I replaced, re-oiled(20000 silicone) and regreased my rear diff and I wonder how does this sound now?

bukshypro

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
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pre-story short: installed bigger tyres in my Vorteks blx, while still on 18T pinion gear, went full trottle in (sometimes wet) grass and rear diff gears ate each other. I changed the to new ones with 20000 silicone oil, Schumacher moly gear on the diff. Also installed 15T pinion. The cars tyres are slower, which I think is because of the heavy 20k oil and I wonder whether that puts and preseure on the motor itself? Also, I was expecting huge trottle, but I cant wheelie now, true that these are dirt/grass tyres so way less traction.

How does it sounds to you? Is this okay?

Thanks

 
Sounds good to me. You'll always have that slight metal gears sound.

Love that brick road and houses on that corner! Looks like a fairytale setting! 😁 ✌️ 🎅
 
Sounds good to me. You'll always have that slight metal gears sound.

Love that brick road and houses on that corner! Looks like a fairytale setting! 😁 ✌️ 🎅
ty!
Do you think I can't wheelie because the 20000 silicone oil is too thick? or its only because the tyres actually not have good enough traction here?
 
ty!
Do you think I can't wheelie because the 20000 silicone oil is too thick? or its only because the tyres actually not have good enough traction here?
I don't think the 20k would prevent wheelies. I don't own a Vortex though, but would think you should still be able to wheelie.

You could try a higher punch setting which would give you more "get up and go" at initial throttle.
 
oookay, lemme put these bad boys on and try raise punch settings too
Tyres
 

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oookay, lemme put these bad boys on and try raise punch settings too
Tyres
Also, what batt are you runnin' (2s/3s?) and have you filled the front diff and if so with what weight?
 
Also, what batt are you runnin' (2s/3s?) and have you filled the front diff and if so with what weight?
I run Zeee 7000-8000mah 3S 100C batteries and I always did (in this hobby for ~5-6 weeks now). Front diffs have same oil from factory (or lack of HAHA), so like 10k silicone oil. I will have to order different oil for them if I remember correctly from what I've read here and there
 
I run Zeee 7000-8000mah 3S 100C batteries and I always did (in this hobby for ~5-6 weeks now). Front diffs have same oil from factory (or lack of HAHA), so like 10k silicone oil. I will have to order different oil for them if I remember correctly from what I've read here and there
I use the same Zeees. (y)

Yes, def want to clean out what little oil is in that front diff, check the shims and all, and fill with 30k.

I run 30/20 with my Senton, and while it's not really meant to wheelie, I can make it if I want. 😁
 
I use the same Zeees. (y)

Yes, def want to clean out what little oil is in that front diff, check the shims and all, and fill with 30k.

I run 30/20 with my Senton, and while it's not really meant to wheelie, I can make it if I want. 😁
an interesting thing happened. Switched over the tarmac tyres, raised punch to 5 and car still didnt want to wheelie. went onto a walk and gave a few bursts and car suddenly started missing power. like when I ate down the diff gears. took it home, something smelled. took the motor apart but it looked good. apart from the slipper clutch started slipping crazy. I tightened it and going for another try. Gosh! Its really time now to get this sorted so I can play with it :D
 
an interesting thing happened. Switched over the tarmac tyres, raised punch to 5 and car still didnt want to wheelie. went onto a walk and gave a few bursts and car suddenly started missing power. like when I ate down the diff gears. took it home, something smelled. took the motor apart but it looked good. apart from the slipper clutch started slipping crazy. I tightened it and going for another try. Gosh! Its really time now to get this sorted so I can play with it :D
Yeah, most definitely tighten your slipper. Big wheel setups require it for sure. Listen closely and you can hear when the slipper clutch is slipping too much. You should only hear it for the first few feet under throttle.
 
Yeah, most definitely tighten your slipper. Big wheel setups require it for sure. Listen closely and you can hear when the slipper clutch is slipping too much. You should only hear it for the first few feet under throttle.
Hmmmm, so the clutch plates might be off. I tightened it, although not exgensively or very tight and it still slips. I can't consistently get the car to wheelie, which was not the case before. I guess I gotta take it apart and see or tighten it way more. Do I risk anything if I don't take it apart and just tighten it in case they re used up. Im only through like 15 7k batteries with it
 
Diff oil only affects how much differential rotation there is between the left and right tires. Going too light and you might possibly cause one tire to slip (and therefore not get enough grip for a wheelie). But overall, going thicker or just replacing won't have any affect on the ability to wheelie.

