Typhon Im losing faith guys....

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112Mike

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Arrma RC's
  1. Typhon 6s
New center diff...
Took out of package, its very tight, crunchy and at one point it locks up and gets stuck. Does everything from this company have to be completely torn down and rebuilt to work ?

Typhon 6s

20220623_132629.jpg
 
New center diff...
Took out of package, its very tight, crunchy and at one point it locks up and gets stuck. Does everything from this company have to be completely torn down and rebuilt to work ?

Typhon 6s

View attachment 225450
Just refill the diff oil
 
Might be a small piece of metal in there that is getting caught. Obviously that shouldnt happen brand new but you never know. And arrma gets a lot of stuff right. But yes some things are little off and thats why there is all sorts of advice and upgraded parts to fix those little issues. Makes a big difference when you understand all the little things and make it right
 
New center diff...
Took out of package, its very tight, crunchy and at one point it locks up and gets stuck. Does everything from this company have to be completely torn down and rebuilt to work ?

Typhon 6s

View attachment 225450
Yes, every Arrma diff "should" be disassembled. Nothing new. Never expect or assume a new packaged diff is well assembled. Most are just not. Is what it is. You are not alone. You noticed a problem. Good that you were observant to it at least. (y)
Get used to opening diffs before using them. Even if the diff action feels ok , rotates well enough, the Oil is usually Low. Check for missing shims. cross pins etc., incorrect factory assy. Sometimes there is even foreign metal debris in the oil which will ruin the diff's Sat. and Sun gears. Been there like others. Clean it all out first. Might as well have the correct Diff oils on hand. And fill them properly. There are many threads in regard here. Do a search here on AF. Videos also.
I run 60k f/300-500k center/30k rear with my Off Road Hard basher 6s rigs. (Non EXB LSD diffs)
Examine well before use, or risk an early Diff demise..
Doesn't matter if the 3 diffs are new out of the box on the rig, or a retail replacement, or even a JennysRC Take off diff. These are made in China at a very fast production rate. Poor QC results. HH/Arrma knows this, FWIW. They don't care and/or have any control over it.:rolleyes:
We all learn to deal with this.
 
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Might be a small piece of metal in there that is getting caught. Obviously that shouldnt happen brand new but you never know. And arrma gets a lot of stuff right. But yes some things are little off and thats why there is all sorts of advice and upgraded parts to fix those little issues. Makes a big difference when you understand all the little things and make it

Yes, every Arrma diff "should" be disassembled. Nothing new. Never expect or assume a new packaged diff is well assemebled. Most are just not. Is what it is. You are not alone.
Get used to opening diffs before using them. Oil is usually Low. Check for missing shims. cross pins etc., incorrect factory assy. Might as well have the correct Diff oils on hand. And fill them properly. There are many threads in regard here. Do a search here on AF. Videos also.
I run 60k f/300-500k center/30k rear with my Off Road Hard basher 6s rigs. (Non EXB LSD diffs)
Examine well before use, or risk an early Diff demise..
Dosen't matter if the diff is new out of the box on the rig, or a retail replacement, or even a JennysRC Take off diff. These are made in China. Poor QC.
We all learn to deal with this.
I'm understanding this. My brand new Typhon has 20 minutes of run time, literally installed 2nd battery and had a catastrophic failure, including smoke and a barrel roll. Lmao.
 
Sadly SrC is right, with my Traxxas and Redcat rc's I don't bother to pre-check the diffs. Most of my Arrma's I try to check before hand. So far, every center diff (and most front/rear's) have had little to no oil in them.. My 8S front tires balooned like crazy, a friends new rtr O8S did the same out of the box.
 
I must be lucky because I'm at I think 14 arrma rigs now and I don't think I've ever checked diffs before running one. I've never had anything bad happen. I do end up putting 500k in the center eventually though. :ROFLMAO: I'm over here playing russian roulette apparently. :eek:
 
I must be lucky because I'm at I think 14 arrma rigs now and I don't think I've ever checked diffs before running one. I've never had anything bad happen. I do end up putting 500k in the center eventually though. :ROFLMAO: I'm over here playing russian roulette apparently. :eek:
Hummm...........
Are they shelf queens or something???????
Do you even run them???:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
Maybe having so many of them, they are rarely driven at all???:giggle:

Murphy's Law:
"if it is a new untouched, out the box Arrma Diff, it will self destruct much sooner than later":LOL: Sometimes within that very first lipo pack run. Been there with my very first 6s OC, years back. I learned the hard way also.
With any new Arrma rig, I usually spend a week+ RE-building it before I even think of running it.
And diffs are expensive to replace.
I love my Tekno MT410 diffs by comparison. Never rebuilt once yet in 5+ years. Probably due for an oil change at the very least, however.
 
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I must be lucky because I'm at I think 14 arrma rigs now and I don't think I've ever checked diffs before running one. I've never had anything bad happen. I do end up putting 500k in the center eventually though. :ROFLMAO: I'm over here playing russian roulette apparently. :eek:

I would guess you drive in a way that doesn't lead to excessive diff unloading, so even if they're under-filled you're not stressing them much.
 
don't Loose FAITH brother.

This is how it is today.
WITH ALL BRANDS.
ALL RTR

I have seen alot Traxxas diffs only halffilled. Couple BONE DRY also.

