Notorious I have some work to do....

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Received my truck in January.
Crashed it a few times, broke several pieces, and reading the forum for suggestions.... = pile of parts.

(just saw Notorius…! Sorry, I don't know if you can do the same thing with center diff)

You can add tower braces with Traxxas tunbuckle (5539), Arrma rod end and Arrma spacers; kind of "triangle" braces with stock angular chassis braces.

33547


33548


Even with 5 braces, there's still a little chassis swing... It must be not overtight, because chassis will broke down at first bad camel jump landing.
PL
 
Last edited:
I am putting on the M2c chassis, with voltage rear shock tower.

At this point I think I will wait to see if anything else breaks such as the front shock tower or I need for chassis braces.

I think the chassis braces are redundant although I could be wrong and it will bite me in the ass.
 
OK, your turn. Tell me how to put this back together? ?
 

Attachments

  • 8D1C522D-0FAC-4FFA-952D-D4633C8DDEAC.jpeg
    8D1C522D-0FAC-4FFA-952D-D4633C8DDEAC.jpeg
    348.4 KB · Views: 69
8,001

So I finally got some spare time to head back to the garage after a few days.

I read a tip on here on using naphtha to clean the old diff fluid off before I reassemble and put the new fluid in.

I just happen to have some already so I grabbed it and an old sacrificial Tupperware.

I start putting the bits and pieces gears and pans etc. into the Tupperware and grab the diff housing and the silver piece with the seal falls out. I go to pick it up and noticed there is a tab sticking off of it. I look closer to figure out what it is and realize that it is part of the diff housing itself. If you look in the picture on the inside of house and you can see where part of it broke away.

WTF? I did not push the part out it fell out as soon as I lifted up the housing, and this truck only has three-four runs on it.

So if that part, I will buy something sturdier. I hate all this downtime and broken bits and pieces so I’m trying to bulletproof it now so I will not need to do this again in the future.

Someone please tell me what the best part to buy for this piece is.

Thank you.
 

Attachments

  • 0C1E8515-9536-44E2-B787-1BA954E01C83.jpeg
    0C1E8515-9536-44E2-B787-1BA954E01C83.jpeg
    292 KB · Views: 423
  • 2BE83A55-E455-433A-A17E-96A11784BEA7.jpeg
    2BE83A55-E455-433A-A17E-96A11784BEA7.jpeg
    282.9 KB · Views: 51
  • CB8D5E5B-5F58-4ECE-816F-29F067EB1B1C.jpeg
    CB8D5E5B-5F58-4ECE-816F-29F067EB1B1C.jpeg
    232.1 KB · Views: 51
8,001

So I finally got some spare time to head back to the garage after a few days.

I read a tip on here on using naphtha to clean the old diff fluid off before I reassemble and put the new fluid in.

I just happen to have some already so I grabbed it and an old sacrificial Tupperware.

I start putting the bits and pieces gears and pans etc. into the Tupperware and grab the diff housing and the silver piece with the seal falls out. I go to pick it up and noticed there is a tab sticking off of it. I look closer to figure out what it is and realize that it is part of the diff housing itself. If you look in the picture on the inside of house and you can see where part of it broke away.

WTF? I did not push the part out it fell out as soon as I lifted up the housing, and this truck only has three-four runs on it.

So if that part, I will buy something sturdier. I hate all this downtime and broken bits and pieces so I’m trying to bulletproof it now so I will not need to do this again in the future.

Someone please tell me what the best part to buy for this piece is.

Thank you.
Hot Racing makes aluminum dif cups:
https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=AON1101;c=926

but once you've clean it up, couldn't you use some CA glue and put that piece back in?
 
I could... but why? If anything I would just buy a new stock plastic one that was never broken as they are probably very cheap.

But for a few bucks more, I'll put something stronger in there.

Just bought the HR one off Ebay. I had a $5 credit Ebay gave me- when stuff has a guaranteed delivery date and it doesn't show- click that and they give you credit.

They also have a $3 off coupon that worked today- https://slickdeals.net/f/12960631-ebay-coupons-3-off-3-01-purchase-and-5-off?src=frontpage

So I paid $18.88 for the part.

I was going to buy 3, but I'll wait for now and see what the center and rear look like when I get there.
 
Nice documention in this thread. Just thought I’d let you and others know for around 37 bucks you can get front/read assembled diff which includes housing, cups, ring, pinion and the dif itself from Jennysrc. Doesn’t hurt to have an extra around.
 
Have a little time tonight so doing the other side of my front end.

Tremendous time suck this thing is and I am not even maybe 20% through the project yet.

I am really hoping it will be a while before it breaks once I am done.
 

Attachments

  • 15BD869D-7A7B-4CAD-89E5-FE2869733967.jpeg
    15BD869D-7A7B-4CAD-89E5-FE2869733967.jpeg
    332.3 KB · Views: 44
While putting this together I have a question.

The aluminum Allen key caps I removed to take out the balls that go into the a arms why is the end of the Allen key area open?

All that does is allow dirt directly into a moving rubbing surface.

I know that the ball itself is exposed on the inside but anything we can do to stop dirt is an improvement.

That being said I am going to put a glob of RTV in each one to block that from happening and I can remove it easily for service in the future.

Another solution would be a simple flat disc like a washer without a hole in the middle on the rear end before installing these caps.

Are these joints any sort of an issue on these cars? Wear item and how long?
 
Tekno shock end, metal ball and spring retainer w/ grub screw securing both together-
 

Attachments

  • DCFDA6F2-59C5-46F8-B634-CBC97B8C7C3C.jpeg
    DCFDA6F2-59C5-46F8-B634-CBC97B8C7C3C.jpeg
    197.8 KB · Views: 39
Time to rip in whatever you guys call this front center piece to replace the bearings there.

After that I will start to work on the rear end, as I am waiting on a new front diff case if you didn’t see the other post where I noticed it was broken when I disassembled it.
 

Attachments

  • CE1E21A5-49A0-4799-8DA3-087E0FBCB2D4.jpeg
    CE1E21A5-49A0-4799-8DA3-087E0FBCB2D4.jpeg
    262.9 KB · Views: 41
Starting to get pissed off at the Loctite.

Grub screw removed and the flange still will not budge. Wondering how many times I’m going to have to take a torch to this thing.

A big part of the reason why I am back to playing with RC cars after decades is because I was sick and tired of working on real cars to go fast.
 

Attachments

  • 9CD61F61-099B-41B6-85B1-5AF7D8A96670.jpeg
    9CD61F61-099B-41B6-85B1-5AF7D8A96670.jpeg
    240.9 KB · Views: 44
Correction. Yes I’m a noob. Upon more thought- a punch and small dead blow knock the center out quick and easy with one tap.
 

Attachments

  • AAAAEC8A-CDCD-4307-B00B-4253F767CBC5.jpeg
    AAAAEC8A-CDCD-4307-B00B-4253F767CBC5.jpeg
    247.6 KB · Views: 49
Back at it again.

Putting the front center transfer case back together.

Has anyone else ever noticed that the wear pattern on this center gear is on the back third closest to the bearing with a consistent scraped cross mark at 45° up to each tip.

I’m no engineer, but I would think maybe a shim here would be advised as well?

That guess being said, I am already way too much time and money invested just to get it back on the road after only running at two or three times.

I will look at this again in the future and make adjustments at that time if I feel necessary.
 

Attachments

  • 6D677333-B6CB-478A-9A0D-C57BD8D2D603.jpeg
    6D677333-B6CB-478A-9A0D-C57BD8D2D603.jpeg
    170.4 KB · Views: 53
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top