Kraton Input gear shim what size?

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Surchaufeur

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So i installed my hot racing diff case. who was a pain in the butt because tolerances. I noticed a lot of up and down play on the input gear even if i push to the max the output cup i tested with the stock housing theres no play at all. Whats exactly the size of shims i need to take the slop out? Depends where i put the shim on the back or in the front of the input shaft
 
So i installed my hot racing diff case. who was a pain in the butt because tolerances. I noticed a lot of up and down play on the input gear even if i push to the max the output cup i tested with the stock housing theres no play at all. Whats exactly the size of shims i need to take the slop out? Depends where i put the shim on the back or in the front of the input shaft
Shouldn’t the cup take care of the slop? Push the cup all the way on before tightening the set screw. ??‍♂️
 
With diff assembly removed, pinch the pinion gear and input coupling between your thumb and forefinger, apply threadlock to screw and tighten using quality 2.5mm wrench.

Don’t pinch too hard or bearings will fail prematurely.
 
Make sure that the cover plate is installed correctly. I do not have the full diff housing and cover, just the cover and it's very difficult to install and a very tight fit. Not due to tolerances, aluminum simply doesn't give. There is no play in the bearings once it's installed.

Not easy to take a picture of the tight spot, it's the edge of the bearing support (towards the diff case) that needs to slide exactly into place, any gap and it's an issue. Highly suggest to dry fit them outside to get a feel for the proper fit. Worth taking the time, it's a PITA to figure it out once they are installed. Once you understand that issue it's fairly easy.
 
With diff assembly removed, pinch the pinion gear and input coupling between your thumb and forefinger, apply threadlock to screw and tighten using quality 2.5mm wrench.

Don’t pinch too hard or bearings will fail prematurely.
I pintch both side best i can still i have the slop its just too long
Make sure that the cover plate is installed correctly. I do not have the full diff housing and cover, just the cover and it's very difficult to install and a very tight fit. Not due to tolerances, aluminum simply doesn't give. There is no play in the bearings once it's installed.

Not easy to take a picture of the tight spot, it's the edge of the bearing support (towards the diff case) that needs to slide exactly into place, any gap and it's an issue. Highly suggest to dry fit them outside to get a feel for the proper fit. Worth taking the time, it's a PITA to figure it out once they are installed. Once you understand that issue it's fairly easy.
I dry fit them. Its so complicated i need to take everything part and compair both gear boxes and dry fit them to see what i need to do
F hot racing
Well f i dry fitted my rear diff with only the gasket and diff case bolted togeuter menaged to slide only 2 0.1shims and i still have a gearmesh kinda trash that diff case hope i can fix that somehow. I feel like the treads are going to strip for some reason. If i try another 0.1 it just wont fit and bends
 
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I just installed the newly built LSD diff and found the input had a mm of play with the diff in and everything buttoned up. All I had to do was loosen the set screw in the input cup and then squeeze it with the back of the diff housing and it slid in place. Tightened the screw and no more slop.
 
I just installed the newly built LSD diff and found the input had a mm of play with the diff in and everything buttoned up. All I had to do was loosen the set screw in the input cup and then squeeze it with the back of the diff housing and it slid in place. Tightened the screw and no more slop.

Yes, but you’re running the factory plastic diff cases. He’s running HR units and we all know how questionable their parts can be. I predict he’ll be going back to plastic very soon ?
 
I just installed the newly built LSD diff and found the input had a mm of play with the diff in and everything buttoned up. All I had to do was loosen the set screw in the input cup and then squeeze it with the back of the diff housing and it slid in place. Tightened the screw and no more slop.
Thats what i do but i reach the end of the flat spot how the cup is designed it doesn't allow it to slide more on the input shaft
Yes, but you’re running the factory plastic diff cases. He’s running HR units and we all know how questionable their parts can be. I predict he’ll be going back to plastic very soon ?
Well F
I wanted to not deal with broken diff cases stripping gear but i guess the hr case just sucks hope i can deal with the mesh issue if i cant well i will resell it for cheap
 
Yes, but you’re running the factory plastic diff cases. He’s running HR units and we all know how questionable their parts can be. I predict he’ll be going back to plastic very soon ?
Ahhh I missed that part ✌?
 
Thats what i do but i reach the end of the flat spot how the cup is designed it doesn't allow it to slide more on the input shaft

Well F
I wanted to not deal with broken diff cases stripping gear but i guess the hr case just sucks hope i can deal with the mesh issue if i cant well i will resell it for cheap
Try these they work for me. Do what dilly and them said but toss one of these shims behind the input gear before you push it through the bearing. 1 shim will do. I have the HR dif case too and it worked for me.?‍♂️ https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Kyosho-8x12...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
 
Ahhh I missed that part ✌?
Well... that didn’t take long at all. Should have started a betting pool ?
I tried to shim the diff on the stock bulkhead and its worst than the hot racing case cant get the diff tight enough still have play in the inpt shaft. I think its my diff who is fked up the hot racing shims a lot better both diffs once accepts 0.3mm of shims
 
I'm having good luck with these 0.25mm shims. Only downside is that they do not fit over the cup. You have to disassemble the diff as a result.
If you ever tried to insert 2 or more shims you will love them. I always use 1 and if needed add a standard shim that will slide over the cup.
If it's over-shimmed I just cut it out, they are cheap enough.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036R4RGW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My diffs doesn't accept more than 0.3mm
And its still not tight enough. Worst in the stock diff case i have a bit side to side play on the input gear on the bearings i shimed the sun gear behind the small bearing shiming the top of the gear made it rub on the diff case
 
I have one that needed 0.35 but the gears are worn.
In that case you would only need 1, which is thicker and much easier to handle. I always ended up smahing 1 or 2 of the standard ones.
 
I have one that needed 0.35 but the gears are worn.
In that case you would only need 1, which is thicker and much easier to handle. I always ended up smahing 1 or 2 of the standard ones.
Yes but atill at 0.3mm the bulkhead barely allows it trying adding another 0.1 it wont sit and the shims just get all bended. Idk whats wrong with my gearbox
Might make a video of my concerns
 
I would take a guess that your HR diff case is defective. This is for your EXB, right?
 
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