Kraton Input gear shim what size?

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I would take a guess that your HR diff case is defective. This is for your EXB, right?
Yeah but same goes for the stock one cant shim it tight to my liking
I have put a tefflon shim behind the small bearing so it took the slop away but i need a metal one i guess for safety thats the only shims they had with 5mm diametter at that time
 
Yeah but same goes for the stock one cant shim it tight to my liking
I have put a tefflon shim behind the small bearing so it took the slop away but i need a metal one i guess for safety thats the only shims they had with 5mm diametter at that time
Are you still using stock bearings? How do they look?
 
The Kraton EXB is a LEMON! Why did you buy it? You were warned!!!!!! Sell while you can. I can give you $200 hard cash. That's like $1000 Canadian!
Yup I've been waiting for more posts like this. Everyone preordered and didn't wait to see what issues others are having before buying.
 
Can you see a difference in width between the HR and EXB bearings?
Nope
Yup I've been waiting for more posts like this. Everyone preordered and didn't wait to see what issues others are having before buying.
I didnt pre order it lol and the diff case is the same in the v4. I bought the exb for a simple reason it is just more durable than the v4 rtr. Upgrading the rtr to the exb level with m2c or arrma exb parts you are over 1000$+. Never wanted to buy the v4 kraton because of the crap chassi,braces and other cheap weak parts that need to be trown away day 1. Exb was the same price as the v4 or barely more expensive here in canada with jennyrc electronics people might think im an idiot but i have a brain . I might over look things sure and i share them i should keep my mouth shut and keep useful information for myself i find any why is it bad to share my experience when others does too
 
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@Surchaufeur

Why are you getting so bent out of shape for?

1) I fail to understand why you took apart the front EXB diff to begin with when I haven’t heard of any reported claims that it needed any TLC. Not one.

2) You bought a HR case and now having issues with that too. You mentioned that you may have stripped threads without applying too much pressure. How does one do that? You claim that Arrma has quality issues, but can you honestly say that you have enough differential-building experience to make such a statement?

3) Teflon washers have no business being inside a differential. All thrust surfaces must be metal/stainless steel.
 
@Surchaufeur

Why are you getting so bent out of shape for?

1) I fail to understand why you took apart the front EXB diff to begin with when I haven’t heard of any reported claims that it needed any TLC. Not one.

2) You bought a HR case and now having issues with that too. You mentioned that you may have stripped threads without applying too much pressure. How does one do that? You claim that Arrma has quality issues, but can you honestly say that you have enough differential-building experience to make such a statement?

3) Teflon washers have no business being inside a differential. All thrust surfaces must be metal/stainless steel.
I've stopped following this post because clearly he's doing something wrong but keeps blaming the products.
 
@Surchaufeur

Why are you getting so bent out of shape for?

1) I fail to understand why you took apart the front EXB diff to begin with when I haven’t heard of any reported claims that it needed any TLC. Not one.

2) You bought a HR case and now having issues with that too. You mentioned that you may have stripped threads without applying too much pressure. How does one do that? You claim that Arrma has quality issues, but can you honestly say that you have enough differential-building experience to make such a statement?

3) Teflon washers have no business being inside a differential. All thrust surfaces must be metal/stainless steel.
1) diff was almost dry rule number one check your diff shocks and screws before first run. Cmon


2)its the arrma diff case who stripped one mounting hole. I only said im scared to strip the thread in a crash on the hot racing case

3) i will give you that lol just installed it for now to mesh the diff without the slop
I've stopped following this post because clearly he's doing something wrong but keeps blaming the products.
Then why you are here lol tell me what im doing wrong lmao? im saying what my eyes see
I might look mad but i am not lmao not the first one to say that
 
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I know this rule very well. I also know the unwritten rule that one shouldn’t touch what they don’t understand. Apparently, not every one does though.
 