There is very few RTR that is well done.
Some Expensive Mugen, Xray, Some Serpents.
This is only because they have strict Q-C and mostly made in EUROPE , EU have moral, and high education.
Asians is different story.

Anyways, yes always take a part new diffs, and fill with thicker better oil.
ALWAYS if you want be 100% secure, and also have better handling, more fun driving.
Put in 300k in that center diff , stock is only 100-200k, make shure the new oil level is above the gears precisly

There is alot videos, please watch video before you do this.
You have metal diff, you need heat the screws before you remove them.
They have Locktite.
You must self have new locktite BLUE IS FINE,.

let it sit 24h before you drive first time, the lock tite must dry perfekt

BONUS TIP:
If you don't like wait parts arrive and so on..
Make shure buy extra diff oil, extra diff gears, extra spurgear, always great to have.
Or buy one complete new extra diff from Jennys, one center
and one for front or rear also. they are same, front and rear. one extra is enough.

6s , these are EXTREME , they run like mental.
Parts breaks sometimes sadly.

Remember change diff oil every 20packs runtime 5000mah
if you run 6-7000mah packs you need change oils every 15-17th run

the gears every 40 packs is great time change them.
Atleast center and rear diff.
Front can if you are lucky run 60packs, this is maximum

IF you want this hobby BULLETPROOF run your 6s rig with 4s only and 20t pinion. It will be ok, decent acceleration., decent speed anyways.
6s is MENTAL and risky offcourse.

AND please, if you run 6s, bash ? have a 17-18t pinion max ,, middle thing between speedrun and stock pinion is ok bash with higspeed fans.
buy better fans to motor, high speed, give them 7.4v

6s is always risky



dual fans is safest if you bash summertime hot areas
fgd.jpg


i also highly recommed this dusty cover
they make one that is made fit typhon specially
this covers stones hit in centerdiff to avoid accidents
and it covers coolingfans blades also in esc and motor.
and yeas it breathes and let air get in and out, don't worry

only positive things have one

saves alot components and centerdiffs, bearings and so on
must have if you ask me
dustymotorsblack-ns.jpg
 
Last edited:
don't Loose FAITH brother.

This is how it is today.
WITH ALL BRANDS.
ALL RTR

I have seen alot Traxxas diffs only halffilled. Couple BONE DRY also.

There is very few RTR that is well done.
Some Expensive Mugen, Xray, Some Serpents.
This is only because they have strict Q-C and mostly made in EUROPE , EU have moral, and high education.
Asians is different story.

Anyways, yes always take a part new diffs, and fill with thicker better oil.
ALWAYS if you want be 100% secure, and also have better handling, more fun driving.
Put in 300k in that center diff , stock is only 100-200k, make shure the new oil level is above the gears precisly

There is alot videos, please watch video before you do this.
You have metal diff, you need heat the screws before you remove them.
They have Locktite.
You must self have new locktite BLUE IS FINE,.

let it sit 24h before you drive first time, the lock tite must dry perfekt

BONUS TIP:
If you don't like wait parts arrive and so on..
Make shure buy extra diff oil, extra diff gears, extra spurgear, always great to have.
Or buy one complete new extra diff from Jennys, one center
and one for front or rear also. they are same, front and rear. one extra is enough.

6s , these are EXTREME , they run like mental.
Parts breaks sometimes sadly.

Remember change diff oil every 20packs runtime 5000mah
if you run 6-7000mah packs you need change oils every 15-17th run

the gears every 40 packs is great time change them.
Atleast center and rear diff.
Front can if you are lucky run 60packs, this is maximum

IF you want this hobby BULLETPROOF run your 6s rig with 4s only and 20t pinion. It will be ok, decent acceleration., decent speed anyways.
6s is MENTAL and risky offcourse.

AND please, if you run 6s, bash ? have a 17-18t pinion max ,, middle thing between speedrun and stock pinion is ok bash with higspeed fans.
buy better fans to motor, high speed, give them 7.4v

6s is always risky



dual fans is safest if you bash summertime hot areas
View attachment 225474

i also highly recommed this dusty cover
they make one that is made fit typhon specially
this covers stones hit in centerdiff to avoid accidents
and it covers coolingfans blades also in esc and motor.
and yeas it breathes and let air get in and out, don't worry

only positive things have one

saves alot components and centerdiffs, bearings and so on
must have if you ask me
View attachment 225475
Awesome advice, thanks.
I have a (2nd) brand new Typhon. I am doing a full teardown before flight. I ordered a handful of updated parts, and yes, I have the dust cover.
I appreciate the advice, you guys are a wealth of knowledge.
 
Could be the screws connecting the crown gear to the housing were put in too tight. I’ve done that before when refilling mine.
I will keep that in mind and try loosening them first. Before it locked up, it felt crunchy, like the gears were too tight. Your probably on to something.
 
Could be the screws connecting the crown gear to the housing were put in too tight. I’ve done that before when refilling mine.
done that :rolleyes: and over-tightening the pillow-balls will make the servo not work well.
Ive learned to not over-tighten anything! Use locktight (I use an Anaerobic Threadlocker, 125 blue gel) instead. Just a little will do.
 
Could be the screws connecting the crown gear to the housing were put in too tight. I’ve done that before when refilling mine.
I struggled with this too. I was terrified thinking the screws weren't tight enough because I had to back off so much for it to feel smooth.
 
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