Kraton I just need some advice

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Northmoboy

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I am new to the forum. However, I have followed this site as well as many others as I am preparing to get back into RC after 30 years. I thought I had made my mind up to purchase one of the Arrma 3s line. After reading all the problems with broken parts and the need to upgrade everything, I have decided to look at one of the 6s models like the Kraton. Will a stock Kraton 6s be as reliable as a 3s with the needed upgrades. I don't want to have keep upgrading parts to get a reliable RC truck. You guys that have "been there, done that" have any wisdom or advice for me. I am experienced in electronics/electrical so that part does not bother me, its just I don't want to keep having to upgrade parts all the time. Thanks so much.
 
I am new to the forum. However, I have followed this site as well as many others as I am preparing to get back into RC after 30 years. I thought I had made my mind up to purchase one of the Arrma 3s line. After reading all the problems with broken parts and the need to upgrade everything, I have decided to look at one of the 6s models like the Kraton. Will a stock Kraton 6s be as reliable as a 3s with the needed upgrades. I don't want to have keep upgrading parts to get a reliable RC truck. You guys that have "been there, done that" have any wisdom or advice for me. I am experienced in electronics/electrical so that part does not bother me, its just I don't want to keep having to upgrade parts all the time. Thanks so much.
Iimo an experience all the arrma cars are very durable to an extent.crash into solid object at 50mph any an all rcs break.my old slash wouldn't do 50mph if it did a hit something it would be in million peoces.my senton would far out alot better in same crash senerio.some small crashs cause major damage an some u expect to be bad aren't. Car this typhon outa range an went off road 1/4 mile down road...top speed 138mph.after finding it it wasn't as bad as I expected.took 3 hrs to find it in ditch with 6ft weeds/cattails, mud,trash,etc.broken wing mount is all I see.haven't disassembled yet thou.

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The 3s line is great, crucially there lighter than 6s so don't break as easily. Parts are generally cheaper and more plastic so it flexes rather than bends. I have two 3s line vehicles and haven't upgraded anything that actually needed it, I have broken things but that depends on how you drive it and will happen on anything. Honestly, you can't really go wrong with a Big Rock or Granite. When I've crashed after a big jump they bounce and don't break. I have stripped the spur gear a couple of times but that was my fault for landing on the throttle. And better the spur gear than the diff. Haven't even broken an A arm yet.
 
You kinda contradict yourself. Said you don't want a 3s cause of parts breaking but ask if the Kraton 6s is as reliable as the 3s line.

For what it's worth, the 3s rigs are very durable due to their light weight and strong plastics. Yes, parts do break, but that's the nature of this hobby. You send one of these 3s truck off a ramp 20 feet high and land wrong you are gonna break something. But as far as durability goes, Arrma's 3s line is very good. Plus when you do break something, the parts are very inexpensive and easy to fix.

The 6s Arrmas are great also. But when you break something it's gonna cost you a lot more than a 3s rig. Just do your due diligence no matter what you chose and check it over when you get it. Thread lock can be your best friend!
 
@Northmoboy Just make sure you get at least a blx (brushless motor) version, you don't want a mega (brushed motor) or you will be upgrading almost immediately.

Welcome aboard and happy hunting! :)
 
Having a 3S Senton and a 6S Kraton EXB, I can say that the 3S line has less downtime and less costly to maintain. After upgrading my Senton to all metal gears, GPM turnbuckles, RPM arms and HW motor/esc all I do now is charge the batteries and bash. My Kraton is sitting and waiting for backordered wing mount which I have damaged 2 times in 2 sessions. Broke them doing backflips (need more practice). Most common parts on the 6S are also backordered. Don't get me wrong, I love the way the 6S drives and jumps, things I can't do with my Senton but expect parts to break more due to the heavier rig.
So if you don't plan to do really big jumps, the 3S line will be sufficient to give you smiles. The 6S line will give the smiles but double the cost.
 
I got big rock an senton 1/10 both have 6s systems an mostly run off road on 4s and on 6s on road...stock drivetrains.only tear up rear diffs and very few axles.smaller tires that spin👍
Bigger tires that grip break $hit👎
 
I'd say your most reliable Arrma option for the price is any vehicle from the 3S line that you "prepare" prior to driving: Adjust the mesh, slipper tightness and servo endpoints, ensure there are threadlocker everywhere it is needed, maybe replace the spur with the metal upgrade, etc.