1) diff was almost dry rule number one check your diff shocks and screws before first run. Cmon


2)its the arrma diff case who stripped one mounting hole. I only said im scared to strip the thread in a crash on the hot racing case

3) i will give you that lol just installed it for now to mesh the diff without the slop

Then why you are here lol tell me what im doing wrong lmao? im saying what my eyes see
I might look mad but i am not lmao not the first one to say that
I tried to help you. Now when you say " diff case" do you mean the gear box or the the dif case. They are two different things. You said you are having issues with your input gear and its sloppiness, now the input gear is in the gearbox not the dif case. For the hot racing gearbox you want one shime behind the input gear and then un-thread the grub screw completely from the drive cup, put the drive cup on the input shaft and pinch the input gear and the drive cup tight and thread in the grub screw making sure its on the flat spot on the input shaft also use a small dab of blue(medium) thread lock. Crank that female dog tight as can be. I have the hot racing gearbox and have no issues after doing what I said.Now if you are having issues with slop on both stock and HR gearboxes then I'm sorry but you are doing something wrong or your drive cup or input gear is pooched. Also make sure you press those bearings in completely flush if not they will move under load and introduce slop in the input gear/drive cup. Now if you are talking about the dif case thats the piece where all your little gears go and that's a totally different part.
 
I tried to help you. Now when you say " diff case" do you mean the gear box or the the dif case. They are two different things. You said you are having issues with your input gear and its sloppiness, now the input gear is in the gearbox not the dif case. For the hot racing gearbox you want one shime behind the input gear and then un-thread the grub screw completely from the drive cup, put the drive cup on the input shaft and pinch the input gear and the drive cup tight and thread in the grub screw making sure its on the flat spot on the input shaft also use a small dab of blue(medium) thread lock. Crank that female dog tight as can be. I have the hot racing gearbox and have no issues after doing what I said.Now if you are having issues with slop on both stock and HR gearboxes then I'm sorry but you are doing something wrong or your drive cup or input gear is pooched. Also make sure you press those bearings in completely flush if not they will move under load and introduce slop in the input gear/drive cup. Now if you are talking about the dif case thats the piece where all your little gears go and that's a totally different part.
Its an hot racing gearbox. I already did what everyone told me to do the outdrive diff cup doesn't allow to slide further inside the input shaft of the gear and i need to put shims. I got it all good just cant get the mesh tight to my liking same goes for the stock gearbox.
I know this rule very well. I also know the unwritten rule that one shouldn’t touch what they don’t understand. Apparently, not every one does though.
So you are saying i don't know a thing on rc? You told me why i opened the front diff simple answer to check the fluid level and fill it up. Im sorry if i cant explain what i want to say correctly i cannot fix it i was born with that health condition if you noticed i keep modifying my replies to add more information because i cannot express myself correctly i was once told i might have dyslexia but i don't think its the case i don't fix in the general description of dyslexia
 
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Its an hot racing gearbox. I already did what everyone told me to do the outdrive diff cup doesn't allow to slide further inside the input shaft of the gear and i need to put shims. I got it all good just cant get the mesh tight to my liking same goes for the stock gearbox.
Then I'm sorry but your liking is wrong. With shims you should have no slop, infact even without shims you should have no slop. The cup should fit in the shaft easily and go all the way till it hits the bearing. If not then your shaft or cup is borked or you just think it's too loose when it's not.
 
Now that i see how much i badly wrire on this forum and irl maybe i have some kind of disorder always aumed it was my own mistakes
Then I'm sorry but your liking is wrong. With shims you should have no slop, infact even without shims you should have no slop. The cup should fit in the shaft easily and go all the way till it hits the bearing. If not then your shaft or cup is borked or you just think it's too loose when it's not.
Im going to make a video i cant describe it its beyong my ability only a video can show you want i want to ssy
 
I know this is an old thread but I was watching a video of a guy putting 13mm x19mm .2mm (x2) shims between the bearing of the pinion gear and housing so the pinion stuck out to make full contact with gears on crown gear. I'v got almost a milometer of of play where they are not coming in contact fully with each other. Would anyone know where to find these shims? I cant find them anywhere. It seems people put the kyosho shims between the pinion gear and bearing creating wear and issues. Behind the bearing and housing is a way better idea.
 
I know this is an old thread but I was watching a video of a guy putting 13mm x19mm .2mm (x2) shims between the bearing of the pinion gear and housing so the pinion stuck out to make full contact with gears on crown gear. I'v got almost a milometer of of play where they are not coming in contact fully with each other. Would anyone know where to find these shims? I cant find them anywhere. It seems people put the kyosho shims between the pinion gear and bearing creating wear and issues. Behind the bearing and housing is a way better idea.
I used shims behind the output shaft of the input gear
Outside the diff housing
 
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