Kraton Input gear shim what size?

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I believe i got them from kyosho. They are 6mm in diameter The part number i don't know specificly i have to find the bag
Great thanks, found em, but they are 8x10mm. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091YKN3D6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Someone mentioned putting them right behind the pinion gear and bearing resulted in the shims getting chewed up. Could anyone verify this? It seems if that were the case the pinion gear would destroy the seal for the bearing, its locked in place with two bearings after all.
 
Great thanks, found em. Someone mentioned putting them right behind the pinion gear and bearing resulted in the shims getting chewed up. Could anyone verify this? It seems if that were the case the pinion gear would destroy the seal for the bearing, its locked in place with two bearings after all.
I thinks its the friction between the bearing inner race and the back of the Pinion that would chew it up
 
Oh that makes sense, I did think it odd the pinion sits directly on the race but its for a reason. So it would be a bad idea to use these 8x10 shims then?
So I did find the 19x13mm shims but they are only .1m thick so Id have to use like 4 of them maybe.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1752408846...8WsliaVCyUsoH4sGwnxa9WeRA=|tkp:Bk9SR7zlh_m0YQ
Arrma makes some shims for the diffs they are 0.2mm thick. They some with the exb and rtr in a seperate bag now
I believe its these https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/washer-13x16x0.2mm-4/ARA709031.html
 
Oh that makes sense, I did think it odd the pinion sits directly on the race but its for a reason. So it would be a bad idea to use these 8x10 shims then?
So I did find the 19x13mm shims but they are only .1m thick so Id have to use like 4 of them maybe.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/175240884660?hash=item28cd2bb1b4:m:mJFdpjYyDo2Z-8l2UyNhmvw&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAAoI+vvwr7BQq0whGbtjNX2lDekzHi2dU2g5Ht/8sPmUGlWbw2Jkx+hIsDOUYkokngAiw+2apAr3PK90eDgAJ2AZpUtapGLQat2uWw3+/1wLX1civAryiXWsp+Hx/3ck+z4DTXJqMdi2iVF2yvisT9OlukTuYGC19dmJhcJU8LCHJG3UJkDa/UcTxubHMIYJ8WsliaVCyUsoH4sGwnxa9WeRA=|tkp:Bk9SR7zlh_m0YQ
.4mm is thicker than you think. Trial and error , adding one at a time, then remove that one shim when it's just TOO snug.
Need some tick of play, or the BB's won't last. Gears can even grind up. :cool:
Good luck.
 
.4mm is thicker than you think. Trial and error , adding one at a time, then remove that one shim when it's just TOO snug.
Need some tick of play, or the BB's won't last. Gears can even grind up. :cool:
Good luck.
Right on thanks. I just want the crown gear to have full contact with the pinion so it can take all the load. I read some people pinch the input cup while holding the pinion but that drives it back the wrong way and with mine your 1mm at least off the crown gear. Plus I have to convert this diff to open and am thinking of just using 3 active diff circular plates instead of the shim kit. Feels kinda backward converting a lsd to open.
 
Yes Input gear shims are also common. I just feel that it's optional. I find if the Main gear is shimmed just right, the diffs are just fine for bashing. Always need to shim the Main gear, first if anything. The tolerances with these stocker plastic molded Bulkheads vary too much. The main and Input gears don't mesh with much precision anyway. Is what it is. Most of my 9 6s rigs end up using 2-3 shims after the diffs are broken in. I like diff mesh on the tighter side when they are new. Just not tight. The gears should not growl when you rotate the diff. It is just a feel that you develope by doing many tmes. I've probably built and rebuilt about 60+ diffs in the past 7 years. Thats a lot of diff oil.;)
 
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Well I kinda did a bone head move. When I took out the input pinion gear I didnt notice I took out a shim right behind it and the bearing, ARA709064. Its not my fault in a way as when I looked at the manual its actually not listed as a part thats in there. Also people say putting a shim between the pinion gear and bearing results in the shim getting chewed up. So with the 12x8x .2 mm shim in the crown and pinion gear mesh pretty good. I thought it odd the pinion sat up right against the bearing seal too.

Im glad you told me about them adding shims when you broke them in. You have 9 Kraton 6s's, my god. I liked tearing apart the center diff, its cleverly made and even had a shim added from factory.
Im rebuilding the rear diff now with 6 total circular active diff plates (three on each side). I figured they would be the right thickness, I liked the rounded edge, and the holes will provide a little resistance to give me a tiny but of lsd action. I hope this is right, I could have just bought the 12 shim kit.

Thanks for the info.
 
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