In my experience, all Arrmas are likely to have small issues out of the box. Going over the RC before driving it is the best way to avoid frustrations. Once these assembly issues are addressed, they can be very reliable.

Unless you are just driving around gently, the Arrma 6S RTR are much worst money pit than the 3S. A lot of the weak stock parts will fail rapidly when you crash (chassis braces, shock tower, wing mount, etc.). Upgrading is a big part of the fun for most of us here, but if you want a set-and-forget RC, you're probably better off with a higher quality kit like a Tekno MT410 on 4S (no personal experience with it, I'm just saying this based on what I hear about the Tekno stuff).
 
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If you’re on a budget, stick with a 3S. If you’re lacking mechanical skills, stick with a 3S.

If you have a decent sized budget and are handy with tools, get a 6S. My choice would be the Typhon 6S as it’s the most versatile IMO.
 
Thanks for your replies. You all make perfect sense. Both are going to need parts from time to time. Bigger truck, bigger parts. Bigger parts, bigger expense. I think I will go back to my original thoughts and look at the 3s line. I just need to make sure I do the checks and adjustments prior to taking it out the first time. I will look over in the 3s forum and see what upgraded parts I might need. The ones that are a common problem. Thanks again, I appreciate you guys sharing your knowledge with me.
 
Thanks for your replies. You all make perfect sense. Both are going to need parts from time to time. Bigger truck, bigger parts. Bigger parts, bigger expense. I think I will go back to my original thoughts and look at the 3s line. I just need to make sure I do the checks and adjustments prior to taking it out the first time. I will look over in the 3s forum and see what upgraded parts I might need. The ones that are a common problem. Thanks again, I appreciate you guys sharing your knowledge with me.
The 3s line was great for me, minus getting rocks stuck in the servo and steering linkage. I started putting a piece of tape over the hole in the bottom of the chassis. With the v5 6s cars coming out there will be better stock of them soon. There isn't a lot of aftermarket stuff yet for the parts that changed, and v4 parts will def be harder to find in time. Jennysrc, and just bash it break down rigs and sell the parts, and lumidave on ebay. I'd say the 3s stuff may be a solid bet now and if you want to step up to a 6s rig later on go for it, there will be lots of v5 parts flooding out as the newer models release. I stocked up on v4 parts and found myself not breaking nearly as much as i thought i would so i'm set on spares for a while hahahaha. I was navy 99-05 too (y)
 
Good choice. From your description of what you're looking for, the 3S line really is the way to go.

You're probably better of with the Big Rock. You could also add the rear wing and wing mount from the Outcast 4S to protect the rear of the body and you'll have a very durable truck.

You will find all the info you're looking for in the forum here. Just ask away if you're unsure of anything.
 
I think the real must to upgrade are the composite balls on the turnbuckles. They wear out so quickly turning them into cylinders which adds a lot of slop. I went to HR aluminum balls and it fixed the issue for a little bit but the balls wore out too. I am now using GPM turnbuckle set and looks good so far. Some may say it's only a basher you don't need them but I would rather have a rig that I can drive than one that's all over the place.
Left pic is the GPM, right is HR aluminum balls worn out

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I'd say your most reliable Arrma option for the price is any vehicle from the 3S line that you "prepare" prior to driving: Adjust the mesh, slipper tightness and servo endpoints, ensure there are threadlocker everywhere it is needed, maybe replace the spur with the metal upgrade, etc.

In my experience, all Arrmas are likely to have small issues out of the box. Going over the RC before driving it is the best way to avoid frustrations. Once these assembly issues are addressed, they can be very reliable.

Unless you are just driving around gently, the Arrma 6S RTR are much worst money pit than the 3S. A lot of the weak stock parts will fail rapidly when you crash (chassis braces, shock tower, wing mount, etc.). Upgrading is a big part of the fun for most of us here, but if you want a set-and-forget RC, you're probably better off with a higher quality kit like a Tekno MT410 on 4S (no personal experience with it, I'm just saying this based on what I hear about the Tekno stuff).
Alot of upgrades for the mt410 also. Here is a picture of the upgrades for my build.

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Tekno is kinda diving into the deep end for a relative noob, doncha think
Depends on whether they want to build there own rc and know everything about it. The point I was making is Teknos are not bulletproof.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I truly appreciate your sharing your knowledge and wisdom to this new RC fan. This is a very helpful Forum.
 
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