In the process of going 4s on my BIG PAPA LONG ROCK project.need some advice/ helpšŸ˜šŸ‘

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King blitz

Don't just modify . customize .
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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Kraton 6s
  3. Outcast 6s
  4. Vendetta
  5. Infraction 4x4
Do I need to change my diffs to accommodate the 4s system or will the stock v3 diffs be ok? And also what about the bearings ? Would I need to change all of them ? Is there bearings made for 4s ? Thank you any help would be appreciated.id like to get these ordered to day if possible
 
BB's are BB's. Across all platforms. The same. Just make sure they are rubber sealed, clean, well lubed and not worn out.
Upgrading to 4s diffs is your call. Run what you got, evaluate, and go from there.
 
BB's are BB's. Across all platforms. The same. Just make sure they are rubber sealed, clean, well lubed and not worn out.
Upgrading to 4s diffs is your call. Run what you got, evaluate, and go from there.
Trust me when I say my bearings are mad clean and rolling smooth like butter.my OCD makes me check all of them after I do runs .and since I only do street passes I don't worry to much about the bearings being full of gunk.i just thought that there were bearings made for 4s .that's why I was asking.and I read somewhere that the 3s BLX big rock diffs could Handel 4s abuse .again I specifically only do moderate speed passes and play around in the street doing 360s or sliding around.street bashing I suppose that's called? Nothing crazy.lets say I want all metal diffs .which ones are compatible ? This is what I'd like to know and possibly buy to keep on hand when my plastic ones go.and as for gearing the castle motor came with a 18 tooth pinnion .I plan on using it and I'd like to get a steel spur . thinking of sticking with the stock 57 tooth but if you guys give me a better choice plz let me know so I can buy this stuff soon.im just trying to get everything I need to go 4 s so I can start putting it together
I'm still using stock bearings that it came with.i don't know if they are rubber sealed .do you happen to know? And if I want to get bran new bearings which kind would be a perfect fit
 
Look at your BB's. You should clearly see if they are rubber sealed or not. That is basic RC knowledge. :rolleyes:
Whether Sealed or just Shielded, does not matter. As long as they work... Just when replacing them, always get rubber sealed. They last longer. But still need maintenance if you care to do so.
 
Look at your BB's. You should clearly see if they are rubber sealed or not. That is basic RC knowledge. :rolleyes:
Whether Sealed or just Shielded, does not matter. As long as they work... Just when replacing them, always get rubber sealed.
Thanks .but the last a did a pass was 3 months ago and I haven't looked at the bearings since then so I lost that part of basic knowledge šŸ¤£šŸ¤£.I'll have to check but I don't think they are .i believe they are metal shielded.ill order some anyways .any brand you recommend.the emoji with the googly eyes looking up was funny.šŸ¤£šŸ¤£
 
Thanks .but the last a did a pass was 3 months ago and I haven't looked at the bearings since then so I lost that part of basic knowledge šŸ¤£šŸ¤£.I'll have to check but I don't think they are .i believe they are metal shielded.ill order some anyways .any brand you recommend.the emoji with the googly eyes looking up was funny.šŸ¤£šŸ¤£
My experience with the BR is only at 3S but it is built as a 4S (CVDs, rear Arrma metal diff & metal input gear, etc) the bearing between the power module and the rear diff is the PITA one that gets dirty quick and can lock. Just a bad design no matter how good the bearing dirt get in there even tho I cut the hole in the chassis the let it escape.

Last as normal are the wheels the inner/outer bearings. Those I check after 2-3 runs with the above the other bearings are golden until I change them down the road!

Bash on (y)
 
My experience with the BR is only at 3S but it is built as a 4S (CVDs, rear Arrma metal diff & metal input gear, etc) the bearing between the power module and the rear diff is the PITA one that gets dirty quick and can lock. Just a bad design no matter how good the bearing dirt get in there even tho I cut the hole in the chassis the let it escape.

Last as normal are the wheels the inner/outer bearings. Those I check after 2-3 runs with the above the other bearings are golden until I change them down the road!

Bash on (y)
Thank you.so I'll run my stock diffs untill I notice a change .I might have to get some diff fluid .not sure what's best for speed passes.i haven't opened up the diff case yet but many say from stock they don't come filled.i have taken the yolk apart and cleaned it up and added some grease but that's how far I've gone so far. I do pull the pinnion away from the spur and check all wheels for smooth spinning and it's all perfect .drive train is all good ..so in the future if I wanted all metal diffs what model could I get them from.?
 
Thank you.so I'll run my stock diffs untill I notice a change .I might have to get some diff fluid .not sure what's best for speed passes.i haven't opened up the diff case yet but many say from stock they don't come filled.i have taken the yolk apart and cleaned it up and added some grease but that's how far I've gone so far. I do pull the pinnion away from the spur and check all wheels for smooth spinning and it's all perfect .drive train is all good ..so in the future if I wanted all metal diffs what model could I get them from.?

I personal option if you go the metal route, I see two options.

#1 HR Yoke is a good option
What I learned from vets and my experience with the plastic yoke around the diff FLEX. Over time and this stress can lead to gear stripping due to the yoke flexing. Some have had great success with the stock diffs with this yoke. I've only had to put one on the rear. The front is fine with the stock.

When I began to play with belted tires and more stress and power (4S) I went to the Arrma 3S metal diff. Now with this setup, you do not need the HR metal yoke, but if you had one as I did, I just added it. This is a solid setup with all metal as well as input. Again only needed it on the front. This setup, I later added a 4S slipper

I have since returned to 3S, so I made a full circle to end at #1. I would recommend shimming. In one of my stock setups, I had to move the shim over to the ring gear side of the diff and later needed two on that same side of a good mesh. Please shim it as you see fit
 
I personal option if you go the metal route, I see two options.

#1 HR Yoke is a good option
What I learned from vets and my experience with the plastic yoke around the diff FLEX. Over time and this stress can lead to gear stripping due to the yoke flexing. Some have had great success with the stock diffs with this yoke. I've only had to put one on the rear. The front is fine with the stock.

When I began to play with belted tires and more stress and power (4S) I went to the Arrma 3S metal diff. Now with this setup, you do not need the HR metal yoke, but if you had one as I did, I just added it. This is a solid setup with all metal as well as input. Again only needed it on the front. This setup, I later added a 4S slipper

I have since returned to 3S, so I made a full circle to end at #1. I would recommend shimming. In one of my stock setups, I had to move the shim over to the ring gear side of the diff and later needed two on that same side of a good mesh. Please shim it as you see fit
do you happen to have a link to that set up? I want to get this on order so I get this 4s system in it soon.thank youšŸ‘
 
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do you happen to have a link to that set up? I want to get this on order so I get this 4s system in it soon.thank youšŸ‘

Here is a video for instructions and visuals only on the 4s slipper install here. You will need all the parts to build it Or, just buy the 4S slipper here.

Example of a HR yoke install here
 
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