I keep snapping the driveshaft end locking pins on my Nero
- Thread starter HobbyTownArrma
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- drive train nero
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mansour545
Member
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- 21
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- Arrma RC's
- Fazon
The V02 is more rigged than the E02 and it's more length flexible than the E02 . Both of them are better than stock if you can't get V02 because of its cost get the E02 it's definitely worth it too. Both of them are repairable. The weak spots are the 2x15mm pins that are used in all coupling areas. So if something breaks, you can repair it by getting these pins which are pretty cheap (50 pieces for 5$).
338federal
Member
Traxxas pins are not holding for me. Front pin blow away. No hard jumps from snow to tarmac with 6s.
gtadustin
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- 7
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- Nero
- Talion
yeah I'll prob go the V02 then I just hate the locking pins breaking I get why they do that if something has to give let it be cheap & easy fix but everytime I lock a Diff there goes a pin. I've been tempted to tear apart the rear & front Diffs & drilling the holes so they can fit the Savage locking pins then I'll never have a broken pin issue
338federal
Member
I have centerdiff locked nothing else. But it is easy to change the pin. Throttle management is way to learn. But now i will drive on snow with slingshots tires.
Motorhead419
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I have
I have the HPI pins also...these will not break. A long drill bit and no disassembly needed.
Motorhead419
Member
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Put them in from the other end might have better threads.. It's plastic so barely tighten....do not glue
Also loosen your slipper an 1/8 turn
Stitch
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- BigRock
I noticed that the punch setting of the BLX200 ESC is not very good for air control or controlled driving in general. My BLX200 fried somehow so I put in a MAX8 and the improvement was huge. I guess if you turn down the punch on the BLX200 it would be similar. Less breakage more control... My 2 cents anyway
Haven't broken any pins but I had a rear drive shaft jam. It it was jammed up good. Took it all apart and tried tapping out the.... the part that goes into the hub. You know the side that meant to slide as the suspension works. No luck. Heated it up the red shaft a bit tap tap tap, nothing. A bit harder and the end of the shaft just kind of got crushed. Still didn't come apart.
Being that the complete replacement was pretty close dollar wise I just purchased some of those Hot Racing drive shafts.
Bought a bunch of extra little crap as well. 'cmon free shipping let's get a move on.
Being that the complete replacement was pretty close dollar wise I just purchased some of those Hot Racing drive shafts.
Bought a bunch of extra little crap as well. 'cmon free shipping let's get a move on.
Might be to late with anwser, but the reason is, slipper aint adjusted.
In blast mode, wont be a problem ( all unlocked)
The rest of the modes it is critical to hae the slipper adjusted, thats the reason it has a slipper.
Tblazin
Active Member
Hi guys
I received the pins I ordered days ago and let me tell you this.. they are almost 2mm shorter pins.. but they are so rigid and hardened and the thread is longer and slightly wider but you don't have to adjust or drill anything.. they just go in.. I bough 2 packs of them "8 pieces" just to try to break them on purpose by locking all diff locks "climb mode" and drive it on asphalt with high speed!! The pins are still on and working pretty great. I did wheelies for long distances easy.
I recommend them from Hot Racing PN SRVO415SP. Blue thread lock with medium tighting is enough for it.
Pictures here in comparison between stock on the left and the hot racing one the right.
Also received hot racing aluminum rockers much cheaper than GKA witch they cost 80$ for 4 corners but for the hot racing ones are much better looking and they are pretty hard too and they cost 57$ Free shipping for all 4 they come with screws and washers and small nuts to lock the screw in from the other side pics included.
Still waiting for the hot racing CVDs I bought both models the sliders ones and fixed ones to try it all. Waiting also for the new motor and T-bone Thrasher front bumper and new hot racing aluminum steering blocks and the aluminum erevo rocker posts. Will make new thread regarding all upgrades I did with costs and recommendations and reviews and PNs.
Today was my first full battery run with my Fazon. Although I bashed it hard and had 4 pretty hard wrong landings and 3 concrete direct collisions I was so upset for each and after these things.. but I have nothing broken at all. Since I bought Fazon 5 weeks ago this is the first run full batteries run and it was a perfect run. I only need to put some heavy shock oil for the front shocks to help with steering the car with high speed.
I got 17 and 20 pinion gears that I will try soon and with the SCR terrain crusher I should be fine I guess.
Sorry for writing alot in hereenjoy your arrmas guy
I know its been a while have those pins held up better than the traxxas pins?
The rear diff on my Nero has 1 arrma pin, and 1 traxxas pin. Last weekend I broke the traxxas one.
Tblazin
Active Member
WOW see im hearing the traxxas ones are way better, guess it how crazy you drive, im also sealing my diffs and running fluids....
Me too
I have a non-diff brain. I installed the diff servos and used it for about a month that way. I didn't like how it was all or nothing.
I pulled the front and rear servos, capped the cases, and filled with diff oil.
I've used it this way for about a year, but still don't like full lock or spinning fronts to oblivion. Guess I'm a diff oil guy.
Think I'll finally pull the center, fill with 200k, and rock out with the lock out