If i remember, amainhobbies did a review of the vorteks and found that it was harder to get wheelies compared to other RC's. Changing pinions and tires is likely what affected the wheelie ability. Either the tires you swapped too have lower grip or different mass, or the changing the pinion changed the top speed too much (either up or down) that affected how it wheelies.

Sounds like you're on the right track with the slipper clutch. I've used the tire skidding approach. Here's a link to the process explained by our very own @jondilly1974
 
Diff oil only affects how much differential rotation there is between the left and right tires. Going too light and you might possibly cause one tire to slip (and therefore not get enough grip for a wheelie). But overall, going thicker or just replacing won't have any affect on the ability to wheelie.

If i remember, amainhobbies did a review of the vorteks and found that it was harder to get wheelies compared to other RC's. Changing pinions and tires is likely what affected the wheelie ability. Either the tires you swapped too have lower grip or different mass, or the changing the pinion changed the top speed too much (either up or down) that affected how it wheelies.

Sounds like you're on the right track with the slipper clutch. I've used the tire skidding approach. Here's a link to the process explained by our very own @jondilly1974
thanks for this, found this video in other threads. I've tightened my slipper clutch but it just got loose again. I took it apart, turned around the clutch plates. put some thread lock on the hex and re-assembled the motor. will give it 12-16hours and give it a go. if it doesn't keep i'll replace the clutch pads etc.
Funny how in 15 packs I've managed to destroy my rear diff and bleed out my slipper clutch. I wonder how much its gonna cost me to keep playing with my car :D
what makes me extremely happy is that at this point I've took my car apart, except the front diff. I can change servo, change pinions, rear diff maintenance, slipper clutch.
btw, I've seen a vid about something in the rear diff/slipper clutch/motor might be dangerous to health, some kid of dust that's in there. is that true btw?
 
ty!
Do you think I can't wheelie because the 20000 silicone oil is too thick? or its only because the tyres actually not have good enough traction here?
No, its not the thicker rear diff oil causing what you see.... IMHO.
More like the Different tires, could be heavier and have a larger rollout? IDK what you have there. Better Gearing should help you dial it in better. Where you want it.
Thicker oil will make it more planted and slightly faster if anything. Less power bleed results with thicker diff oils. A good thing.
Different tires changes the feel of it most of the time.
 
No, its not the thicker rear diff oil causing what you see.... IMHO.
More like the Different tires, could be heavier and have a larger rollout? IDK what you have there. Better Gearing should help you dial it in better. Where you want it.
Thicker oil will make it more planted and slightly faster if anything. Less power bleed results with thicker diff oils. A good thing.
Different tires changes the feel of it most of the time.
So, compared to stock (18T pinion, smaller profile tyres) , I put quite big tyres on too, but it was still doing wheelies well on 18T. But then started doing grass and destroyed the rear diff. Changed pinion gear to 15T, just to check, but it was still broken. Changed out rear giff, filled out with 20k silicone, greased rear diff gears and tried again. But this time the power got caught up in the slipper clutch. I tightened it, but it straight got loose again. Couldnt wheelie on neither the louise rc tarmac tyres or louise rc mt cross . I took it apart now, turned the clutch plates, tightened it and we will see.

Tyres are not too different from the stock big rock or granite tyres, its just they come with 15T pinion by default. So now, if I managed to fix slipper clutch, it should be good, otherwise I gotta buy new clutch plates and it will be fixed. Cant think of anything else in the rear of the car.

The piece of metal that comes out of my motor moves a tiny bit. I remember a video where someone said thats a problem?
 
With the slipper pads, try "scuffing" them up a bit. When they get loose, they slip/overheat, then they tend to get "Glazed" up. Get too slippery. Much like brakes and clutches of a real car. Excess Dirt inside the Power Module, can cause this also.
Heavier and High bite tires will always tax the slipper clutch more.
 
With the slipper pads, try "scuffing" them up a bit. When they get loose, they slip/overheat, then they tend to "Glazed" up. Get too slippery. Much like brakes and clutches of a real car. Excess Dirt inside the Power Module, can cause this also.
For now I turned them so the new sides touch the metal for now. Lets see how it works
 
Reversing them may work sometimes.
 
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