that is threaded without the plastic nut. Whatever. Easy fix, just frustrating. Upgrading the 3s Typhon to the metal slipper now...so should not have to deal with it again.

I find that slow and steady strips screws. I like to crack them loose with a quick flip of the wrist. Hard and fast and they break loose and I never have an issue. It seems to go against common sense but it’s working for me.

 

[HZRDOS]

Both did the same thing. Got it out a few turns, then it gets tight and shears. Not from the initial break loose.

 

[jondilly1974]

Both did the same thing. Got it out a few turns, then it gets tight and shears. Not from the initial break loose.

That’s unfortunate. Haven’t had one break like that. Maybe you need to clean the threads before trying to loosen it. Might have debris on the threads.

 

[Harriot10]

That’s unfortunate. Haven’t had one break like that. Maybe you need to clean the threads before trying to loosen it. Might have debris on the threads.

Probably TL! Arrma loves that stuff

 

[HZRDOS]

That’s unfortunate. Haven’t had one break like that. Maybe you need to clean the threads before trying to loosen it. Might have debris on the threads.

Yeah. Makes me think I am doing something wrong, but don't know what. It is a small long screw. Like a 2x20mm or something, so is prone to shear. Only screw I ever break, and the same one, just don't know what I am doing wrong. But...like I said, ordered the non nut threaded hub...so just have to TL it like the other one I did, and won't have to deal with the nut again since this is my only other 3s car with a slipper.

 

[jondilly1974]

Probably TL! Arrma loves that stuff

When using the nut, you don’t need TL

 

[toolideas]

I have mixed emotions about thread lock.. I know it works but after I used it on my nuts it felt like I was on fire!!!
is this normal???

 

[Harriot10]

When using the nut, you don’t need TL

I agree! I haven't used the new version with the nut, but I've had plenty of troubles early on with that dam slipper. I must of snapped half a dozen slipper hub assemblies, but never snapped the screw. I was just saying I wouldn't be surprised if they are coming from the factory with TL.

I have mixed emotions about thread lock.. I know it works but after I used it on my nuts it felt like I was on fire!!!
is this normal???

You don't need TL if you are using the V3 version with the nylon nut.

 

[Kla912000]

I have mixed emotions about thread lock.. I know it works but after I used it on my nuts it felt like I was on fire!!!
is this normal???

Yeah, you're not supposed to put it on your nuts. You might have to go to the hospital if the burning doesn't go away. Lol

 

[GRC]

I've been in love with the plastic nut. After I installed it I didn't haven't any troubles with my slipper coming loose. However, recently I got new tires so I could run on grass better. I was pulling wheelies like crazy (which is bad in my book), so I experimented with different slipper settings. Now the plastic nut doesn't hold anymore. I ordered a new one, and I know what slipper setting I want, so I'm going to set it once and forget it. So my take is, it's great if you know what slipper setting you want, but once you start adjusting, disassembling, you may need a new one.

 

[Paul777]

The problem is that nobody told the Arrma factory to stop using threadlock when they went to the plastic locknuts. You have to be very careful first time you disassemble then clean the bolt threads before reassembly. I learnt the hard way and got a new half of the slipper under warranty as it stripped the threads in the aluminium. You can't use heat because of the plastic in there - best option I've found is to poor acetone down the hole before you start and let it soak - it softens the threadlock, then work the bolt out back and forth very gently, more acetone if it is still stiff. The threadlock you need to soften is the stuff that has stuck the plastic to the bolt threads, if you unscrew that by turning hard through the aluminium it will break something. Once you get the bolt out you will see the threadlock and plastic gumming it up that needs cleaning - soak in acetone for a while is easiest way I've found.
Once everything is clean reassemble with no threadlock and so far I've found the black plastic lock nuts to work very well.

 

[GRC]

Got a new plastic nut in, set the slipper once and didn't mess with it. It's been holding under high traction, hard bashing conditions. I think the plastic nut doesn't hold up well to repeated adjustments. If it starts slipping, get a new one, use the new screw, set it once, don't use loc-tite.

EDIT: My second plastic nut failed as well. I'm going back to loc-tite.

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

I added TL to my constantly coming loose slipper and several packs and lots of wheelies confirms its fixed.

 

[Paul777]

I added TL to my constantly coming loose slipper and several packs and lots of wheelies confirms its fixed.

If you use threadlock with the plastic lock nut it will be a problem getting it apart without wrecking something when you next want to adjust it as the plastic will give way before the threadlock clogging the threads which then strip the threads in the aluminium as you try to unscrew it. If you have the version either pre-lock nut or the lock nut with brass insert then threadlock is required.
My advice to anyone having issue would be to get a new bolt and new plastic lock nut make sure not to get any lubricant near it and it should be fine.
If it is still an issue then check the thrust bearing - the tiny one between the bolt head and spring, if that doesn't run free when under compression and have the race plates round the correct way then slipper will not stay adjusted - that bearing is required because the slippers in these cars allow front and rear to slip by different amounts and the rear has more plates (3 surfaces vs 1 in the front) to try and direct more power there. If the bearing is stuck then when the front and rear slip differently it will turn the bolt and adjust the slipper. You get a new bearing in the same kit as the bolt and lock nut (ARA311033).

 

[Kla912000]

If you use threadlock with the plastic lock nut it will be a problem getting it apart without wrecking something when you next want to adjust it as the plastic will give way before the threadlock clogging the threads which then strip the threads in the aluminium as you try to unscrew it. If you have the version either pre-lock nut or the lock nut with brass insert then threadlock is required.
My advice to anyone having issue would be to get a new bolt and new plastic lock nut make sure not to get any lubricant near it and it should be fine.
If it is still an issue then check the thrust bearing - the tiny one between the bolt head and spring, if that doesn't run free when under compression and have the race plates round the correct way then slipper will not stay adjusted - that bearing is required because the slippers in these cars allow front and rear to slip by different amounts and the rear has more plates (3 surfaces vs 1 in the front) to try and direct more power there. If the bearing is stuck then when the front and rear slip differently it will turn the bolt and adjust the slipper. You get a new bearing in the same kit as the bolt and lock nut (ARA311033).

^^^^^This is exactly correct ^^^^^

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

Yep that's great advice but right now it's all about been able to drive my RC and it's holding up fine with the TL. I have a spare complete slipper assembly so all good.

 

[GRC]

Got a new plastic nut in, set the slipper once and didn't mess with it. It's been holding under high traction, hard bashing conditions. I think the plastic nut doesn't hold up well to repeated adjustments. If it starts slipping, get a new one, use the new screw, set it once, don't use loc-tite.

I'm going to retract this. My second slipper nut is no longer holding. I went hard reverse and when I went to drive again, the slipper was slipping. Apparently hard reverse can back out the screw. I re-tightened it, but it loosened again in no time. Looks like it's back to loc-tite, no slipper nut.

 

[HZRDOS]

I'm going to retract this. My second slipper nut is no longer holding. I went hard reverse and when I went to drive again, the slipper was slipping. Apparently hard reverse can back out the screw. I re-tightened it, but it loosened again in no time. Looks like it's back to loc-tite, no slipper nut.

That has worked for me. No nut, TL, let cure for a day or two, never an issue on two different cars.

 

[Freelander]

Can you get the old version slipper clutch assembly version 2 setup? Is the new one the same except extra plastic nut?

Can you just buy the new one and skip the nut? I like my rear input gear just like it is.