Granite Input gear shot

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HZRDOS

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 4s
  2. Outcast 4s
  3. Outcast EXB
  4. Talion EXB
So need a new input gear. Diff and main gear look perfect. Is it a bad idea to just replace the input only?
Fyi...like 4 teeth on input are shaved
 
So need a new input gear. Diff and main gear look perfect. Is it a bad idea to just replace the input only?
Fyi...like 4 teeth on input are shaved
It should be fine if you just replace the input gear. I would buy a set of two with bearings from Jenny's RC. Best deal you can get. They are sold out right now though. Check the senton, bigrock, and typhon input gears too. They are the same.

Input Gears
 
It should be fine if you just replace the input gear. I would buy a set of two with bearings from Jenny's RC. Best deal you can get. They are sold out right now though. Check the senton, bigrock, and typhon input gears too. They are the same.

Input Gears
On another note you could.upgrade to metal input Nd crown gears but you'd also have to get the composite diff case to make them work but your input gear will last way longer being metal .
 
So need a new input gear. Diff and main gear look perfect. Is it a bad idea to just replace the input only?
Fyi...like 4 teeth on input are shaved
As long as no teeth on the ring gear are chewed up your fine to just replace the input. I'd check eBay as sometimes you'll find them almost as cheap as JennysRC 👍
 
Damn everything is out of stock. Sucks. Can't find the metal setup, or just regular input gear. Was able to find a full setup with diff, yoke and input on ebay from a kit breaker. Oh well, replacing with a stock one for now, but at least will have full spare diff and yoke.
 
Damn everything is out of stock. Sucks. Can't find the metal setup, or just regular input gear. Was able to find a full setup with diff, yoke and input on ebay from a kit breaker. Oh well, replacing with a stock one for now, but at least will have full spare diff and yoke.
That's sometimes the best way to go because next time it could be your diff ring gear and you'll have the spare ready on hand lol
 
They have recently changed the size of the input gears with the newest version. If you order from Jenny’s make sure they are the same size as the ones that you have. The new ones are shorter because the new slippers use that black plastic locknut now and they needed room. You also have to replace the spur gear housing because that has changed slightly as well. I went through all of this with my Kraton 4S. At one point they had discontinued the longer inputs but are now making them again. Fortunately warranty covered all new parts to get everything to fit.
 
They have recently changed the size of the input gears with the newest version. If you order from Jenny’s make sure they are the same size as the ones that you have. The new ones are shorter because the new slippers use that black plastic locknut now and they needed room. You also have to replace the spur gear housing because that has changed slightly as well. I went through all of this with my Kraton 4S. At one point they had discontinued the longer inputs but are now making them again. Fortunately warranty covered all new parts to get everything to fit.
I have a metal slipper setup, don't use the plastic nut. But even if a little shorter, it is fine. Will still fit in the housing same amount if you have the plastic nut or not - will just be a little room with no nut in it inside the slipper.
 
I have a metal slipper setup, don't use the plastic nut. But even if a little shorter, it is fine. Will still fit in the housing same amount if you have the plastic nut or not - will just be a little room with no nut in it inside the slipper.
Drive shaft will be short then, there will be too much wiggle room.
 
Drive shaft will be short then, there will be too much wiggle room.
Not following that thought process.

The driveshaft is connected to the non-nut side (if you have the slipper with the nut), and places pressure on the slipper/spur assembly keeping it pushed to the back side of the housing. The slipper will still protrude out the front of the housing, so driveshaft connection will still be the same?
 
Slipper and motor assembly will have too much room to move. If I’m wrong please let me know.
 
I am currently using the metal diff upgrades in my 3s typhon also added the upgraded cvd drive shafts on the older 4s kraton slipper that has no plastic nut. I tossed in my 6s smart esc and motor and man is it nuts on 6s........🙀🙀
I am currently using the metal diff upgrades in my 3s typhon also added the upgraded cvd drive shafts on the older 4s kraton slipper that has no plastic nut. I tossed in my 6s smart esc and motor and man is it nuts on 6s........🙀🙀
With that setup everything meshes just fine
975EF3D7-87F8-4330-9337-30F3E95A0C31.jpeg
 
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Diff and main gear look perfect.
When I stripped my input gear, I thought the diff was OK. I ordered a new diff housing while I was at it anyway. As I installed the new input gear, I realized that the diff was chewed up as well. Not as bad as the input gear, but still too much to work. So I was glad I had the diff as well.

If you want to be sure about the condition of the diff, you should compare it with the other one. Consider though that it may be worn as well and not as good as a new one.
 
When I stripped my input gear, I thought the diff was OK. I ordered a new diff housing while I was at it anyway. As I installed the new input gear, I realized that the diff was chewed up as well. Not as bad as the input gear, but still too much to work. So I was glad I had the diff as well.

If you want to be sure about the condition of the diff, you should compare it with the other one. Consider though that it may be worn as well and not as good as a new one.
I now have a full metal diff and input gear with new yoke so all good. Bought some new HD input gears, and have the old diff built with a new input gear as a spare for the front, or for my typhon 3s. So ready no matter what now!
 
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